transponder bypass for 2006 corolla

yannyfreak, Here's a little information that might help you. From back when these cars were new: http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/showthread.php?t=10739

Thanks Chris there are a couple handy pointers on that thread!yannyfreak

Here is a proposed list of my install including the things I’m still questioning. I have familiarized myself with the cars wiring and I am adept at electrical testing as well as soldering all connections. The remote start side is where I’m lacking. So again please excuse the novice questions! Everyone has been great so far!! I am installing a Python 414 one-way remote start in a 2006 Corolla using a flashlogic FLCAN bypass. The Flashlogic FLCAN is the same as the ADS AL CA with DBI firmware as stated earlier by Kreg. Python connections Plugging in the two pin connector for neutral safety switch to the control module and switching it on (any need to have this switch easily accessible?) Plugging in control center and mounting it to windshield Using D2D connector from control module to transponder bypass and using no other connectors other than the three listed later R/S horn input polarity jumper set to (-) R/S H 1/5 pin on R/S is taped off??? Main Harness 6-pin connector H 1/1 red to 12+ white 15A H 1/2 black to chassis ground H 1/3 brown to gr/y @ horn switch H 1/4 wh/br light flash to ??? (pin 87a light flash relay) H 1/5 wh to ??? (pin 30 light flash relay)      Also don’t know how to land fuse on control module for light flash polarity H 1/6 orange ground when armed ?? (not sure) Door Lock Harness 3- connector H1 blue to (-) unlock to blue/y 10-pin driver kick H2 not used H3 green (-) lock to green 10-pin driver kick Aux Harness 24-pin connector H 2/2 bl/wh (-) neutral safety input to chassis ground with H ½ H 2/16 brown (+) brake shutdown input to gr/wh on brake pedal switch H 2/23 violet/wh tach input to black pin 5 of ecm behind glove box Remote Start Harness 8pin connector H 3/1 pink to BLACK/ wh ign #1 H 3/2 RED / wh to 12+ white 15A H 3/3 orange to blue/red acc. H 3/4 violet to red starter H 3/5 red to 12+ white 15A H 3/6 pink/wh to BLACK/ y ign #2 H 3/7 pink/black flex not used H 3/8 RED / black to 12+ white 15A ** Not sure if I’ve covered needed door and light hookups for a remote start** ADS bypass D2D plug connected Wh/bl keysense to blue/black ignition Wh to chassis ground Pink to BLACK/ wh ign with R/S H 3/1 GREEN/ red code to ign pin #4 Gray/red txct to ign pin #5 yannyfreak

Setting the parking light polarity is set on the brain. On top is a small cover. Remove the cover and install a 10amp mini fuse in the proper position for your car. Center pin is common. One is (+) and the other is (-).  Fuse should have been suppiled with the Viper.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

Thanks Smokeman. I have located it and the mini fuse is supplied. I'm still researching which wires to land for this and determining polarity. It looks like the blue and green wires on the 10-pin driver kick but I'm still reading on thisyannyfreak

For the Pythons four +12V constant connections, DEI lists two wires at the ignition switch harness. The White is 25 Amps and there should be a Black rated at 15 Amps. Additionally, Toyota typically has a very thick White or Black wire in a separate one-pin connector at the fuse box that is rated at over 100 Amps that can be used for +12V constant power.Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg.I guess when i get started with the install I'll simply see which 12+ is most accessible. Is anyone comfortable with giving me a thumbs up for my entire wiring plan including answering those last couple questions i posted? Mostly....am i missing anything especially with light and door lock wiring?? I could land turn signals, etc but i'm not sure which lights are normally wired for indication when doing a R/S    yannyfreak

