delay accessory for cold starts

I know the original poster may be past this already, but why wouldn't turning menu 3 option 10 to off not accomplish what he needs.

This turns ACC power off during wait to start.  So even though it is not a diesel, the ACC will remain off until the vehicle cranks.

Why the need to cut more wires and add another timer?

From the 5904 manual

10. Accessory during Diesel Start Delay

1. On: the Accessory outputs (H3/3 high current and H2/22 low current) will be ON during diesel start delay

2. Off: the Accessory outputs (H3/3 high current and H2/22 low current) will be OFF during diesel start delay

So whether the start delay is based off of the wire or the delay it should leave ACC off.  Accidentally turned it off when installing a 951 into my Acura and freaked out when I didn't have any ACC the first time I tried to RS.

So I know it works with the 15 sec delay and assume it would work with the option set to WTS wire. It just will not bring up the ACC until the unit tries to start.

Well I assumed since the ACC is shut off during crank already, that would be the end result.  Maybe my sentence was not clear.

So if the RS does not power the ACC until the delay is over (which could be instantly with it set to WTS wire right?)  and the RS cranks immediately after the delay, then I would expect the behavior of the car to have no ACC until after crank.

Not so?  Just trying to understand

When I set it to off on my unit, the ACC never came up. Now I had other issues at the time so the car would crank but not start, so I did not pay close attention to what happened after crank, but assume that it would have brought the ACC up after it started.

When i changed to the new battery, it helped a lot, the failures were less, the battery voltage drops are no longer dipping into 8.x volts.. 

All tach learning was/is done in warm garage. I did try programming it at 1200RPM, and getting even fewer failures.  After reading your posts, i decided to learn the tach at even a higher rpm: 1500 RPM, and the pass 3 days has been good, no failures whatsoever.  i guess 1200 is good for some cars, but with this fully loaded van, a higher RPM is required.  Waiting for some really cold days to confirm if this is the end of the saga.

I still don't understand the technical part of how learning a tach at a higher RPM extendeds the crank time?