honda fit 2011 bulldog remote starter

I’m installing a remote starter on my fit and am having a few issues. I was going to post an install guide for fits, since I had difficulty finding specific info on remote starter installs for them, but I have some questions for anyone that can help. I will use abbreviations to keep this neat. Car: Honda Fit 2011 Sport MT (US) Remote Starter (RS): Bulldog Model Deluxe 500 Remote Starter with Keyless Entry (2 way LCD remote starter with keyless entry) Immobilizer Bypass Module (IBM): Omega OL-DB-HA (flashed for Honda Fit, I also have a iDatalink ADS- DLSL-HA which is for another fit I’m doing next); Both have been flashed for a honda fit 2009-2011 (The installer I bought them from mailed me the printed flashed logs with the bypasses after he flashed them) Yes it’s a MT. I installed a magnetic reed switch and rare earth magnet under the clutch to ground the Neutral Safety Switch wire when in neutral. I’ve tested this circuit with an LED for a week before installing it, and the circuit works as it should. Diagrams & Manuals: Bulldog Install Manual: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/manualsnew/D500installmanuallow.pdf Owner’s Manual: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/manualsnew/D500manuallow4-11.pdf Quick Install Troubleshooting diagrams and wiring harnesses: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/manualsnew/deluxe500QuickStart1FINALlow.pdf

