Impulse-990 Alarm/Remote Start, 2000 Cavalier Z24

I'm getting desperate here!  I tried all that but the car will not remote start!  I hooked up the 3 relay's as above but the security light comes on and the car then gets no fuel.  Luckly I read somewhere should this security light come on you put the key on for 20 min to reset.  I then undid everything, reinstalled and double checked everything to get the same result.(another 20 min)  This time I tried it with the key first, still got the security light.

In one of your reply's above (may 10th -10:06am)you say diode isolate like diagram shows.  Which dia. ?  I did not diode isolate???  I don't even know how.  Now my relay's are 12v - 30 amps, my resistor is 1.8k - 1/4w.  Also I did not hook up the domelight supervision wire (could that effect)?  Also didn't hook up the ground when armed wire (didn't know where, and don't think I need to)?

I am going for a record here, for most replies!  At least I got the door locks working (I didn't need any relay's) 

Somehting else just come to my attention.  YEL wire from alarm/starter says con. to true ign.  This is the system ignition input & outputs.  Assure that this wire remains on during cranking.  Would that have an effect on making my ign wire(pink) ground when running?  this is what you told me to do with a relay, as my alarm has no ground when running wire.

Almost 98 % of the time when a remote starter doesn't start the car that has an anti theft system in it.... it's because the resistance of the chip is not being recognized by the computer and therefore doesn't want to start the car. With the resistors that you are using, is the last band a GOLD or a SILVER color ? The security light goes on because the resistance is not close enough that the computer will allow the engine to turn over. Make sure that you have the resistors wired in series ( end to end to end ) and measure what the resistance is from one end ( with positive lead of DMM ) to the other ( place negative lead of DMM to other end ). Post your results here of the resistance of the resistors to 100th of a decimal point or more.

Referring to the last part of the post from above ( I know you said to disregard, but I wanted to clarify something for you  ) The GROUND OUT WHEN RUNNING wire that you " MADE " from the ignition wire will only have current when the remote start is engaged, other wise this wire will always have power and will drain your battery over time. Make sure that when the car is idle, this relay is not outputing voltage through pin 30. If it is, you will have to get another input wire that closes the circuit while there is no power.

This is a whole new ball game!

After another unsuccessful attempt I decided to remove the relay's & resistor to make sure the car worked normally and it did  I tested the resistance again to find "0" resistance now! I don't understand, so now I try to start the car with the remote and it works.  You have to wait about 1-2 min. after the dome light goes off and it will start remotely.   I get in turn the key, press the brake and drive away but the service light (not check engine) and security light stay on til I shut the key off again.  I'm thinking I do need the dome light supervision and armed output(-) wires hooked up, I just can't figure out where they go.  Your diagram says i have a 2nd ign. wire (white)  https://www.the12volt.com/wireinfo/volt.asp?Year=2000&Make=Chevrolet&Model=Cavalier&Table=Security I didn't see any white wire, also  2 other diagram's I have seen on the net say n/a for 2nd ign wire.......So I'm confused!  any ideas?  This Impulse 990 is CRAP!

THANKS FOR YOUR PATIENCE.....

You didn't mention that you did not hook up the second ignition wire ( BROWN in ignition harness ). You need to hook up this wire because it powers the the anti theft module and if it doesn't power up properly you get the security light.

The dome light supervision wire is only an optional function that does not need to be connected in order for the remote starter to function properly. The armed output is a (-) 500ma wire that is also an optional wire that you can hook up to any device that requires operation after the system is armed ( starter disable circuit or power window module to close windows after you arm system ).

The BROWN wire needs to be hooked up to a relay in this configuration ( it can't be just hooked up to the 2 nd ignition wire , you NEED a relay for this circuit ):

• 86 - Ground out when running wire
• 30 - 2 nd Ignition ( BROWN wire on car )
• 87 + 85 : 12 volts constant
• 87a - NOT USED

This circuit isolates the 2 nd ignition wire from the 1 st ignition wire so prevent any problems during remote start.

Still no go!  I did notice one thing, The brown wire has power with the key back (on accessories) ?? and with the key on, but when you crank no more power is that normal? 

In my  instalation manual it says connect this wire (yellow/blk) to 2nd ignition wire no relay required......but that did the same thing (start then shut down)  Another thing I noticed is a small green wire at ignition I think it's the Ignition Key Warning wire, is this wire needed? 

The YELLOW / BLACK wire needs a relay ( according to the webpage that you listed above ino ne of the posts : http://www.internationalelect.com/mantis7.htm ). Try this for helping me better: write down on a peice of paper what wires you have on the alarm and which wires you have going to the car ( example: RED alarm wire - RED in ignition. ) I will then check out your connections and see if I can see anything

The only difference between the web page and my manual is that yel/blk wire (2nd ign.) does not need a relay it says new ! in the manual. Sorry!

RED alarm to RED ignition ---------ORG/WHT (cn6) to YELLOW starter side (this yellow wire is cut in two)------GRAY alarm to YELLOW ignition side-----YEL(cn7) to PINK ignition----------YEL/RED(cn8) to ORANGE ignition---------BLACK alarm to  a screw (GROUND)----------PINK/BLK alarm to WHITE at brake pedal--------BROWN alarm to RED of siren-------BLK of siren to same screw GROUND-----WHITE alarm to BROWN parking lights

Now I tested the brown to find power on accessory, on position, and run position..now the orange wire had power only in the on and run position!  could it be the orange is the 2nd ign wire and brown acc.wire??  I tried it with no accessory wire and with and without the 2nd ign wire and it didn't work!  These pages indicate different wires for 2nd ign and accessory causes me confusion....... https://www.the12volt.com/wireinfo/volt.asp?Year=2000&Make=Chevrolet&Model=Cavalier&Table=Security

http://www.internationalelect.com/cavalier.htm

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/wires/chevcava00.htm

After several more attempts I've let the system try to start 4 times to give me the diagnostic flashes it flashes the lights seven times which means-- 7 Flashes: The system failed to properly start the engine due to not being able to sense the engine running. If this persists, Set SW5 to OFF and Connect the White Black Wire to the (-) of the COIL.

If I turn switch 5 off do I really need to connect that whiteéblk wire to my tach?  It's hard to get at it, it's at the PCM.