paulygs69
Registered Member
USA
5 Posts
Posted - 07/17/2006 : 06:51:53 AM
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I installed a remote start alarm on a 2000 SLK, works great except that when the vehicle is running, the door locks do not lock or unlock. The keyless entry works fine when arming or disarming, but after remote starting the locks do not respond. Anyone run into this before?
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Edited by - paulygs69 on 07/17/2006 4:12:02 PM
Chris Luongo
Senior Member
USA
366 Posts
Posted - 07/17/2006 : 4:28:03 PM
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The SLK is the same car as the Chrysler Crossfire, right?
I've done a few Crossfires, but never an SLK, but I ran into the same problem you did. And the Directechs information doesn't mention it.
There is a doorlock switch on the center of the dashboard, below the radio.
It is a resistance wire if I remember right......straight ground does one thing, and ground through a resistor does another.
I didn't bother using relays, just diodes on the lock/unlock wires from the remote starter.......and then I tried a few different resistors until I found one that worked.
So, here's pretty much what I did:
--Remove radio. (Mercedes radio tools, or grind the nubs off some Pioneer radio tools, and try not to scratch up the radio.
--After the radio is removed, you'll see two small Torx screws holding the dash panel in place.
--After undoing the screws, it is then easy to remove the panel, allowing access to the back of the switch.
Wiring:
(Note: the car disarms automatically when starting; there is no need to connect factory disarm.)
--Split your unlock output with two diodes. Do the same with the lock output. So now you have a pair of lock and unlock outputs.
--Connect one lock output, and one unlock output, to the wires in the kick panel, like you've already done.
--Run the other two to the lock/unlock switch on the dash.......test all the wires at the back of the switch to find which is the right one. Also, make a note of which function needs straight ground, and which one needs a resistor.
--Hook up the "straight" wire first, directly to the wire in the car, but don't tape it yet.
--Grab a few resistors, make a temporary connection from the RS wire to the car's wire, and try out the aftermarket remote until you find a resistor that works......both with the engine off and running.
paulygs69
Registered Member
USA
5 Posts
Posted - 07/17/2006 : 9:12:43 PM
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I will double check the vehicle, I don't believe there was a lock switch in the dash. But I didn't look real hard around the dash either. I asked the customer and got little help. This is a 2000 with only 5k on the odometer. "I think I know the car better than they do now."
I'll check for the lock switch, I'm not sure if the SLK is the same as the Crossfire, but I'll find out soon enough!
I have the radio removal tools, and I'll try the diodes and resistors. I'll let you know if it works.
Thanks for the info!
paulygs69
Registered Member
USA
5 Posts
Posted - 08/01/2006 : 06:34:02 AM
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I finally got a chance to try your fix, it worked! Thanks a bunch. It was a breeze!
Thanks again Chris.
Chris Luongo
Senior Member
USA
366 Posts
Posted - 08/02/2006 : 05:51:12 AM
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Hi Paul,
I'm very glad I could help!
Christopher
howie
Registered Member
United Kingdom
51 Posts
Posted - 08/10/2006 : 2:16:53 PM
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The Crossfire is definately an SLK under the skin, the resistance is 200ohms or was on earlier M/B's to a GREEN / WHITE wire on switch. There were two ways of locking M/B saloons C & E class at the time using a blue neg unlock and black neg lock in driver's floor loom as well as aforementioned dash switch. NB Ford Focus = Volvo 50 = Mazda 3