remote start, 07 tacoma

Your not wasting my time and you've explained perfectly well to me why you have a Bitwriter. Look down on that OBD ll socket from the wire end. Pin 9 will be to the right on its own. Again Toyotas show more consistency with wire locations than virtually any other manufacturer, just about every Toyota, Lexus and some others, BMW my Rover, Range Rover all use the same pin 9 convention. The colour may vary but the position is always the same. Again you weren't prepared to test and Kregg had to explain how.

kreg357 wrote: You can use a Digital Multi Meter to locate / verify your Tach wire.  Set the DMM to 20V AC, connect the Red test lead to the suspect wire and the Black test lead to chassis ground.  With the engine running, you should see around 1 to 2 Volts and that will rise with RPM's.  Hooking the Vipers Tach wire to the wrong wire won't hurt the car, you just won't get a successful Tach learn.  Running in Tach Mode is definitely the way to go, especially in cold climates

None of the wires in my OBD-II read less than 6 volts on AC and none of them would fluctuate with throttle either...

An earlier installation by Kregg showing the wire position, colour will vary. Look at Car Security and Convenience Pictorials, Toyota Yaris by Kregg, last photo.

Worse case scenario, you can always use the non-common color wire at any F.I.   Same DMM procedure.Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: Worse case scenario, you can always use the non-common color wire at any F.I.   Same DMM procedure.

Well I finally figured out which wire it was and did the proper tach learn procedure and everything. It still doesn't want to fire up in the first try. It'll keep turning over without ever starting until I finally deactivate it, then when I activate it right back it fires right up. Why would it not want to fire the first time?

To start with OBD II convention protocols make pin 16 a constant 12V+ NONE of the others will read above 5V so check out your DMM. Pin 9 is a manufacturer choice, part of the EOBD (enhanced) system, it just so happens that certain pins aren't used in the protocols and BMW and Toyota by co-incidence both use that pin. Certain pins, 6 and 12 are for ISO CAN, others for J CAN and GM single wire. There are 5 CAN data systems in use with about 3 million lines of code on a modern car. For comparison, the tank turret on any of the modern western tanks, M1, Leo Challie or Merkaba have about 30 million lines of code. Now test all of your starter outputs, I think you've missed an ignition output somewhere.

howie ll wrote: To start with OBD II convention protocols make pin 16 a constant 12V+ NONE of the others will read above 5V so check out your DMM. Pin 9 is a manufacturer choice, part of the EOBD (enhanced) system, it just so happens that certain pins aren't used in the protocols and BMW and Toyota by co-incidence both use that pin. Certain pins, 6 and 12 are for ISO CAN, others for J CAN and GM single wire. There are 5 CAN data systems in use with about 3 million lines of code on a modern car. For comparison, the tank turret on any of the modern western tanks, M1, Leo Challie or Merkaba have about 30 million lines of code. Now test all of your starter outputs, I think you've missed an ignition output somewhere.

I made sure I hooked everything up exactly as both you and Kreg listed. The only left out the one wire we said didn't need to be hooked up (on the heavy gauge harness). Do you think I missed a wire on the remote start side or the truck side?

But I just tried the remote start again and it went through two 4-second crank cycles without starting, and then started within the first half second of the 3rd crank cycle. I don't get it...

Think I would put a meter on each of the H3 output wire ( plus Pin 30 of the external relay ) and monitor them during a R/S attempt.  Something isn't right.  Are all connections soldered?Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: Think I would put a meter on each of the H3 output wire ( plus Pin 30 of the external relay ) and monitor them during a R/S attempt.  Something isn't right.  Are all connections soldered?

I guess I'll pull the panel off and test each wire with the key and then make sure it's doing the exact same thing with the remote start. I just don't understand why if it will start on the 2nd or 3rd attempt, why not the first? When I use the key it fires right up? You would think if there was something wrong with the remote start it just wouldn't start at all...