Wiring Diagram: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp Omegalink: OL-DB-HA: http://www.omegaweblink.com/solutions-for-vehicle/7765 iDatalink ADS-DLSL-HA: (same as Omega) http://www.idatalink.com/search/index/model/7765 Wiring: Honda Fit 2010 Wiring from Omega: http://www.wiringinstructions.com/v2/wiresprint.asp?recnum=10159&printsubmit=PRINT WIRING CHART FROM BULLDOG WEBSITE: PART/ COLOR/ LOCATION 12 VOLT CONSTANT / WHITE (+) @ / IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 3 STARTER / PINK (+) / @ IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 1 STARTER 2 / N/A IGNITION 1 / YELLOW (+) / @ IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 6 IGNITION 2 / N/A IGNITION 3 / N/A ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 / ORANGE (+) /@ IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 4 ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2 / RED (+) / @ IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 5 KEYSENSE / N/A PARKING LIGHTS (-) / GRAY (-) / @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, (BLACK/ WHITE, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 11 PARKING LIGHTS (+) / GRAY (+) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 42 POWER LOCK / LIGHT BLUE (TYPE B) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 8 POWER UNLOCK / GRAY (TYPE B) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 1 DOOR TRIGGER / BLUE (-) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 33 DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION / BLUE (-) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 8- Pin Plug) Pin 7 TRUNK RELEASE / (LOCKS/UNLOCKS with Doors) SLIDING POWER DOOR / N/A HORN / ORANGE (-) @ / HORN SWITCH, (WHITE, 20-Pin Plug) Pin 1 TACH / any BROWN, RED, BLUE or YELLOW (AC) / @ FUEL-INJECTOR Harness, on Drivers side of Engine WAIT TO START LIGHT / N/A BRAKE / LIGHT GREEN (+) / @ BRAKE SWITCH or DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 14 FACTORY ALARM DISARM / GREEN (-), NOTE #2 / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 4 ANTI-THEFT / HONDA'S TRANSPONDER SYSTEM, See NOTE #1 / @ IGNITION TUMBLER Below is how I have wired things based on the diagrams and instructions Omegalink OL-DB-HA (IBM – Immobilizer Bypass Module) 4 Pin BLACK/ data Harness (4pinB) 1 Blue/White [GWR (-)] (Ground When Running) -------- RS:H7/1 Blue/Black [Ignition 3 Output] 2 No Wire 3 Black [Ground] -------- RS:H2/3 Black [System Ground] 4 Red [12V (+)] ------------- Car:White [12V+ constant] ----------RS:H1/2 Red [12v+ power input] & H1/3 Red [12v+ power input] & H2/5 Red [System +12V Constant Power] 10 pin White Harness (10pinW) 1 GREEN/ Black [Lock/Arm (-) Input] --------- RS:H6 Green [(+) Unlock Output, (-) Lock Output] 2 Blue/Black [Unlock/Disarm (-) Input] -----------RS:H6 Blue [(-) Unlock Output, (+) Lock Output] 3 RED / White [Trunk (-) Input] --------------- RS:H7/7 RED / White [Channel 3 Trunk Output] 4 Brown N/A 5 Purple / YELLOW [Ground] ------------- Car:Grounded to Body (with 7pinW: 1 BROWN / Red [Ground] 6 PURPLE / Black N/A 7 White N/A 8 BLACK/ White [Starter (+) Input] --------------- RS:H1/1 Violet [Starter Crank Output] 9 Green [Door/Trunk Status (-) Output] ----------- RS:H5/6 Green [Negative Door Input] 10 PURPLE / White N/A 3 pin Black Harness (3pinB) 1 WHITE/ Black --------------- IBM: 7pinW:2 BROWN / Yellow [Doorlock} 2 WHITE/ Red [Unlock (-) from Driver Door] -------------- Car: Gray (-) @ Dash fusebox Lt Green 12 pin Conn, Pin 1 [Unlock] 3 White [Lock (-) from Driver Door] ------------Car: Lt Blue (-) @ Dash fusebox Lt Green 12 pin Conn, Pin 8 3 pin White Harness (3pinW) 1 Yellow/Black N/A 2 Yellow/Red N/A 3 Yellow [Hood Status (-) Output] ------------------ RS:H5/1 Grey (-) [Negative Safety Shut Down for Hood Switch] 7 Pin White Harness (7pinW) 1 BROWN / Red [Ground] ------------- Car:Grounded to Body (with 10pinW:5 Purple / YELLOW [Ground] 2 BROWN / Yellow [Doorlock] ------------------------- IBM3: pinB:1 WHITE/ Black 3 ORANGE / Black [Key Data] ------------ Car: Green [Data (in Ignition Databus)] @ front of Key Cylinder Green 7 pin Conn, Pin 3 4 ORANGE / White N/A 5 Orange [SWC – Steering Wheel Control?] ------------- Car: Lt Green [SWC (in Doorlock Databus?)] @ front of Key Cylinder Green 7 pin Conn, Pin 4 *(this is the wire the Omegalink bypass diagram shows me although The wiring list form Bulldog lists things differently) 6 Pink/Black N/A 7 Pink [Ignition (+) Input] ---------- Car: Red [Ignition (in Ignition Databus)] @ front of Key Cylinder Green 7 pin Conn, Pin 2 BullDog Deluxe 500 Remote Start Wiring: [B}H1/__ White 6 pin Harness 1 VIOLET [Starter Output] --------------- IBM: 10pinW: 8 BLACK/ White [Starter (+) Input] 2 RED [ (+) 12 v