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2005 magnum, remote start


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mue4 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: October 07, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 29, 2005 at 8:25 PM / IP Logged  
Installing a remote start in an 05 magnum. When the vehicle is started with the key it will go into remote start take over mode fine, but the tach in the cluster goes dead. Also, the vehicle will not program the 556cw as a remote key. Please help.
mo12v 
Platinum - Nominee - Posts: 2,748
Platinum - Nominee spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 30, 2003
Location: Afghanistan
Posted: November 29, 2005 at 9:29 PM / IP Logged  

Try using Injector Wire

What Remote Start are you installing??
I think You need a Wait To Start Wire for the 556C

I rather use the OMEGA:

Chrysler Doorlock Alarm & Interface: 2005+ Chrysler/Jeep (DB-CHDL7)
    2005 magnum, remote start -- posted image.
2005 magnum, remote start -- posted image.
2005 magnum, remote start -- posted image.2005 magnum, remote start -- posted image.Chrysler Doorlock Alarm & Interface/Bypass (DB-CHDL7P2)
    2005 magnum, remote start -- posted image.
2005 magnum, remote start -- posted image.
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    2005 magnum, remote start -- posted image.
2005 magnum, remote start -- posted image.
2005 magnum, remote start -- posted image.2005 magnum, remote start -- posted image.Chrysler 2 in1 Transponder RF Bypass (IB-UCH2GX)
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2005 magnum, remote start -- posted image.
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    2005 magnum, remote start -- posted image.

MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
zargon 
Copper - Posts: 186
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 27, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: November 29, 2005 at 9:50 PM / IP Logged  
i am still using a 556u on this car, explain when the tach goes dead, i know when we have done these that alow battery light will display bu will go away once the the brake has been pressed on the car restarted, ive seen a message on how to fix this but have not read it yet.
b-roy 
Copper - Posts: 56
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 21, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: November 29, 2005 at 9:56 PM / IP Logged  
These cars are interesting aren't they? Best place to start is to check out what is going on.....meter wires, watch what they do, see where they hook do, what those wires do etc. etc.
anickle 
Member - Posts: 42
Member spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: November 29, 2005 at 10:16 PM / IP Logged  

I hate this car.  I spent about 6 hours fighting with one.  Ended up bringing it to  Gus's shop for help.  If you are using viper... throw it in tachless mode, it

works like a charm.  Second of all make sure your resistence in the start and accesory wires are correct, again directechs infotech works very well for it.  I

used a 556u with sentry 2 key which programmed awesome.  If you are using the 556c you need to have a wait to start wire.   What is the sequence you are using to program the 556c?

andrew nickle
mue4 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: October 07, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 30, 2005 at 1:02 AM / IP Logged  
I think im following the proper sequece for the 556cw. I have the red wire on 12v fused constant and the blue on the status output (-). I am installing a Clifford Matrix RS3.5
Sequence followed is:
1. Turn key 1 to run position for approx 8 seconds.
2. Remove key 1
3. Within 10 seconds turn key 2 to run position for 10 seconds until sentry light comes on.
4. Within 10 seconds place chip on 556cw in front of key slot and with the wait to start wire grounded, initiate start sequence on remote.
This is where it stops for me. The sentry light does not go solid as it should and the chip is not programed. I assume this is because of my other problem with the accessory/2nd start wire. I followed the directFax doc 1084 to a T, and I tied the purple wire both to the starter side of the primary start wire and to the relay in doc 1084. I assume this is the correct way of doing it.
I went with the 556cw over the 556uw as the loom setup was goofy to me and i had clearance issues with out the cluster panel fit around the ignition switch.
mo12v 
Platinum - Nominee - Posts: 2,748
Platinum - Nominee spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 30, 2003
Location: Afghanistan
Posted: November 30, 2005 at 7:49 AM / IP Logged  
What do you have the GRAY / Black from Clifford hooked to??
MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
gus1 
Gold - Posts: 1,013
Gold spacespace
Joined: October 15, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: November 30, 2005 at 9:40 AM / IP Logged  
The only reason we went tachless is a matter of the right tach wire (which wasn't obviously hooked up) and time....
1) 1st key on, security light comes on, then goes out, key off and out
2) 2nd key on, security light comes on, then goes out... then there is one ding from cluster and theft light comes back on flashing. key off, remove
3) Grounding the wait to start, pellet positioned, hit remote start. Everything powers up, light is flashing.... after 15-20sec, it will ding once, and go solid. key is now learned.
Gus
Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
mue4 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: October 07, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 30, 2005 at 10:20 AM / IP Logged  
The grey/black wait to start is grounded for the moment when programming the chip. On all other circumstances i describe, it is not grounded.
gus1, for step three, the light continues to flash, never goes solid, but i know i tripped a whole bunch of engine codes. Perhaps you cant program a new key if the check engine light is on.
gus1 
Gold - Posts: 1,013
Gold spacespace
Joined: October 15, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: November 30, 2005 at 11:24 AM / IP Logged  
Probably not...
Are you sure you have the negative starter/negative ignition wires resistored correctly??
Gus
Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
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