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04 Town and country Remote start rear defroster?


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jcharley 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2016
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: January 30, 2016 at 8:06 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jcharley
Yes it did open
jcharley 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2016
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: January 30, 2016 at 8:45 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jcharley
I'm not sure what else to test. I've checked the R/S worrying harness for continuity and the wire is good.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 30, 2016 at 9:03 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
The bypass module is doing its' job.  It's not getting the signal from the R/S to open the right sliding door.  I'm not familiar with the R/S unit you are using but perhaps there is a special sequence you must follow to get that Channel to output?
Soldering is fun!
jcharley 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2016
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: January 30, 2016 at 9:12 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jcharley
Yeah I've tried several times to reprogram the remote. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. I'll keep messing with the remote. How do I test the output on the R/S to see if it's putting out the 300ma?
jcharley 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2016
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: January 30, 2016 at 9:14 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jcharley
Yeah I've tried several times to reprogram the remote. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. I'll keep messing with the remote. How do I test the output on the R/S to see if it's putting out the 300ma?
jcharley 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2016
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: January 30, 2016 at 9:15 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jcharley
Yeah I've tried several times to reprogram the remote. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. I'll keep messing with the remote. How do I test the output on the R/S to see if it's putting out the 300ma?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 30, 2016 at 9:34 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Use a Digital Multi Meter set to 20V DC.  Connect the Red test lead to +12V constant.  Connect the Black test lead to the R/S Channel output wire.  The DMM will briefly ( 0.8 sec ? ) show +12V when the output is present.         
Soldering is fun!
jcharley 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2016
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: January 30, 2016 at 11:02 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jcharley
Hey thanks for the help, I was able to reset the remote and program it from a blank state and all works now,   just gotta find that defrost wire. And if you don't mind how do I test to make sure the defrost wire is correct before I hook into it?
Thanks
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 30, 2016 at 11:11 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

I can't find any specific info on the Rear Defrost wire.  MSCGUY's info on it is probably accurate.  You would be

looking for a 12 to 14 gauge wire in the DKP area in the harness that goes into the door sill and continues to the
rear of the minivan.  I this case you are looking for a +12V presence on that wire when the Rear Defroster is ON.
DMM setup is 20V DC.  Black test lead to chassis ground.  Red test lead to suspect wire.  The DMM will read
+12V when the Defroster is ON and 0V when OFF.  Toggle it a few time to verify.

This is a high current circuit so a fused 30/40 Amp SPDT relay is required.

Soldering is fun!
mscguy 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 28, 2015
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: January 30, 2016 at 12:51 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mscguy
Whatever wire I said earlier is what alldata shows. It only does rear window though. Not mirrors.
Kreg did a pictorial on a caravan and it will be a similar wire.
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