99 Alero Remote Start

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iskidoo

Silver - Posts: 1,040

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Joined: December 08, 2002

Location: Maine, United States

Posted: January 08, 2003 at 12:16 AM / IP Logged

Actually the light Blue wires should be accesible underneath the passenger's dash at the BCM. Use a diode to isolate each trigger. I installed a remote start/keyless/trunk on Monday in a 2000 Alero. I just ran my wires through firewall beside the speedo cable. Just use a piece of coat hanger to pull the wire through. if your going through that trouble you might as well run a tach wire too. Makes starting much more relaible. The first time everytime.

Steve G

rh_alero

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: January 03, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: January 13, 2003 at 1:51 PM / IP Logged

Thanks for your suggestions! I'm going to wait till things warm up a bit before I try looking for the wire again. If I put a wire through the firewall, I'll probably put a few through for any future things...

After using my car starter for a week, I noticed a couple other things that have come up. The heater blower does not start when the car is started with the remote starter. I thought I connected the HVAC wire correctly, but I guess I'll have to confirm. Also, the engine light has been on permanently since the remote starter was installed. I diode isolated the one door trigger, do I need to diode isolate anything else?

Thanks,

-RH

iskidoo

Silver - Posts: 1,040

Joined: December 08, 2002

Location: Maine, United States

Posted: January 13, 2003 at 2:01 PM / IP Logged

Thats happened to me before so now I check to make sure the blower works and the A/C before I tuck all my wires away and close up the dash. Nothing sucks more than taking it all apart again because thier were more than one accessory wires that needed to be powered. Or again in the summer because the heater worked but the A/C wasn't engaging due to a missing power wire. I just added a few relays to my own vehicle that force the blower on high whenever the the remote starter is on. I seem to forget to set my heat controls to high when I exit the vehicle...lol. Now they come on automatically every time. The engine light could have something to do with your Passlock 2 bypass. If the resistance isn't exactly right it will cause that idiot light to come on. Some are hard to tweak exactly so the last time that happened to me, I got it as close as possible and then permanantly bypassed the factory Passlock 2. By engaging the bypass module everytime the ignition was powered. This means even when you use the key. That way the computer never sees a difference in the resistances and doesn't give you that warning light. Hope everything turns out well. Good luck.

Steve G

rh_alero

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: January 03, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: January 14, 2003 at 11:37 AM / IP Logged

I did permanently bypass the passlock 2 with a resistor. I thought if I got it wrong, I would see the security light come on. Did you just replace the resistance of the ignition switch with an equal resistor, or did you somehow engage the bypass module when the ignition was powered. If so, how did you do that? Are there other wires going to the bypass module I should know about besides the yellow and ORANGE / black?

Thanks,

-RH

iskidoo

Silver - Posts: 1,040

Joined: December 08, 2002

Location: Maine, United States

Posted: January 14, 2003 at 4:30 PM / IP Logged

If your security light isn't the culprit then there's no need to permantly bypass the Passlock system. I thought that you said the security light was staying on. The engine light might be just from having troubles with the passlock and the computer sent you a warning. Might need to be reset by the dealer or try disconnecting the battery cable to the vehicle for 10 minutes. That may clear it out.

But to answer your question...attach the +12 volt relay turn on lead (pin 85 or 86) to the Ignition wire and the other lead for turn on (pin 85 or 86) to chassis ground. Everytime you turn the ignition on by key or remote start the vehicle the passlock bypass will be engaged. OEM Passlock will remain permantly bypassed. Make sure your Ignition source for 12 volts is the one that is powered during remote start.

Steve G

Auto_Obsessions

Member - Posts: 25

Joined: January 14, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: January 14, 2003 at 9:20 PM / IP Logged

Make it easy on yourself and purchase a passlock 2 bypass module from dei.

Search for other posts by Auto_Obsessions

themagicone

Silver - Posts: 325

Joined: October 01, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: January 14, 2003 at 9:32 PM / IP Logged

Could be that you got the 2nd ingingtion wrong, I did that a few times. Also, to get threw the firewall go to a hobby shop and buy a short peice of brass tubing 1/4 inch works great and sharpen one end - presto push right threw factory ruber gromets and then just push your wires threw the middle - pull the tube out on the other side and your done!

rh_alero

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: January 03, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: January 18, 2003 at 2:54 PM / IP Logged

I'll give this stuff a try out when things get a bit warmer here. It's -20C here right now. The copper tubing sounds like a good idea too.

Thanks,

-RH

rh_alero

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: January 03, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: January 29, 2003 at 8:55 PM / IP Logged

Found the passenger door trigger at the passenger BCM!

Also got the heater blower working. I had the accessory from the remote starter to the accessory on the Alero. Supposed to connect to the HVAC.

Thanks all for your help!

-RH

iskidoo

Silver - Posts: 1,040

Joined: December 08, 2002

Location: Maine, United States

Posted: January 30, 2003 at 12:04 PM / IP Logged

The blower should work fine by connecting to the accessory as long as you have both ignition wires powered. Glad you got it all working though.

Steve G

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