Input] with 20Amp fuse--------------- Car: 12 VOLT CONSTANT / WHITE (+) @ / IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 3 3 RED [ (+) 12 v Input] with 20Amp fuse --------------- Car: 12 VOLT CONSTANT / WHITE (+) @ / IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 3 4 YELLOW [Ignition 1 Output] -------------- IGNITION 1 / YELLOW (+) / @ IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 6 5 PINK [Ignition 2 Output] ------------ ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2 / RED (+) / @ IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 5 6 BROWN [Acc/Heater Output] ------------ ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 / ORANGE (+) /@ IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 4 H2/__ 5White 5 pin Harness 1 RED / WHITE [Parking Light Relay Power Input] with 10Amp fuse --------- (Not connected to anything except the 10Amp fuse it’s in line with to 12 V + Power) 2 WHITE [Parking Light Relay Output] ------------ (Not connected to anything yet as I didn’t figure out the parking lights, but didn’t need it to test the other wires) 3 BLACK [Ground to Vehicles Body] ------------ IBM: 4pinB: 3 Black [Ground] 4 BROWN [ (-) Horn Output] --------------- Car: HORN / ORANGE (-) @ / HORN SWITCH, (WHITE, 20-Pin Plug) Pin 1 5 RED [ (+) 12 v Input] with 3Amp fuse----------- Car: 12 VOLT CONSTANT / WHITE (+) @ / IGNITION SWITCH, (BROWN, 7- Pin Plug) Pin 3 H3 – N/A [B}H4 – 4 pin Antenna H5/__ Black 9 pin Harness 1 GREY [ (-) Negative Safety Shut Down for Hood pin Switch] --------- IBM: 3pinW: 3 Yellow [Hood Status (-) Output] 2 BROWN / RED [ (+) Positive Safety Shut Down for Brake] ------------ Car: BRAKE / LIGHT GREEN (+) / @ BRAKE SWITCH (*NOT DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 14 *(There are 2 Lt Green wires at the Brake switch. I connected it to the one towards the passenger’s side) 3 Thin BLACK [ (-) Neutral Safety Switch to Body Ground] ------------- (through magnetic reed switch) -------------Car: Grounded on Body 4 BLUE/WHITE – N/A 5 GREY/BLACK [ (-) Diesel Wait to Start Input] -----------X (Not Connected) 6 GREEN [ (-) Negative Door pin Input] ------------- IBM: 10pinW: 9 Green [Door/Trunk Status (-) Output] 7 VIOLET [ (+) Positive Door pin Input] ----------X (Not Connected) 8 WHITE/ BLACK [ (-) Instant Start & Turn off Input] -------------X (Not Connected) 9 VIOLET/WHITE [ Tach Input] ------------- *(through hole in firewall of passenger’s side) -------------- Car: LT BLUE Wire in hosing to fuel injectors on drive’s side of engine *(I tested this wire with a multimeter and it shows increased AC voltage with accelerating on the gas; I’ve seen this wire listed in wiring diagrams for the Fit by other companies; I could have connected to one of the fuel injector wires, but couldn’t get a good reading on the multimeter like I did with this) H6/__ White 6 pin (2 wires) Harness 1 BLUE [ (-) Unlock Output, (+) Lock Output] --------- IBM: 10pinW: 2 Blue/Black [Unlock/Disarm (-) Input] 2 GREEN [ (+) Unlock Output, (-) Lock Output] ---------- IBM: 10pinW: 1 GREEN/ Black [Lock/Arm (-) Input] H7/__ White 10 pin Harness 1 BLUE/BLACK [ (-) 200mA Ignition 3 Control Output] -------- IBM: 4pinB: 1 Blue/White [GWR (-)] (Ground When Running) 2 BLACK/ VIOLET [ (-) 200 mA Channel 6 Programmable Output] ---------X (Not Connected) 3 BROWN / BLACK [ (-) 200mA Programmable Output : Horn Output OR FACTORY SECURITY REARM Out] ---------- Car: VIOLET (-) [OEM Alarm Arm] @ Dash fusebox Lt Green 12 Pin Conn, Pin 3 *(I used Omega’s Wiring instructions sheet to find this wire; I’m also wiring this for the Factory Security Rearm Output) 4 BLACK/ WHITE [ (-) 200mA Domelight Supervision Output] ---------- DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION / BLUE (-) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 8- Pin Plug) Pin 7 5 BLACK/ RED [ (-) 200mA Channel 5 Programmable Output] -------X (Not Connected) 6 PURPLE / BLACK [ (-) 200 mA Programmable Output: Channel 4 Output OR Ground Output during crank] ---------X (Not Connected) 7 RED / WHITE [ (-) 200 mA Channel 3 –Trunk- Output] -----------X (Not Connected) (As there’s no latch release wiring trigger for the fit trunk, just the manual latch on the trunk itself) 8 LT GREEN/ BLACK [ (-) Dual pulse door unlock output OR –FACTORY DISARM OUTPUT – OR Start status shock sensor bypass control output] ---------- FACTORY ALARM DISARM / GREEN (-), NOTE #2 / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 4 *( I’m using this for the Factory Disarm output) 9 ORANGE / WHITE [ (-) 200 mA Grounded output when disarmed] ---------X (Not Connected) 10 ORANGE [ (-) 500mA Grounded output when armed] ---------X (Not Connected) H8 – Blue 2 pin Valet/Program Button H9 – White 2 pin LED

