2002-2007 Trailblazer Remote Start Pictorial

That $850 for a professional installation probably doesn't seem that bad now. You have to remember when you pay a professional they typically have years of experience and thousands and thousands of dollars of tools to properly diagnose and fix issues that pop up from time to time. More importantly, they also are insured to protect them and your vehicle. That being said, what were you doing when you blew the fuse? Obviously from the extent of the damage something had to have happened. If you can pinpoint exactly what you were doing at the time you may be able to work backwards from there. Get a vehicle wiring diagram that shows fuses and find the fuse that protects the fuse you blew (if there is one) and check that. It is very possible that this is only a fuse issue. However, it could also be a Body Control Module issue. Checking the proper fuses with an ohm meter is going to be the easiest way to rule out fuses. If it isn't a fuse issue try to find a common connection to all the things that have quit working (ie they are all controlled by the same module, or they all share the same grounding point, etc.).Kevin Pierson

Ok, here's what I "know" so far lol megafuse-ok fuse box connected to bcm is getting power every fuse that should have constant 12+, does every fuse that should have power with ign on, does what works- brake lights turn signals power adjustable seats horn dash lights windshield wipers gear shift location identifier (name?) what doesn't work headlights park/running lights interior lights radio (button lights come one, but nothing else) power door locks power windows sunroof I hear no clicking from any of the relays anywhere (fuse box under the hood or by the bcm) Could it be a bcm issue? I can't help but wonder if there are several independent things going on at once. The security light was on before the no crank/no start issue, if I remember correctly the door locks were working for a short while (I was excited to finally get some results so I can't say for certain) the DBall bypass was programmed to my vehicle at the shop where I bought it yesterday, got home, went through the proper programming steps (led feedback was per the instructions) then after a while I noticed the led indicator on the bypass was no longer coming on. Sorry for leaving this part out yesterday, I was in mini-panic mode while I was posting on here and trying to find a way to get to work. Thanks guys, I know this is getting to be a headache and hats off to KPierson for getting back with a reply within hours of the pm...can't thank you enough Chris

Check (continuity setting with a DMM) all the under hood "big" fuse. You have multi circuit failings. Is there power to the lighting feed? Is there power, constant and ACC to the radio?

My advice is to pick one function and troubleshoot it. One of the easier ones listed is the headlights. Get a schematic for the headlights - there should be a switch driving a relay. Determine if the relay is firing. If it isn't, the problem is on the control side, if it is the problem is on the power side. I agree with Howie, there is most likely a "main" fuse somewhere. At least let's hope there is!Kevin Pierson

The best way to test a standard  fuse is to remove it and do a "static" test with a Digital Multi Meter set to the lowestresistance scale.  Looking for zero ohms.Soldering is fun!

I'm still at work, but the relay I used for my drl killer isn't getting power (no clicking of the relay) as far as the rest, I'll either check tonight after work, or first thing in the am

KPierson wrote: My advice is to pick one function and troubleshoot it. One of the easier ones listed is the headlights. Get a schematic for the headlights - there should be a switch driving a relay. Determine if the relay is firing. If it isn't, the problem is on the control side, if it is the problem is on the power side. I agree with Howie, there is most likely a "main" fuse somewhere. At least let's hope there is!

and if it isn't? I'm assuming a bcm replacement would be the other option? any idea what kind of $ we're talking there? I called a used parts dealer to see if they had a bcm and how much, but I was otw to work and didn't have the # he needed to verify, calling back in the a.m.

Forget BCM, start testing. Someone has to be a real klutz to destroy a whole BCM.

Howie I've seen it happen. Someone shorted out a non protected (-) output on a Nissan BCM. It actually burnt up all the traces on the ground plane of the circuit board leaving virtually nothing on the board grounded.     As far as it not being a fuse, the next step would be to figure out what all the lost functions have in common. If they are all controlled by the BCM then obviously you would suspect the BCM is damaged. I am honestly not to familiar with GMs and their electrical systems. You'll need a factory manual with wiring diagrams most likely to trace everything back. In the Nissan/Infiniti world a BCM is around $400. The catch though is since most cars these days have CAN busses the dealership may need to register the new BCM to the car. In many cases simply swapping the part without dealership programming won't work. Again, this is based off my experience with Nissan/Infiniti vehicles.Kevin Pierson

Some testing and troubleshooting is definitely in order.  Not sure what happened, but it seems that there is an additional relay in the DRL circuit and possibly some cut / re-connected wires where the XK06 w/PKG7 was installed.  The reason being, if something is still wired wrong or shorted out, a new BCM will be damaged  upon power up.  Still hoping that it is only a fuse.

KP is right about going back over everything you did in sequence to help determine what went wrong and when.  At the very least, remove the remote starter and restore all wiring back to original condition.

Soldering is fun!