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03 Chevy S10 tach wire


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Herk 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: October 13, 2006 at 3:45 AM / IP Logged  

2003 Chevrolet S10 4.3L extended cab 2WD.

  UNGO Pro Security SR6000

I have connected the tach input wire to the white wire on the coil and I seem to be having some problems. I am getting an intermittent check engine light (usually turns on after a remote start). I disconected the wire, just to see, and the module reacts the way I had expected, it starts and shuts down within seconds. I tried using a diode, preventing the coil from 'seeing' the module. Oddly, the starter would not disengage. Is there a better place to tap? I looked on the instrument cluster but I couldn't find the right signal, and don't have a good schematic. One other thing I foud odd was the istruments don't indicate until I put the ignition in run, manually.

Herk 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: October 13, 2006 at 4:13 PM / IP Logged  

After some searching online, It looks as if the tach wire I assumed was incorrectly connected is not the problem. I used the following charts to hook up the remote start:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=23415

I pulled the following codes from the vehicle:

P0740 TCC Enable Solenoid Circuit Electrical

P0758 2-3 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical
P0785 3-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical
P1860 TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit Electrical

I found this on the internet:

- this can result in the converter staying in lock-up mode and feeling like the engine has no power or is starting off in a higher gear - it can be because the converter is bad or it could be a switch in the transmission causing a false signal - either way it will have to be checked by a dealer as most shops are limited in the availability of transmission software for their scanners. Most transmissions shops are also limited and just want to replace parts or sell an overhaul. Also there is a default condition on most electronic transmissions which put them in 2nd gear default when the PCM sees a transmission fault - this locks the trans in 2nd gear only allowing you to get to a dealer - this could explain why it has no power - also when you cycle the key on and off the default shift condition can go away until the PCM sees the malfunction again....

and

...may illuminate the MIL and produce a condition that causes the transmission to stick in 3rd gear. The instrument cluster may become inoperative, as well. When you check the codes, one or all of the following DTCs may be set in memory: P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785 and P1860.

The most likely cause of these problems may be a power loss to the transmission on wiring circuit 1020. This power loss may be due to an open circuit in the ignition switch. But according to Isuzu, these conditions may also be the result of an incorrect installation of an aftermarket electronic device, such as a remote starter or alarm.

Can anyone help me determine which ignition harness wire I may have mistaken.

shaggy12volt 
Copper - Posts: 164
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 16, 2002
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: October 13, 2006 at 4:22 PM / IP Logged  

did you power up the 2nd ingition wire the white one coming from your ingition harness