yannyfreak, the wires you list look pretty good. I'll try to make a few comments on them, section by section, using the names you made for each section. Python connections: You would turn the toggle switch off before making repairs under the hood, to prevent the car from starting and injuring you. If this were a customer's car, you'd want to consider drilling a hole, mounting the switch, and explaining its operation to the customer. Since it's your own car, I think you'd be OK to zip-tie it under the dash where you can reach it. I'm pretty sure that plug is taped off so the factory knows which units are new and which are used. Just pull the tape off. No idea about that horn polarity; that's new to me. But the horn wire in the car is negative. Main Harness: WHITE/ brown not used on your car (used for some cars where the light wire has to be cut in half and routed through the remote starter) Orange ground-when-armed: Are you planning on installing a starter-kill relay to make the car harder to steal and/or as anti-grind so you can't grind the starter when the remote starter is on? That's what this is for. So you'd either connect it to Pin 86 of a starter kill relay, or cut it short and don't use it for anything. White parking light wire and the fuse: Your car has a negative-trigger parking light wire at the switch in the steering column, and there's also a positive wire (green) running down the driver's door sill to the rear of the car. Your choice as to which way you do it, but the fuse position must match. (Or, simply explained: If the fuse is in the negative position, the white wire puts out a ground. If it's in the positive position, it puts out a positive.) Door Lock Harness: Yes, you have it right. Tip A: Test these wires while turning the key in the outside of the driver's door. Tip B: Program your Python for 0.4 second lock pulses and the locks will unlock faster. Also set unit for double-pulse unlock if you want to unlock all the doors at once, or leave this setting alone to retain driver's-priority unlocking. Aux Harness: Brake is in the driver's door sill going to the rear of the car. Easier for you, and no chance your wire will get caught up in the pedals if it comes loose. In the door sill, you should find one green (positive parking lights) and two GREEN / WHITEs (must test; only one is brake). I usually just get my lights and brake here together. Tach: I do this another way. The black trim around the instrument cluster is held in by one fake plastic screw at the top, and then it just pulls out. (As with any car, only pull on plastic panels when the car is warm. I would let car run with heater on maximum for a little while before working). Once you get that plastic out, you don't even need to remove the cluster or anything. The wires come out of the top of it, on the left side. You'll see many black wires in the harness. But off to the left side, find a RED / white. (This is door trigger if you were to install an alarm, but you don't need it today.) Anyway, the black wire just to the left of the RED / white is tach. Remote Start Harness 8pin connector Everything there is correct. By the way, the blue/red accessory wire just powers up non-essentials like the radio, mirrors, and cigarette lighter. I like to leave this un-connected to keep the radio quiet during remote start. Up to you. And yes, the only door and lights connections you need for remote starter is locks and parking lights. If you were installing an alarm, you'd want to find door trigger and trunk pin, but you don't need it. ADS bypass Yes, you have that all right. A few comments though: D2D has been a disaster and works when it feels like it. Might want to leave your Python blue/white wire long until you know the install is good, then cut it short if/when D2D works. The 2-pin connector with keysense, you'll notice the other wire is WHITE/ black. This is a ground wire; connect your white here if you want to. And something to make those TX/RX wires easier to get right: Pin 3 is always empty. This will help you from counting pins backwards. So, even if you don't know which way to count the pins, it should go like this: 1: wire 2: wire 3: empty 4: connect GREEN/ red 5: connect gray/red P.S. Was this already mentioned upthread? The 2-pin keysense connector is RIGHT next to the ignition wires. Put your key in the ignition, open the door, unplug the connector and make sure the door chime stops.

Late entry - slow typist...  more of the same

While your location is not shown, I am assuming North America due to the parts source.  This is important

becuase of the Parking Light vs Hazards install difference.  ( You're use of "land" vs tag or connect has meconcerned.)

Here is a link to the Python 414 Install Guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1168

On Page 5 it shows the Parking Light Jumper/Fuse location and setting positions.  You might needa flashlight to see the markings on the PCB once you get the cover off.  For your 2006 Corolla, set it to (-) and connect the H1/5 White wire to the GREEN / WHITE (-) Parking Light wire at the headlight switch connector in the steering column.  The H1/4 WHITE/ Brown wire is not used.

H1/6 is not used.

H2/17 Hood Pin is an important safety feature and should be installed using the hood pin switchsupplied in the Python kit.The  Door Triggers are not required for your Auto Trans install.

Believe everything else looks OK.

Soldering is fun!

Thank you Chris and thanks again Kreg. You guys are great! I'm going to review all this info today and see if I have it straight. Kreg...yes I am in Pennsylvania. Also I used land as a general term in my ignorance to mean plug in the fuse....it was late :)yannyfreak