the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

1987 mazda rx-7, python 991


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
19rxseven87 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: May 25, 2010
Posted: June 04, 2010 at 3:37 AM / IP Logged  
Hi guys,
I'm new to wiring car security up, but I have done car stereos before.
I have a few questions on the wiring of the python 991 in specific.
I am using the vehicle wiring diagram supplied by the 12volt.
First of all, are many of the wires on the alarm harness not used because of the feature not being needed? For example, on the auxiliary harness H2, the Aux 1 output and Aux 2 output are not used for a regular car alarm install?
The car in question is a 1987 mazda rx-7 with DEI 524 door lock actuators installed.
Secondly I am going to run through the harness and see if I have this correct:
H1/1: trunk release output = not used because i have a manual trunk release
H1/2: constant 12v (+) input = used
H1/3: siren output (+) = used because I need some sound for the alarm
H1/4: light flash - isolation wire- = I'm not sure about this. I have the installation diagram but I don't know what it means by lightswitch and control module in the car? Can anyone elaborate?
H1/5: chassis ground = used
H1/6: (+) door trigger input = used because my door trigger is a positive input
H1/7: trunk pin/instant trigger input = not used??? What does this do?
H1/8: (-) door trigger input = not used because door trigger is positive
H1/9: 200mA dome light output = used if i want the dome light to turn on when i lock and unlock the car??? Can anyone help me??? Uses a relay correct?? Which one and where can I buy it?
H1/10: turbo timer/remote start activation input = used if i need the turbo timer to work, but where and how do i wire this?
H1/11: parking light output = used and connected to parking light
H1/12: 500mA ground when armed output = used but where do i connect this to??
AUXILIARY HARNESS
H2/1: (-) factory alarm disarm output = not used
H2/2: (-) factory alarm output = not used
H2/3: (-) 200mA aux 1 output = not used?? what is this for??
H2/4: (-) 200mA aux 2 output = not used, same as above?
H2/5: (-) 200mA aux 3 output = not used, same as above?
H2/6: (-) 200mA 2nd unlock output = used if i want to be able to push the unlock button twice to unlock all the doors and push once for just the driver door?
H2/7: (-) disel wait to start input = not used?? only for diesel engines??
H2/8: (-) horn honk output = used if i don't want to use the siren?
HEAVY GAUGE 10-PIN CONNECTOR
H3/1: ignition 1 input/output = used
H3/2: (+) fused ignition 2 = used
H3/3: accessory output = used
H3/4: starter output = used (in between the starter input and output right?)
H3/5: starter input = used but going to the ignition switch?
H3/6: (+) (30A) fused ignition relay 1 input = Not sure what to do with this!
H3/7: (+) ignition 2 flex relay output = Not sure what to do with this!
H3/8: 87a of ignition 2 flex relay = Not sure what to do with this!
H3/9: (+) (30A) fused accessory/starter relay input = Not sure what to do with this!
REMOTE START INPUT
1: neutral safety switch input = used for remote start, but is the e-brake wire ok to use?
2: tachometer input wire = used for remote start
3: (+) brake shutdown wire = used for remote start
4: N/0 or N/C (-) hood pin switch input = used, connected to a hoodpin switch?
5: (-200) mA 2nd status/rear defogger = Not necessary to be connected, but will activate rear defroster?
REMOTE START AUXILIARY OUPUT
Harness not necessary unless additional accessories are added that require a remote start to activate it??
DOOR LOCK WIRE DIAGRAMS
Since I am using the DEI 524 N actuators, I will use a "Type D" using a DEI 451M relay.
Sorry for the very long post, but I want to be very thorough for this install. I have always been a little intimidated to install a car security, not because of my soldering abilities, but because I might not be able to locate the right wires.
Thanks a TON in advance.
19rxseven87 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: May 25, 2010
Posted: June 04, 2010 at 3:39 AM / IP Logged  
can a mod please change the title to "Help me with a car alarm install?" thanks!
the12volt 
Administrator - Posts: 3,955
Administrator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 07, 2002
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: June 04, 2010 at 8:20 AM / IP Logged  
19rxseven87 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: May 25, 2010
Posted: June 04, 2010 at 2:49 PM / IP Logged  
ahh, ok sorry these forum rules are a little more different than standard forums.
19rxseven87 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: May 25, 2010
Posted: June 05, 2010 at 5:35 AM / IP Logged  
can anyone please advise?
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,608
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: June 06, 2010 at 7:27 AM / IP Logged  

on the h1 harness, eliminate the parking light isolation wire you don't need it!

Are you sure that car is positive trigger?

For the dome light you need a single pole single throw relay or single pole double throw, doesn't matter any will do fine!

No need for the Ground when armed wire, the unit has built in immobiliser, (unless you're using it to wind up windows or something)

The turbo timer input eliminate this as well

All the heavy gauge reds go to 12 volts constant

The pink/black flex relay input, eliminate this!

commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: June 06, 2010 at 9:30 AM / IP Logged  

make sure you test your wires !

Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
19rxseven87 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: May 25, 2010
Posted: June 09, 2010 at 5:48 AM / IP Logged  
The car has a negative door trigger.
So, is the dome light supervision wire necessary or not?
I want to have the turbo timer functional on this unit so I need to keep the tuber timer input wire. But I don't know what to do with it. Can any of you help? Also I found on this page the ground when armed output on the factory harness but I don't know if I should wire it or not, should I? Or should I leave it cut?
So, on the H1 harness, can I cut the trunk release output, the light flash isolation wire, the positive door trigger input, trunk pin/instant trigger input?
How would I go about testing the wiores for something like ignition 1 / 2 starter output?
Thanks in advance.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 09, 2010 at 4:12 PM / IP Logged  
The trunk pin wire (blue, H1/7) connect this to trunk light trigger, microswitch) in hatch lid catch otherwise, if someone forced the trunk lid, you've no protection. On that model you have to wire back to the trunk lid catch. Cut the others.
Don't need light isolation wire.
Dome light BLACK/ white to relay 85, constant 12V+ 5amp fused to 86, ground to 87 and 30 to to green door trigger wire.
H1/10 WHITE/ blue turbo timer wire to relay 85, 30amp fused constant to 86 and 87, 30 to your ignition input/output wire. Programme that wire for approx 1 1/2 mins.
H1/12 only required with window closers.
Ignore H2/3 6 and 7.
H/3, 4 & 5 YES
H3/6 to battery.
H3/7 and 8 Do you have a second ignition wire? H3/9 to battery.
1) Yes
2)Use tach line on inst. panel for this.
3 to side of brake switch that goes 12v+ when brake pedal is depressed.
4 Yes as n/o when hood is closed (goes to ground when hood is opened,
absolutely mandatory with a remote start.
5 Probably need to feed an outboard relay which is connected to the hot window power side.
Rem start aux output..correct.
Locks. are you using a dedicated relay with them? If not use the 451.
19rxseven87 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: May 25, 2010
Posted: June 09, 2010 at 5:22 PM / IP Logged  
What do you mean by the hatch lid catch?
Are you saying I need additional relays (purchased elsewhere like radio shack) for the dome light, and turbo timer??
What do you mean by a second ignition wire?
Also for the 451m, what do you connect the purple fused wire to? Do you connect it to a constant 12v or do you connect it to a switched 12 v?? I have the green and the blue wires on both actuators connected in parallel connected to the 451m and I have the other wires connected to the ground, but I haven't connected the purple wire yet because I am unsure if it needs to go to a constant 12v or a switched 12v.
Page of 5

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Sunday, May 19, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer