2012 toyota tacoma 4204 w/evo all

Ok, I just installed the same setup on my wifes 2009 altima and just wanted you guys to review my connections to prevent me from making errors. I've looked through https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~132417~PN~1~TPN~1

H1/1 (red) (+) 12vdc constant input > Fuse panel feed.

H1/2 (black) (-) chassis ground > chasis groundH1/3 (brown) (-) 200mA horn honk output > GREEN/ red by fuse panelH1/4 (WHITE/ brown) light flash isolation wire-87a light flash relay > not needed

H1/5 (white) pin 30 of light flash relay > green by fuse panel H1/6 (orange) 500mA ground when armed output > not needed H2/1 (pink/white) (-)200mA flex relay control output > not needed H2/2 (BLACK/ white) (-) neutral safety input > vehicle ground H2/3 (blue/white) (-) 200mA 2nd status / rear defogger output >not needed H2/4 (GREEN/ black) (-) 200mA factory alarm disarm output > not needed H2/5 (RED / white) (-) 200mA trunk release output > not needed H2/6 (green) (-) door input > not needed H2/7 (BLACK / YELLOW) (-) 200mA dome light output > not needed H2/8 (empty) H2/9 (dark blue) (-) 200mA status output > GWR to EVO-ALL 20pin/ Dark blue H2/10 (pink) (-) 200mA ignition 1 output > Not needed H2/11 (WHITE/ black) (-) 200mA aux 3 output > Not needed H2/12 (violet) (+) door input > Not needed H2/13 (WHITE/ violet) (-) 200mA aux 1 output > Not needed H2/14 (violet/black) (-) 200mA aux 2 output > Not needed H2/15 (ORANGE / black) (-) 200mA aux 4 output > Not needed H2/16 (brown) (+) brake shutdown input > Blue by fuse panel H2/17 (gray) (-) hood pin input (nc or no) > supplied hoop in H2/18 (violet / YELLOW) (-) 200mA starter output > Not needed H2/19 (blue) factory horn input (use jumper to set ploarity) > Not needed H2/20 (gray/black) (-) diesel wait to start input > N/A H2/21 (WHITE/ blue) activation input > Not needed H2/22 (orange) (-) 200mA accessory output > Not needed H2/23 (violet/white) tachometer input > BLACK/ white at obd II connector H2/24 (GREEN / WHITE) (-) 200mA factory alarm arm output > Not needed H3/1 (pink) (+) ignition 1 input/output > BLACK/ red on ign harnessH3/2 (RED / white) +12v fused (30A) ignition 2/flex relay input > WHITE/ red ign harnessH3/3 (orange) (+) accessory output > WHITE/ green ign harness H3/4 (violet) (+) starter output > GREEN/ black ign harness H3/5 (red) +12v fused (30A) ignition 1 input > WHITE/ red ign harness H3/6 (pink/white) ignition 2/flex relay output > blue / YELLOW ign harness H3/7 (pink/black) flex relay input 87a (if required) of flex relay > Not needed H3/8 (RED / black) +12v fused (30A) accessory/stater input > WHITE/ red ign harness 1 (blue) (-) 500mA unlock output > Unlock grey by driver kick 2 (empty) 3 (green) (-) 500mA lock output > lock blue/white by driver kick

evo-all is easy no need to review. 

 

Owner/Builder/Fabricator

Syner G Racing LLC

EST. 2003

V-FAB LLC

EST. 2006

Looks like you got most of it. You need a additional relay for the 2nd starter controlled by H2/18 connected to the BLACK/ white ( {add a fuse to the Pin 86 / 87 +12V connection} pin 86 and 87 to 12V+, pin 85 to H2/18(starter output), pin 30 to vehicle starter 2 wire (BLACK/ white), 87a unused)

ssg of america wrote: 1 (blue) (-) 500mA unlock output > Unlock grey by driver kick 2 (empty) 3 (green) (-) 500mA lock output > lock blue/white by driver kick

Power Lock blue/white - driver kick, gray 10 pin plug, pin 6 Notes: This wire is only needed if the door locks do not function with the aftermarket system while the vehicle is running. All other times just use the factory alarm arm wire. Power Unlock gray - driver kick, gray 10 pin plug, pin 7 Notes: This wire is only needed if the door locks do not function with the aftermarket system while the vehicle is running. All other times just use the factory alarm disarm wire. Factory Alarm Arm purple (driver door key cylinder lock) - driver kick, gray 10 pin plug, pin 4 Factory Alarm Disarm GREEN/ black (driver door key cylinder unlock) double - driver kick, gray 10 pin plug, pin 8 Disarm No Unlock use keysense Don't forget to set the Viper internal jumper to negative for the parking light output. Should be good for Automatic Trans.

Thanks Lurch228...so:

1 (blue) (-) 500mA unlock output > Unlock/Disarm GREEN/ black driver kick 

2 (empty) 3 (green) (-) 500mA lock output > Lock/Arm Purple in driver kick

I found this in regards to the lock/unlock during running. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~132417~PN~2~TPN~2#664773

and https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~132417~PN~2~TPN~2#664914

I think Im planning to pick up the parking light at the fuse panel and its a positive so I should set the fuse to match...correct?

Also, for the relay...Hook up a fused +12v to 87, +12v fused to 86, BLACK/ white on ign harness to 30, H2/18 to 85. (can I use the WHITE/ red in the ign harness for the +12v or should I pull it from the fuse panel)

Owner/Builder/Fabricator

Syner G Racing LLC

EST. 2003

V-FAB LLC

EST. 2006

Correct on the locks Viper lock and unlock to arm disarm wires of vehicle. If you have 2 12v constant wires alway use both and seperate the H3 Red and the RED / White. Yes on the parking lights as long as the load is under 10A. Otherwise go (-) and use a relay. IE additional driving/fog lights on the circuit, or plan too add any. If you are using a relay and relay plug harness then connect 87,86 to same vehicle +12v wire point. If you are using a relay only with no relay plug harness, using crimp on spades run the heavier gauge to the 87, (and add a smaller gauge to the 87 spade before crimpnig and loop over to 86 spade). If using the Vehicle WHITE/ Blue for the H3/2 then also connect the additional 87/86 relay to the VehicleWHITE/ Blue. Remember to use a fuse for every wire added to the vehicles +12v constant wires, the 87,86 can be tied together to the fuse and the fuse connected to vehicle.

Just an update for those that may reference this for their install.

Everything is hooked up as above and working fine and

everything functions fully. I depinned the unused wires for a very clean install and am pretty happy with it so far.

my two imobilizer wires were at the ECU behind the glove box, arm and disarm wires where in the driver kick panel, the tach signal was at the obd II, lights/brake/horn/12v where at the fuse panel, the grounds were right under in a empty hole just added a bolt, and all of the ignition wires with relay were at the steering column.

Just a caveat...make sure you keep your wires off the heater core lines...they get way hotter than I'm used to, I plan to wrap them with some DEI heat foil that have left over from a turbo install.

Owner/Builder/Fabricator

Syner G Racing LLC

EST. 2003

V-FAB LLC

EST. 2006

Good to hear.