WIRING INFORMATION - CHEVROLET / S-10 PICKUP / 2003 / Remote Start

12volts red  +  ignition harness
Starter yellow  +  ignition harness
Second Starter N/A    
Ignition pink  +  ignition harness
Second Ignition white  +  ignition harness
Third Ignition N/A    
Accessory orange  +  ignition harness
Second Accessory     
Keysense     
Power Lock lt. blue  +  brown plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located to the right of the accelerator pedal below the radio. The plugs on the BCM face towards the driver side.
Power Unlock white  +  brown plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located to the right of the accelerator pedal below the radio. The plugs on the BCM face towards the driver side.
Lock Motor gray  5wi driver kick panel
Unlock Motor tan  5wi driver kick panel
Parking Lights+ brown  +  lt. blue plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located to the right of the accelerator pedal below the radio. The plugs on the BCM face towards the driver side.
Parking Lights- white  -  lt. blue plug at BCM
Notes: This wire will not test when using the headlight switch. This wire is triggered by the DRL system. To meter the wire, start the car with the parking brake set, when the brake is released this wire will go to ground.
The BCM (Body Control Module) is located to the right of the accelerator pedal below the radio. The plugs on the BCM face towards the driver side.
Hazards     
Turn Signal(L)     
Turn Signal(R)     
Reverse Light     
Door Trigger   -  purple plug at BCM
Notes: Use tan for the driver door located in pin B4, orange for the passenger door located in pin B2. Use both wires and diode isolate.
The BCM (Body Control Module) is located to the right of the accelerator pedal below the radio. The plugs on the BCM face towards the driver side.
Dome Supervision use door trigger    
Trunk/Hatch Pin N/A    
Hood Pin     
Trunk/Hatch Release N/A    
Power Sliding Door N/A    
Factory Alarm Arm     
Factory Alarm Disarm lt. green  -  purple plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located to the right of the accelerator pedal below the radio. The plugs on the BCM face towards the driver side.
Disarm No Unlock see factory alarm disarm    
Tachometer white  ac  PCM
Notes: The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is located on the passenger fender. On the 2.2L the wire is in a black 80 pin plug pin 10, and on the 4.3L the wire is in a red 32 pin plug pin 20.
Wait to start N/A    
Brake Wire white  +  steering column
Parking Brake     
Horn Trigger black  -  steering column
Notes: Also found in the brown plug at the BCM on vehicles with a factory alarm.
Memory Seat 1     
Memory Seat 2     
Memory Seat 3     
03 Chevy S10  tach wire -- posted image.
Interface Module:Category:
Immobilizer Bypass
Required:
Yes
Type:
Passlock II
Part #: 556LW
Alternate Part1 #: 555LW
Alternate Part2 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part3 #: DesignTech 29402
Notes:
Interface Module:Category:
Door Lock Interface
Required:
No
Type:
N/A
Part #: N/A
Notes:
Interface Module:Category:
Combo Interface
Required:
Yes
Type:
Data Bus
Part #: 457GW
Notes: Can use the 457GW to bypass the Passlock II, but it will not control the door locks on this model year.
The Shagmaster
1999 Chevy Suburban 15" lift sittn on 22's sets 7'5"
1992 Chevy Astro Van all Bagged out Dubbed THE SUICIDER
Installing for over 18 years Looking for empolyment NOW send PM for resum
Herk 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: October 13, 2006 at 7:17 PM / IP Logged  
The only wire under the column that is even a little questionable is that 2nd ignition wire. I had it connected to one of three white wires in that harness. I tested it back then and was convinced it was the right wire, but the fact that it was so small (16-18ga) has me second guessing; that and all of my other problems.
Herk 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: October 13, 2006 at 9:32 PM / IP Logged  
Can anyone tell me what guage the white ign. wire to be connected to is? What position is it on the harness connector (plug)?
kgerry 
Platinum - Posts: 3,455
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: February 07, 2004
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posted: October 14, 2006 at 1:57 PM / IP Logged  
did you METER it as an IGN wire?   dont just look, but verify that it is the right wire.....
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
xtremej 
Gold - Posts: 1,440
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: February 24, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 14, 2006 at 1:59 PM / IP Logged  
It is possible that it is a smaller gauge but this must be verified with multi meter...It should have power through the start cycle.
shaggy12volt 
Copper - Posts: 164
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 16, 2002
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: October 14, 2006 at 2:18 PM / IP Logged  
if my memory serves me right it is a thin gauge wire but you still need to meter it be at 0.00 volt when key is in the off postion while cycleing the key to the start and back to run postion should have 12volts i beleave the 2nd ingition has to be powered up this will cuase the check engine light to come on.
The Shagmaster
1999 Chevy Suburban 15" lift sittn on 22's sets 7'5"
1992 Chevy Astro Van all Bagged out Dubbed THE SUICIDER
Installing for over 18 years Looking for empolyment NOW send PM for resum
Herk 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: October 14, 2006 at 4:28 PM / IP Logged  

I had tested the small white wire, and I have disconnected and tested again. It is the second ignition wire. Just to make sure I tested the pink/white wire on the remote start relay module: No voltage at all was present during the start cycle. Is the second ignition wire from the module used for only more current capability or is the timing different?

Herk 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: October 14, 2006 at 4:45 PM / IP Logged  
There are some things that I can see to do: return the alarm, the alarm instructions says the third power wire is only need for more current capability-but maybe it powers the relay for the pink/white (I could connect it), I could short the pink and pink/white wires together, maybe using 6A diodes for isolation. Does anyone have any better ideas, or am I barking up the wrong tree again?
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