Easycar E7b, 2010 Kia Forte

Hi I am really hoping you can help me out. I have an easycar E772AS, its like the E7B I am having problem with the remote start. I have it in reservation mode and when i try remote start it just flashes 6 times (hood open) but yet there is no hood sensor for this unit. Also how you install the clutch bypass? Any help will be appreciated Thanks

Hi, pleas help me! I'm not able to program the pin. I Don't understand the manual. Please tell me exactly how to program. Br, Janos

javascript:AddSmileyIcon('')im not able to get my Easycar E3-B to work.. i managed to get the car started through remote... but the push button start returns error with single parking light flash.(engine on error in the table of errrors in manual) my car is a 2008 mitsubishi lancer (auto) here is the detailed connections list i have done.. some connections are temporarly not connected since needed to test the main functions i have connected only the sensor wires to enable the push start and the remote start functions (please correct me if im wrong anywhere) CN1 --- 1.(yellow) --- starter wire in the vehicle direction 2.(white) --- not connected since no ignition 2 in my car 3.(green) --- ignition wire in my ignition switch harness 4.(RED / white) --- +12 volt supply 5.(blue) --- output to accessory wire going in the vehicle direction 6.(red) --- +12 volt supply note:i havnt connected the relay for the starter kill CN2 --- connected only ground with int : 1-5 connect (without door motor) CN3 --- 1.(yellow) - door unlock 2.(green) - door lock 3.(violet) - not connected since not required for testing 4.(gray) - not connected 5.(brown) - not connected 6.(white) - not connected (listens to the relay trigger to count the flashes) 7.(orange) - not connected 8.(blue) - not connected 9.(violet) --- bypass module not connected cause the key is in the keyhole or kept near the keyhole.. 10.(black) --- connected to a ground (-) CN4 --- 1.(green) ---------not connected (engine running sensing set to noise) since my tach wire is reading 12 volts before the start of car and 14 volts when the car is started the unit doesnt start car since the alternator line needs less than 5 volts before start and 7-14v after start of car) DOUBT:( --- how does the unit sense the electrical noise without connecting this wire!! my remote start works without connecting this wire,.. 2.(brown) +parking light input / lock input --------------- not connected 3.(yellow) (+) foot brake input --------------------------- foot brake input +12v when stepped on foot brake 4.(red) (+) door trigger input ---------------------------- door triggerinput +5v when door is closed 5.(RED / black) (-)door trigger input ----------------------- not connected because 4 is connected 6.(white) (-) parking brake /hand brake ------------------- connected to +12 volt temporarly to immitate parking brake engaged 7.(+) acc input to keyox ---------------------------------- connected to acc wire in the ignition harness that goes to the keybox side 8.(ORANGE / black) preheating light input ------------------- not connected 9.( violet/black) trunk trigger input --------------------- connected to +12 volt to immitate trunk closed THE JUMPER IN THE UNIT IS CUT --- auto transmission switch 1 set to   -- NOISE switch 2 set to OFF -- LOW ------------------------------------------------------------------------ connected cn5(easy door lock)(knock pad) ,cn7(antenna),cn8(start button) ,cn10(lf module) cn6 (shock sensor) -- not connected cause not required for testing the push button and remote start) cn9 --not connected cause not required for testing the push button and remote start --------- i registered key on the knock pad (i think :( cause its confusing ) when i knock and input the deafult 1-1-1-1 code nothin happens..:( but after fiddling with it remote starter started working which makes me assume that code is registered.. any idea how to reset the code???

Hi all, same problem, installed E8-B with Main unit M-7700 B. Pretty much the same issues, can't push start, flashes code 3, did not knock set password, remotes does not function either, anyone faced with this issue? should I register them first??? manual says press push start button 4 times to register after signal lights flashes once, then press 1 button on the remote, signal flashes 2 times. Seems like it does not work, anyone can help? Luckily I did not cut any wire yet, so I disconnected main unit, put all wires back to their places and assembled vehicle interior back. Will try next week-ends. Car is Toyota LC Prado with immobilizer system. By the way who knows where to get alternator sensing and also how to connect (where) that relay on green wire from CN1? any drawing will be much appreciated.Elik

Hello Elik, Pablot, 3scamry, anybody that can help, I have the same issue. Were you ever able to get it figured out? I posted here: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=134101&KW=tjnevis Kreg has posted about fixing some of the issues, but I still need help with the remote start on both cars and push button on one car. Thanks for your help!

Hi guys, I figured it out. The most important connections are CN1, CN2, CN3, CN4 CN1: they got it all wrong, at least many contradictory information found, back of the unit says one thing, manual other, site and useless support third..... so I had to disasemble the unit to figure it all out! here is it: CN1: PW1 (red) commutate to ACC(blue) by clicking once, then to IG2, this is where ON on the push button lit, from other hand PW2 commutate to IG1. if you press brake pedal (there for for unit to recognize this push, you must connect brake indication wire to CN4 wire) and push bbutton, all commutated wires also commutate to START(yellow) on CN1, same time disconnecting ACC, so I had 2 START wires, there for I had to use relay to commutate othe one too, separatelly! this is very important as otherwise I was getting Check Engine error! Door open indication and emergency brake wire (white on CN4) is also important! On CN4, green wire must be connected to the alternator! so when engine gets started it receives voltage! this is important! The rest of the wires simply useless for my vehicle. In the future I'll connect mirror folding from CN9, that is it. Do not forget to cut ACC wire from keybox and make sure kewy is in the keybox and turned to ACC position (otherwise engine will not start giving errors!) blue wire from CN4 needs to be connected to ACC wire keybox side! Also you must register remotes first as those comes unregistered, then 4 digit pin. Process of registration pretty straight forward and can be found in youtube! and that is it basically Very challenging for me was to find alternator and door(central lock)wires, but you can refer to the service manuals to find them!Elik

Does anyone have any E7-B or E8-B brain units? I have an E7-B, but a professional installer told me there is an issue with the unit I have - apparently there are 500 units circulating with a 'hood open' issue. Anyway, if you have these brain units to sell, how much would you sell them for?

I have one e7-b, never installed. You need only the brain unit?

Dear Genexis and all, this is new user having head ache with E7 B. I have spent 2 days, but couldn't get push button works. first, both remote and push button didn't work, then I manage to code the knock sensor, suddently remote start was working. but push button is not working but chirping 3 times as error code. Door switch is correct, coz I can see actual close/open positions on LCD. and parking brake is grounded, trunk release is not use, but I have tried connect together with door switch. either way it is not working. and I suspect about knock sensor. I input the 4 digit code as Instructions, it seem ok coz I can see response from led, after 4 digit, controller make the confirmation sound. However, I wan unable to lock/unlock by knocking on my code. After 4 digit, some led running, but there is no activity on locking/unlocking. Is there something wrong? Guys, please advise. thanks in advance.

tjnevis wrote: Does anyone have any E7-B or E8-B brain units? I have an E7-B, but a professional installer told me there is an issue with the unit I have - apparently there are 500 units circulating with a 'hood open' issue. Anyway, if you have these brain units to sell, how much would you sell them for?

i may have one. let me look around.