The bypass is connected in Hardwire mode (wires connected individually, rather than using the Data-to-Data cable, as the Bulldog doesn’t support seem to have a 4 pin plug to support this). I confirmed 12v in all my 12v wires from remote starter and bypass. I was able to get both the bypass and remote started to power on. I used both bypasses in turn, and they show either a red solid LED or flashing green LED after turning off the ignition. I was able to get the remote starter to try to start the car once, but the interior dash lights just flashed until I unplugged the power to the remote starter and bypass, but the car did not try to turn over. My bypasses were flashed for a Honda Fit 2009-2011, but the print out from being flashed showed that there was no installation type selected. I'm wondering if this could be part of the problem. I'm using a hardwire installation, and there is also a data-to-data (D2D) type of installation which the Bulldog is not compatible with as it doesn't have a 4 in D2D port. I tried another day to see if I could get things working. Same wiring connections. When I turn the key to "ON" the "key" dashlight indicator comes on, but not every time. If I try to start the car when this light's flashing it won't start. When the light doesn't flash, the car starts normally.   The bypass LED stays lit GREEN for 2 seconds after taking the key out of the ignition each time. The car works normally after disconnecting the starter and bypass, and entering the radio security code due to the battery disconnection I performed as if I never did anything to the car aside from the harness wires being cluttered and hidden. I have another remote start unit to try to connect as well, but haven't opened t to try it out as I may return it if I can't get this one working. Questions: .......Overall what am I doing wrong? I have more specific questions below. 1. How to wire the bypass module (see diagram) – left side of wiring diagram shows wiring directly to remote starter (4pinB, 10pinW) with ground being the exception. Is this correct or do these connections need to be made to the car as well? ( I did connect the 12v wires form the RS and IBM to a 12v wire in the car cause they obviously need to get power. Are any other wires from the IBM to the RS also supposed to be connected to something else? such as a ground?0 2. Do I need to connect the harnesses to the IBM in any specific order? – such as 4pinB/data (which has power) then the others? 3. There’s nothing connected to the STARTER / PINK (+) / @ IGNITION SWITCH since the IBM connects to the Red [Ignition (in Ignition Databus)] @ front of Key Cylinder Green 7 pin Conn, Pin 2 Should something be connected to the PINK starter wire of the Ignition switch? Or is the Ignition Databus sufficient? 4. How do I wire the H2/2 Parking Light Relay Output?   Which parking light wire is this connected to? ….PARKING LIGHTS (-) / GRAY (-) / @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, (BLACK/ WHITE, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 11? This wire is close to the wiring for the airbags, and I’ don’t want them to go off. or does this get connected to PARKING LIGHTS (+) / GRAY (+) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 42? 5. Is the hood pin switch from the RS supposed to be connected to the bypass as I did above? Or does that go the the hood pin switch after mounting it under the hood? If I mount it and connect it to the hood, then where does the IBM: 3pinW: 3 Yellow [Hood Status (-) Output] connect? 6. Are these Omega and iDatalink bypasses compatible with the Bulldog Remote Starter? Bulldog's site lists the DBALL as the bypass it uses, but I asked another installer who I bought these bypasses from and he said I could use the Omega/iDatalink. I ordered an Xpresskit DBALL which I may try to wire next. I also have an XK Loader 2 to flash it with. I'm also waiting for an OL Loader to check the firmware of the Omega/iDatalink's and flash them and try them as well. Feel free to address/answer any of these questions if you don’t want to tackle the whole thing. This post is for people who are interest in actually installing remote starters. It’s not about why you shouldn’t install on a MT or why you shouldn’t self install. Please be constructive and help us all out at the same time.

