2005 Toyota Prius, Viper 4105v

Hello all, This is probably directed more towards kreg357. I'm almost done installing my viper 4105v and ADS TB flashed with DBI-TB-TL v3.7 in a 2005 Prius. Everything works like it should. However I would like a secure takeover. The flashed version stated with it "*add brake detection for secure takeover". Last page of the idata 77711 document gives you the 45 sec procedure. I was assuming this would be an option. It's looking less like it from what I'm finding today. I overlooked a notice from the top of the type 4 wiring page that states, " Important: No takeover available. Engine will shutdown on brake press." And that is exactly what it is doing. So is the message about adding brake detection for a secure takeover more generics really intended for other vehicles? I had earlier watched a YouTube linked here https://youtu.be/8TC28fYvR3g?feature=shared where a ADS TB was used in a 2007 install and the usage of a successful secure takeover. And that was posted years ago. Was this YouTube magic? Or am I missing something to make this work? Thanks

While I'm not 100% sure, I believe Jeff at Lockdown Security mis-spoke during his YouTube video. Pretty sure he used an ADS AL-CA bypass module on that 2007 Prius. With the ADS AL-CA you can get Secure Takeover to work. The ADS TB is a bit limited and cannot do Secure Takeover. If you take a look at the comparison info page* on the iDatalink site it shows which solutions provide secure takeover. The Blade AL and Blade TB do along with the ADS AL-CA. The ADS TB does not. This is also stated on the Type 4 diagram for the TB but not for the other modules. *    https://www.idatalink.com/search/search?vehicle_make_id=41&vehicle_year_id=2005&vehicle_model_id=276&vehicle_id=4346Soldering is fun!

I appreciate the info. Wish I had seen that comparison page before. Didn't do a whole lot of research on the bypass itself for this install. Watched the YouTube video and checked the idata link site for vehicle fillament. Didn't think that the takeover would be a premium option. Well at least they didn't nickel and dime the rest of the functions. Talk to remote starter- $5 You want the door to lock -$3 You want the door to unlook-$7 Trigger the rear defogger-$2 Think I will order the ADS-ALCA. It does appear to be the one used in the video. Thanks again and I'll do a follow up to hopefully report its success.

I received the ADS-ALCA from Amazon today. Got it flashed, rewired to #77704, and installed. Seems to be functioning like it should with a secure takeover! Appreciate the help kreg357.

Good news! Thanks for the update.Soldering is fun!

Thought I was good. Started securing wires, bypass, and r/s and found that now there is absolutely no r/s shutdown. Thought maybe I overstretched a wire from a connector, but all connections remain intact and have continuity. I have proper startup via r/s, but no shutdown via remote, or brake press. Only shutdown is manually pushbutton on the Prius. Also, if I r/s and wait the 12 min for the viper to shut it down, parking lights turn off but the vehicle remains running. The brake relay is operating like it should and sending 12v inputs to both the r/s and bypass when the peddle is pressed. The bypass and r/s seem to "shutdown" but is not delivering the message to the car. I have unplugged everything. Tried to refresh things with puting the key fob in and turning the vehicle on and off. Reflashed the bypass. I'm suspecting the GWR output used on the viper's satellite harness is causing the issue. When "running" it's more like 2v+ than a ground. Like 9v+ when not running. Odd, but seems good enough to initiate a remote start. If I pin a ground to either the r/s GWR output or the bypass side input GWR after a brake press or remote push, the vehicle will shut down. Pining a ground down the circuit past the diode on #85 to the relay does nothing. With all this said, could the viper's GWR output be malfunctioning and not sending the proper voltage or grounding to the bypass' input for the shutdown? Perhaps installing a relay powered off the GWR output that can cycle a wired ground to the rest of the circuit? I have tried moving the circuit wire to the rear defogger output to see if I gained functionality back. The vehicle would start and then quickly shutdown by itself. Wow. This install is a real PITA! Afterthought side note..... Shortly after my post says ago when I said everything was working like it should. I did notice some intermittent issues after every remote start where the secure take over worked and other times it didn't work and the car would shut down after the brake press. Seemed when I disturbed the wiring to the viper's GWR connector it would correct itself on the next attempt of a secure takeover. It definitely wasn't dependable at the time. When I thought it was good, that's when I started securing the wiring and modules when the gremlin decided to show it's ugly head.

Possibly a silly question but do you have the 4105 H1/8 Black wire to a solid, clean Chassis Ground point? It's not shown on the R/S generic iDatalink wiring diagram but required.Soldering is fun!

I do. Primary harness pin 8 ground. I earlier pinned an extra temporary ground to that connector as well. Same results. fYI- gave a few more details at the end of my last post possibly as you were responding

Late night update... that's how I operate. So I decided to roll with the main ground wire you spoke of and relocate to see if there was a difference. And there was not. In the back of my mind I have been semi convinced that the bypass itself is possibly corrupt with the firmware? Maybe? So I decided once again to connect the bypass to the computer to reflash the firmware. I've had a few options for flashing like DBI, Hardwired, Data. Then two different versions. I believe 3.6 and 3.7. Being a prius and using a Viper I've been opting for the DBI version and hardwiring between the two devices. When everything worked first time around I used the "new" DBI version 3.7. When issues began to arise I reflashed to the DBI 3.6 because it said it was "supported", thinking it was probably a more proven firmware. This did nothing to resolve the non-shutdown issue. So 20 minutes ago I plugged the bypass into my laptop again for another reflash and this time the app told me right away there was an update to 3.7. The same version I had the first time around, but this just popped up and not in the usual way where I would have to go through all the options to get to this stage. Also had a toggle button for the adding the secure braking. So I toggled the option off and then back on and flashed the 3.7 firmware. Reinstalled in the car with resetting it and the whole programing process for the type 4 key fob like I have done probably 40 times before. R/S the car.....it turns on. Waited a minute and pressed the viper r/s button to turn it off......and it turned off! R/S again...waited a minute... unlocked the doors and immediately pressed the brake and I had a good shut down! Now I didn't perform the process for the secure shutdown yet but felt satisfied that I had concurred the gremlin for the night. So I'm thinking this had to have been a corruption in the firmware that was not allowing this shut down to happen. After performing numerous r/s tests in different conditions over the past week, I'm wondering if the firmware in the bypass is susceptible to alteration or damage with the communications to the viper. Seems kind of weird how the bypass relashes ultimately led back to a functional state. I know this isn't over till I have everything secured under the dash and paneling put back in place. I'll update soon

Put the car back together. The viper or the bypass seems to be finiky when I disconnect and reconnect a harness. Also making changes to the viper's menu settings also throws things for a loop. Seems like I have to pull the fuses to the viper every time a change is made and cycle the ignition on and off to hopefully get a clean slate. With this, I've got a good shutdown with the remote and brake peddle outside of the secure take over. When attempting a secure take over it seems hit or miss. I don't know if it makes a difference to hold your foot on the brake for a few seconds vs. a single quick press at the end of the takeover sequence. So, I suppose it is what it is. This is all firmware. Don't think my quest for a secure takeover was worth changing to the ALCA if the takeover may or may not happen. At least this has been my experience with it.