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Remote Start Woes


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mrbean01 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: July 30, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: September 20, 2004 at 2:31 AM / IP Logged  

I've decided to start a new thread about my install of a Matrix 3.5 rsx into my '89 240sx.  I've been having some weird problems trying to get the remote start to work.  Here's what I've got so far:

1) All wires from the alarm are hooked up correctly.

2) The car is manual, but all corresponding relays and wires (clutch override, neutral safety switch) are working correctly.

3) When I activate the remote start, the alarm brain clicks and the lights flash, but nothing happens. 

4) I then ran a 12v wire directly to the starter, on top of the 12v spliced into the remote start relay, and tried remote starting again.  This time, the engine started turning, but would not fire.

What does this mean?  Am I just not running enough power to the heavy gauge wire realy on my alarm to power the starter? 

I have not cut and attached the RED / white additional 12v input wire on the relay.  Should I just run another 12v there?

Why is the engine not firing?

It's driving me nuts being so close... Remote Start Woes -- posted image.

xtremeaudio 
Copper - Posts: 174
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 30, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: September 20, 2004 at 6:03 AM / IP Logged  

it have 2 starter wire on your car

1 BLACK/ white

2 BLACK / YELLOW

mrbean01 
Member - Posts: 28
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Joined: July 30, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: September 20, 2004 at 11:21 AM / IP Logged  
Both starters are properly hooked up to the relay and functioning properly, except during remote start of course...
swamprat323 
Gold - Posts: 1,335
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Joined: September 22, 2002
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: September 20, 2004 at 11:29 AM / IP Logged  
Do you have a hood pin switch hook up?
make sure you did not turn on the wait to start wire?
mrbean01 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: July 30, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: September 20, 2004 at 11:52 AM / IP Logged  
Like I've said before, Everything is wired correctly. I've tested and verified every switch and sensor, including the hood pin, and almost every output that could be remotely associated with the remote start. I have not used any wires on the secondary harness where the wait to start wire is located.
Teken 
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Joined: August 04, 2002
Location: Aruba
Posted: September 20, 2004 at 6:34 PM / IP Logged  
1. Has the tach been learned to the system? Where and how have you attached the tach wire??
2. Are all inputs varified and secured. Brake, hood, door, etc. I would double check all of them to ensure they are not indeed grounding out, with a DMM.
3. If you installed the starter kill / anti-grind, ensure it is wired after, and not before.
Follow up on those basics first.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
Ravendarat 
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Joined: February 23, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: September 20, 2004 at 7:39 PM / IP Logged  
Im gonna guess that Teken is one the right track with the Tach wire and the starter kill system. Those would make the most sense to me. Also are you sure you dont just have a defective unit.
double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
mrbean01 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: July 30, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: September 20, 2004 at 8:58 PM / IP Logged  

1)  I think this might be the problem.  I tapped the tach wire at the ecu, and even after running the learn routine, it still twitches and acts funky.  How exactly does this effect the remote start sequence?  Is it preventing the relay from sending any power to the starter circuit during remote start?  Where/how should I connect to the tach to ensure a clean, strong signal?

2) Yup.  Tested and verified brake light, hood pin, door trigger, neutral safety, etc. with DMM

3) No seperate starter kill module installed

As far as the unit being defective, it doesn't seem too likely, as all the functions are working fine, including those connected to wires in the remote start relay, like the doors lock/unlocking based on ignition.  Like I posted earlier, I've been able to get the eingine to turn after runnning a 12v to the starter, so it seemed like a power issue...  Other than that, I have no way of telling if the unit is defective or not...

Thanks for all your quick responses so far!

Teken 
Gold - Posts: 1,492
Gold spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2002
Location: Aruba
Posted: September 20, 2004 at 9:09 PM / IP Logged  
Normally you would measure the AC voltage from what ever source you have connected to. The RS wants to see a variable AC voltage of 1 to 6 VAC.
You can obtain the tach reference from the following sources.
Injector = Use wire that is uncommon from the rest.
Coil, back of the cluster, ATC, alternator.
Bottom line, you need to varify the tach voltage strength, to ensure a consistent RS each time.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
mrbean01 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: July 30, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: September 24, 2004 at 4:59 PM / IP Logged  

Well, I've now got a solid connection to the tach behind the cluster (consistent AC voltage of 3.75 VAC verified with DMM) and the exact same problem remains:

- I f I try to remote start normally, remote start sequence begins, but nothing happens (lights flash, alarm remote shows RS symbol, but engine does not turn)

- If I run a seperate 12V to the starter circuit, and try to remote start, the engine turns, but does not fire.

What is going on???

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