The remote starter makes noise when I hit unlock or lock and will show "armed" when lock is pressed, but the doors don't physically lock or unlock. When lock is pressed twice, the horn chirps 3 times (so I know the horn is connected). The lock and unlock buttons only work (make noise from the RS, not actually physically lock/unlock the doors0 after pulling the key out of the ignition and don't do anything after like 30 seconds from pulling the key out of the ignition.

I checked some of the wiring with a multimeter (black lead to vehicle ground, red lead to wire being tesed) and here's what I found: PARKING LIGHTS (+) / GRAY (+) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 42 showed: +12v when parking brake lights are lit (shows 0v when off) POWER LOCK / LIGHT BLUE (TYPE B) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 8 showed: 0v when the lock button is pressed/held (shows +12v at rest) POWER UNLOCK / GRAY (TYPE B) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 1 showed: 0v when the unlock button is pressed/held (shows +12v at rest) DOOR TRIGGER / BLUE (-) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 33 showed: 0v when the door trigger pin is pressed/held/door closed (+ 12v at rest with door open) DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION / BLUE (-) / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 8- Pin Plug) Pin 7 showed: + 5v when door closed (and lights dimed) +12v when door closed & dome light shuts off 0v when door closed & dome light on. HORN / ORANGE (-) @ / HORN SWITCH, (WHITE, 20-Pin Plug) Pin 1 showed: 0v when horn pressed/sounds (+12v at rest) TACH this is the light blue wire I found in a wire loom to the driver's side of the injector harnesses showed: +12v DC with engine off (yes DC!) +14v DC with engine running (yes DC!) + 0.4v AC @ 1000 rpm + 0.9v AC @ 2000 rpm + 1.4v AC @ 3000 rpm + 2.0v AC @ 4000 rpm BRAKE / LIGHT GREEN (+) / @ BRAKE SWITCH or DASH FUSE BOX, (GREEN / WHITE, 49-Pin Plug) Pin 14 showed: +12v when brake pedal pressed (0v at rest) - this was the same for both lt green wires at the brake pedal FACTORY ALARM DISARM / GREEN (-), NOTE #2 / @ DASH FUSE BOX, (LT.GREEN, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 4 showed: +10.9-11.0v DV momentarily when unlock or lock pressed but returned to resting voltage wen continued to be held (+11.3 to 11.5v DC at rest) I also tested the custom neutral safety switch and parking brake wire (factory): Custom Neutral safety switch: 0 when grounded (in neutral); 1 ohm when open (in gear) Orange Parking E-brake: showed 1 ohm when the brake was disengaged; 0 when brake engaged @ e-brake light on

You have done an excellent job researching info for this install.  If this is your first install, you have a good handle on the process.

The major unique issue for you will be the vehicles manual transmission.  While I am slightly familiar with the more commonBulldog R/S units ( RS1100 & RS1200 ), I have not used your Deluxe 500 system.  The bypass module ( ADS DLSL HA ) is a goodchoice, which I have used before, and will perform flawlessly, once properly connected & programmed.

First a few things noticed in your wiring :

The ADS DLSL HA Hood Status output will only work if the Fit was fitted with a Factory Hood Pin sensor.  If your vehicle does not have

the Factory sensor, then install the R/S supplied pin and connect the wire directly to the R/S ( not bypass ).

As you noted, theTrunk release will only work if the vehicle has a non-mechanical trunk release.

There are two plugs at the ignition switch, the Green transponder plug and the Brown main ignition switch plug.  The bypass will

go to the Green transponder plug and the R/S heavy gauge wires will go to the Brown ignition harness.

R/S H1/1 Starter output must also go to Fit Starter wire, Pink  (+)  @ Ignition switch, brown 7 pin plug, pin 1 ( as well as bypass module ).

R/S H2/3 must also go to Chassis Ground.

Parking Lights - Try to use the (-) Parking Light wire   Gray  -  headlight switch, BLACK/ white 12 pin plug, pin 11.  Connect H2/1 to Chassis

Ground and H2/2 to the Fits' Gray wire.

R/S H4/7 might not be needed.  Does the domelight come on when the Unlock button is pressed?

Sequentially, it is best to mate the bypass module to the R/S on the bench.  The bypass module can only use the D2D comm if the R/S

supports that protocol.  The Bulldog does not but W2W typically works better in almost all situations.  

After connecting the bench prepped unit to all the correct wires in the car, and before installing the fuses to power up the R/S

assembly, I usually disconnect all the harnesses to the bypass module.  Then install the fuses, and perform the bypass Factory Resetprocedure detailed on page 10 of the install guide (#8407).  However, after Step 5, go to the top of Page 9 and perform the "Installation Mode Selection" procedure ( two blinks for W2W ) and lock it in.  Then back to Step 6 of the Factory Reset procedureand finish that.  At this point, go to Page 9 and do the 5 Step Programming Procedure.  Make sure the bypass module respondsin accordance with the install guide at each step.  At this point the bypass is programmed to the vehicle and should be able to accept the Lock & Unlock command from the R/S. 

