ads aldl n15 en not programming

kreg, I found the problem! But first, as per your last reply I checked Starter1, Starter2 and Ignition with a DMM. They are all good. But I still had/have this brake issue. The R/S doesn't see/receive a "proper" brake signal from the bypass. Even after programming the bypass and ignition being ON. I always had to use a jumper wire from Starter1 (at R/S [which is connected to the brake switch]) to brake input at R/S. That's the only way I get a brake signal to the R/S. Figured I would try a remote start with that setup. Voila it worked. Started very smoothly. Could the bypass be damaged or is it the software on it? I guess I can keep the jumper wire in place for now. Is that potentially harmful to the whole setup. But that's not the solution. Help. "Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."

-unknown

Never mind. After writing the previous post, I went back to the car. Wouldn't start with or without jumper wire from brake switch to brake input at R/S. Reprogrammed the bypass and got one successful remote start (this time without jumper wire). After that, nothing worked. Tried reprogramming the bypass, with jumper wire, without jumper. Nothing! Totally confused."Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."

-unknown

This is a bit hard to explain but...

On a standard R/S install ( non-PTS vehicle, no fancy CAN bypass module ), if the remote starter saw a BrakePedal depressed input signal it would not attempt or abort a remote start attempt.  This remote start type of failureactually has a diagnostic code ( the Parking Lights flashing 3 times ) with your AutoStart unit. 

Your PTS vehicle needs to see the Brake Pedal depressed to allow a remote start.   A bit of a Catch 22.  If the R/S unit

used/monitored that same Brake Pedal wire that the Starter1 output wire was connected to,  the R/S would "see" the Brake pedal depressed during cranking and would not allow the remote start.    That is the reason that the ADS bypass generated Brake Status Output signal is used to supply the R/S with the Brake Status input.  Looks like the bypass module uses the AutoStarts' GWR signal and the Starter2 signal to know when the engine is remote starting/cranking to dis-allow the Brake pedal depressed signal thru to the AutoStarts' Brake input wire.  

Jumping the vehicles' Brake wire to the remote starts' Brake Status input wire defeats the Type 1 wiring and could/should

mess-up the remote start sequence on your PTS car.  Obviously iDatalink wrote the NI5 firmware to support PTS vehicles & made up the install wiring diagram and tested it on many actual Nissan's.  If there was an issue, it would have been found andcorrected by now.

Not to sound like an iDatalink shill, but I have total confidence in iDatalink modules and follow their wiring guides and

programming procedures to the letter.  ( Don't have that same confidence with D2D yet, so I still go W2W...)  Perhaps thebypass module is bad or damaged.  Personally, I would triple check my wiring and connections to ensure they wereall good and exactly as per the supplied diagram, re-flash the bypass module and then set the install mode and programto the vehicle.  Next would be a new bypass module, same procedure.

Your AutoStart unit has some programming to support PTS vehicles, however I think the iDatalink bypass handles

everything on its' own so it is probably best to leave Mode 4, Function 5 at the Default / Disabled setting.

Soldering is fun!

I kept an eye on the bypass during a remote start sequence. The led turns solid green, red, green again and then off. What could that mean?"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."

-unknown

Think blinking Green during remote start is good.  Never come across your LED color / blink pattern before.  Still think a module reflash with the latest firmware is the best bet ( or even another module ).Soldering is fun!

I actually got it reflashed last weekend. Latest firmware 1.4. I think I will try to hardwire the tach and see if that does anything."Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."

-unknown

Progress! I reset the bypass and remote. Reprogrammed both and voila, the car remote starts. But only if the OEM fob is inside the car. Without the fob, the R/S goes through the same starting sequence, except the orange key warning light stays on for the duration of the (unsuccessful)start. I assume it's a key sense issue even though the bypass programmed successfully to the smart key. What do I do to fix this? Regarding the early tach error I used to get. I am pretty sure that's because I didn't connect the tach wire to an actual source in the engine bay. But yet did a tach learning or at least did the programming steps for it."Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."

-unknown

It's possible that the AutoStart doesn't like the ADS Tach output or that output is bad.

When you Factory Reset the bypass module, did you set the Install Mode to Standard ( W2W, two blinks ) and lock it in?

At this point, does everything else work?  Door locks, trunk pop, etc?  ( Aside from the smart key proximity issue.)

Think I would put a DMM on the ADS Yellow (+) Keysense Output wire during a remote start attempt.  There should be no "bonus" diode on this wire ( it would need to be reversed anyway ).   Also verify / test that you have the right Keysense wire ( Yellow at Pin 11 of the keyport plug ).

Soldering is fun!

I think the tach output is fine. Actually it remote starts pretty smoothly with VTS mode (as long as the fob is somewhere inside the car). Yes, bypass is set to w2w (two blinks) and locks in (with key fob inserted, one push on start button the led turns red. Second push the led turns solid green and after two seconds turns off). All other functions work fine. Don't have a diode on the keysense wire. Will check for correct wire and with DMM. Thanks for your guidance through this process kreg."Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."

-unknown

Just checked the keysense wire. During remote start sequence the DMM shows the voltage going up from 0.2V DC to 15V DC and down to a continuous 9.5V DC. After the failed start the keysense light is lit and the info center below the speedometer shows NO KEY. Does that mean the bypass doesn't read the smartkey properly?"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."

-unknown