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'11 nissan murano, 4205v & dlpk- no start


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tedmond 
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Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 08, 2015 at 12:42 PM / IP Logged  
Im not talking about the IPDM relay under the hood.
On the starter unit, ground the Neutral safety wire directly to ground. Plug in the switch provided to the unit, and make sure its switched to on. Personally I just snip the switch off and connect the wires together.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
slvrsky07 
Member - Posts: 43
Member spacespace
Joined: January 07, 2015
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: January 08, 2015 at 1:06 PM / IP Logged  
I've tried grounding the neutral safety wire from the remote start unit straight to chassis. I will try that once more when I get home.
slvrsky07 
Member - Posts: 43
Member spacespace
Joined: January 07, 2015
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: January 09, 2015 at 6:35 AM / IP Logged  
I got it working. It ended up being 2 issues. 1. I needed to connect the wire for neutral safety to a better ground location. 2. the under hood neutral safety relay wasn't fully activating under the hood. I replaced it with another new relay and it works!
I did have one more question. With this RS and the push to start on the Murano, I'm not sure if something else needs power activated. When I start it with the RS and then push the push to start button to ON, the car continues to run like normal. The weird thing is that some options on the navigation screen and seat settings are missing like you didn't have the car running. When I shut the car off and turn it back on without the remote start, the options are back. Any clue why? The BCM is powered the way DIRECTED ELECTRONICS designed it to work.
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 09, 2015 at 8:17 AM / IP Logged  
check your wiring if both acc are working.
personally, the dlpk was the only solution at the time for this vehicle, but the evo-all or idatalink piece is much better. The bypasses evolved so no more ipdm relay under the hood, secure takeover, less wiring, etc
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
slvrsky07 
Member - Posts: 43
Member spacespace
Joined: January 07, 2015
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: January 09, 2015 at 12:19 PM / IP Logged  
I see that now. Wished I would have known that originally. I would have went with a dball unit. I have checked both wires as they are working like the diagram shows. I'm not sure if that's something that just happens with this vehicle or if I'm pressing the start button in the car too fast or something.
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