As mentioned the main "problem" areas will be the clutch bypass and setting the R/S to manual transmission mode and getting into

"Reservation Mode" to be able to perform a remote start.  You can do some testing by manually depressing the clutch pedal, etc.

I have noticed on other Bulldog R/S units ( RS1100 ), that they don't Tach Learn weak signals ( F.I. or coil on a Gen3 CR-V ).  I believe

Tach Mode is required on a Manual Transmission install.  Tach mode is usually the best way to R/S a vehicle, especially in coldclimates.  Not sure of the R/S Tach Learn process for your Bulldog system.

Soldering is fun!

Generally with Kregg on this but I think grounding or a bad one is the problem ALL blacks except H5/3 to a good ground, usually one of the M6 (10mm spanner size) in the driver side kick panel. Scrape the paint underneath and use M6 crimped ring terminals, some people will even solder on top of crimping or use the very expensive sealed splice, heat after crimping. If you used a $5 crimp tool from Walmart throw it away. A compound ratchet device is the way to go other wise the Ampliversal Champ. Solder all your other joints, no other type is acceptable. There are some very good "how to" posts on the "art of soldering" in the General Topics section. Sorry if I'm lecturing but you seem to have taken exceptionable care and it would be silly to loose everything because of a bad joint. Also try disconnecting the by-pass, unplug it, leave a key in the ignition and then try your remote start, if it works then your problem is the by-pass. Dome light... does this stay on when you shut the door for about 30 seconds but fade away about 3 seconds after locking the doors? If so you won't need domelight supervision. Pin switches, does your instrument panel have warning lights for hatch and or door open, if so these are the best places to pick up your door and trunk triggers, switched side of the warning lights as these aren't affected by time delays, i.e. they shut down immediately door or hatch is closed. If it's anything like a Civic it's a 2 minute job (2 screws for the cowling, 4 for the cluster) to pull the cluster, incidentally any blue wire going to cluster is your tach. There might even be space behind to mount the R/S!

P.S. Probably silly because the flickering instruments point to power loss either from a bad joint or bad ground; but have you by-passed the clutch switch? Incidentally Kregg for your trivial knowledge this vehicle is called a "JAZZ" in Europe.

And to bore the pair of you to tears, its called a "Fit" in Japan, china and North and South America. Jazz in the rest of the world. Manufactured in Japan at two plants. China. Brazil. Thailand. Indonesia. UK. India. Philippines. Usually driven in the UK by older people and very slowly, bit like a Yaris, usually give me road rage as they trundle along. Isn't Wiki wonderful? And Ford claims the Fiesta/Focus and their Mazda Land Rover and Volvo. GM with their Regal (Vauxhall/Opel Insignia, Saab 9-3) as world cars?

I skipped a bunch of your posts, but there is one thing I noticed and maybe I'm just misunderstanding your setup. For the neutral safety switch (to ensure it does not start in gear) you said that you "installed a magnetic reed switch and rare earth magnet under the clutch to ground the Neutral Safety Switch wire when in neutral. I’ve tested this circuit with an LED for a week before installing it, and the circuit works as it should." Judging by this description, you simply have a circuit that confirms when the clutch is pressed in... which the vehicle already has a factory clutch wire that does just that (which needs to be temporarily bypassed for remote start). In order to ensure the vehicle cannot start in gear, you would either need to get a MT ready remote start that requires a sequence to activate MT mode, or you would need to use the reed switch in the shifter so that it will ONLY show ground when in neutral. Judging by your description, if you bypass the clutch and get it to remote start, there is nothing preventing the car from starting while in gear and taking off through your garage, a neighbors garage, or hitting somebody walking by. Get a proper remote start and do it the right way.. for the sake of yourself, your car, and your neighbors.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

You might have a point there Kenny I ASS of U and MEd that our poster meant NOT going to ground in any gear but again that wouldn't disable the R/S if it was always seeing ground, also can people especially junior members differentiate between "in gear" and clutch switches.