529t single window problem

Oops, didn't realize I never answered those, it is a 95. With white and brown grounded and switch disconnected nothing happens, I'm assuming your making sure it's not a type b system? Lucky I did have a spare switch, which is testing good. I reworked the relays to match what you said, which I believe is correct, but still no motion. I tried grounding 85 again, which again depending on which relay allows one direction, difference this time is it doesn't pop a fuse if I hit the opposite direction... so that's a very welcome change lol. I'm still thinking I have an issue with my 529 not controlling it's output wires as it should, at least if I need a new one it should be a simple plug and play at this point

Ok, cool. The source I use for wiring diagrams doesn't have anything for the 95. The 529t should control the windows with the brown and white grounded. I was thinking that if the switch doesn't rest at ground, this check would confirm it. The 529 has two internal relays. Side 1 : 30 = blue 87a = brown 87 = B+ (internal) Side 2: 30 = green 87a = white 87 = B+ (internal) You can test the basic circuitry of the 529 with your ohm meter. Blue to brown should be 0-Ohms. Green to white should be 0-Ohms. (If the above test(s) fail, the switch won't control the motor). With the black and red connected to ground and hot at all times: Activate Side 1 by grounding the orange wire. Blue should become B+ Activate side 2 by grounding the orn/blk wire Green should become B+ (If the above test(s) fail, the 529 has an internal problem).

So my module passes those tests but I'm not getting any output whatsoever on the grey wires... I figured the module was still at fault and got a new one, nothing changed. Clearly I'm misunderstanding the output wires... grey is labeled (-) output on activation side one, grey/black is labeled (-) output on activation side 2.... the only way that makes sense to me is grey is supposed to get ground when 12v is applied to brown, and same with grey/black responding to white... The only other thing I can think of is that maybe my switch should ground one wire while it sends 12v down the other, but if that was the case the relays would be unnecessary right?

elc0314 wrote: the only way that makes sense to me is grey is supposed to get ground when 12v is applied to brown, and same with grey/black responding to white...

>>>No. The gry ad gry/blk wires provide a (-) trigger (applies ground to these wires) when the output is active, when the orn or orn/blk wire is grounded and the module is active. The gry and gry/blk wires have nothing to do with the switch or their brown and white wires. I don't think you're testing the gry and gry/blk wires correctly. Obtain a #194 light bulb. They're cheap at the parts store. You can attach leads or clip leads to it really easily, and it draws a little less than 200ma which is the limit for DEI outputs. Attach one lead of the 194 to constant 12 V. Attach the other side to the gry or gry/blk wire. If the light comes on, that (-) trigger is active. A (-) trigger goes NEG when active, so the other side of the circuit must be 12V. Including your meter lead. When the module is activated by grounding the orn or orn/blk wire, it disconnects the switch side input from the motor wire, and applies +12V to the motor wire. AT the same time, the gry or gry/blk wire is grounded while that side is active. When the module times out (it moved the window) the 12V on the motor wire is removed, the ground on the gry or gry/blk wire is removed, and the switch input wire (wht or brn) is re-connected to the motor output.

elc0314 wrote: The only other thing I can think of is that maybe my switch should ground one wire while it sends 12v down the other, but if that was the case the relays would be unnecessary right?

>>> In an earlier post, I suggested a test to determine if the switch rests at ground or not. I also suggested a test to see if the module would run the motor with the white and brown wires grounded. It should. I'm pretty sure that IS the way the switch works. Grounds one wire, and energizes the other. The module passes both switch wires through itself to the motor when the module is NOT active. Because neither switch wire rests at ground, there is no ground for the other wire when the 529 applies 12V to a motor wire to move it. The relays provide that ground, when the 529 is active, and the relays are controlled by the gry and gry/blk. The relays are only needed for the 529, not the switch. The relays provide a ground when the module IS active. The relays have nothing to do with the switch operation. Only when the 529 is active. Are you activating the module with the orn and orn/blk wires? (Put one to ground, to activate that side) If you're attempting to activate the module with the switch input wires, that won't activate it. The module passes the switch input wires through to the motor.

Thank you Davep. This makes alot more sense now... so I pulled my door panel back off, and found one wire that's staying open no matter what... figured this must be a bad ground, so I grounded it, nothing changed.. so I'm pretty stumped there, I tried to use the relays to make it a normally grounded circuit like so 85-switch up 86-ground 87-ground 87a-jumped to 85 30-529t switch up input 85-switch down 86-ground 87-ground 87a- jumped to 85 30-529t switch down input But it doesn't like that either. So going back to where it was yesterday, I can control the window with the alarm, but not with the switch... Atleast it's something

Finally got it all working. Problem was with the new wires I ran to the door, I replaced them while I was in there because one wire was bad and would only allow to window to roll up when the door was open. My mistake was running the switch directly to the 529t. I ran them to the OEM module instead, which gave me 2 normally grounded wires at the plug for the motor. Then I just removed the relays and it's all working. Now the only thing I have to address is the window stopping half way up when triggered through the alarm, but I believe this is because I used an aux output instead of the ground when armed output. So I should be able to fix that by changing that aux to latch when armed instead of pulsed. But I'll save that for another day I'm just happy to have my window back. Thanks again for all your help