Avital Quick Start melting fuse

My daughter's 1997 Chevy Blazer SUV, has a Hurricane (not a Hurricane II) alarm system with an Avital Quick-Start (add-on remote starter.)  This was all installed by a previous owner.   Since the time she owned the truck, the remote starter has given us trouble.  We have fused it with a 30 amp fuse (I think it's only supposed to be a 20 amp.  It really doesn't  "blow" fuse..it literally overheats and melts the green plastic bridge between the two legs (spade terminals) of the fuse.  Eventually the heat will burn up the entire fuse & fuse holder too for that matter.

It only seems to overheat and melt the fuse when the truck is remote started and left to run with the heater or AC on for a fairly long time, like you might do in the winter to warm it up or summer to cool it down.

I am wondering if it was mis-wired when installed.  What I notice is when I remote start it the voltage gauge for the alternator will only be reading 9-10 volts until I put the key in the ignition and turn it to the run position, then the voltage gauge will read up to the full 13.5 -14 volts that it normally does.

Has anyone seen anything like this before?  Does anyone have an idea of where I should look.  I'm thinking that somehow all the current needs for the truck are running through this fuse until the key is turned to run.  Help!!

Thanks

Spit

JWorm,

Is it possible to get a wiring diagram for the Q-Start?   I could check the actual wiring to what the diagram shows.

I thought I read something on a post somewhere that said the Blazer had 2 ignition wires?  Maybe only one of them is being used when both should be?

Thanks for your help

Spit

The second ignition in these GM vehicles is to "turn on" the Auto Trans. If it wasn't hooked up, the trucks' trans would probably be dead by now. Buuuut ... check it anyhow. It is a White or Pink w/ White Stripe wire - usually just white, though.

I am somewhat familiar w/ that old remote start. It has two (2) Main Power Wires - Red - about 12 Ga wires. It is a common shortcut to cut one of those Main Power Wires off short - close to the RS control module & then splice it in to the other red wire. This would make the install marginally easier for the installer - only 1 red wire to run & hook up. To fix this, look the RS harness over carefully - you should be able to see if/where the shortcut was taken. If it was done, just undo the connection and extend & run the second red wire to +12V - FUSE IT! Use a length of wire that is of at least the same gauge.

This MAY correct the low voltage condition you are experiencing, as well. If not, try this ...

Remote start the truck w/ the A/C on. This is when you experience the low voltage condition, correct? Now, without putting the key in the ignition, put your foot on the gas - raise the engine speed a bit. Does the voltage raise to the "normal" level? If so, the Alt is not turning on - the engine is not at a high enough rpm while idling w/ the A/C on. This could indicate an Alt problem. It could also be a broblem w/ the engines' computer - it is supposed to be able to tell if the A/C is on & raise the engines rpm to compensate fot the additional load. Might be time for a trip to a GM mechanic.