Lock Problem in 2004 Grand Cherokee

Yes, the RKE (-) lock outputs are correct. They connect at the top right and left sides of the diagram, "To lock output of main module, Type B". The Bulldog Security 778 relay pack is actually two relays wired together as shown. A few things to point out. Remember you must pass several wires into the front doors. The door opening and closing will eventually damage the wires unless they are well run and protected. All of the wiring and the relays inside to doors are more exposed to weather than your wiring inside the vehicle. Try to protect and water-proof all of your work inside the doors.Soldering is fun!

Where do I splice the wires at? Before or after the switch

And also...if I just do this in the front 2 doors, will it also be able to lock and unlock the back 2 doors and the hatch?

Also why do I get 5v whenever I power probe the lock and unlock pulses from the switch??

I've never done it this way. Most of the G.C.'s I do have the Grey key with the chip. My customers usually don't want to give up a key or have a working key "hidden" in the vehicle so I use a full featured bypass module. They might cost me $10 more but that's less than the cost of two DEI 451M modules ( or 4 relays with fuses ), they handle the locks and alarm, save me time, prevent any damage to the old, cold and brittle plastic door trim and fasteners, and prevent any water related issues with the added components inside the door down the road. I believe the relays inside the passenger door handles the rear doors and the trunk while the drivers door is separate from the rest. Splice in the wires going to the lock motor/solenoid. The colors are shown in the Bulldog diagram.Soldering is fun!

But if I'm only seeing 5v when probing the wires from the driver's side switch I don't want to supply 12v and destroy my car... Yes mine has the transponder key and like I said I just taped it under the steering column out of sight.

Think I would find the actual lock solenoid in the respective door. There should only be two wires going to the solenoid. If the wire colors matched up to the diagram, I would go ahead with the relay wiring into those wires. Here is a link to the Directed TechTip on door lock type, testing and wiring :    https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=708 The Jeeps locks are considered Type C ( reversal rest at ground ). This guide gives testing methods to identify the correct wires. Here is the G.C. lock wiring info from Omega :    https://www.wiresheet.com/v3/diagrams200/229%20-%20Jeep%20Grand%20Cherokee%20Door%20Locks.pdf It confirms my earlier thoughts that the passenger door solenoid would also handle the rear doors. Their DLS units are similar to the Directed 451M's and the Bulldog 778 units.Soldering is fun!

So I gotta tap into the soiinouds now instead...

Instead? That is the process shown on both wiring diagrams. You find the wires going from the door lock switch module to the lock solenoid and make your connections. The wires in the Yellow rectangle indicated below : Lock Motor = Lock SolenoidSoldering is fun!

That last diagram just confused me further since it doesn't label which pins to use on relays...