beginners first rs 2003 accord

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fiveohh

Member - Posts: 13

Joined: November 26, 2007

Posted: November 26, 2007 at 11:08 AM / IP Logged

I've installed plenty of stereos and would consider my self pretty good at electronics, but I've never installed a remote starter and curious how much work is involved. I've decided on a compustar 2w900fmr and have been digging around for a bit and found the idatalink ADS-DLSL HA for a bypass kit.

I'm hoping I can get some input on how much more work is entailed for the install. The main thing I want out of the deal is 2way to tell me that the car is started and remote start.

Thanks

peterubers

Silver - Posts: 706

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Joined: December 29, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 26, 2007 at 12:37 PM / IP Logged

Read this link:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=92195&KW=PeterUbers

The search function is your friend.

KarTuneMan

Platinum - Posts: 7,056

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: December 14, 2004

Location: Isle Of Man

Posted: November 26, 2007 at 1:22 PM / IP Logged

PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT

YES

TRANSPONDER

SEE NOTES

12 VOLTS

RED (CN1)

White

Ignition switch harness

IGNITION

GREEN (CN2)

BLACK / YELLOW

Ignition switch harness

ACCESSORY

BLACK/ red

Ignition switch harness

STARTER

PURPLE (CN2) + Relay for cut

BLACK/ white

Ignition switch harness

KEY SENSE

RED / white

Ignition switch harness

TACH SIGNAL

SEE NOTES

Locate the PCM at the front floor of the center console. Remove the plastic cover on the passenger side to expose the connectors. On the 4 cylinder use Blue/red at pin 25 of the white plug. On the V6 use Blue at at pin 23 of the gray plug.

FUEL INJECTOR

Opposite of BLACK / YELLOW

At any injector on engine

LOCK

BLUE/BLACK (CN4)

Pink/black

In green plug on left side of fusepanel

These wires are mastered from the passenger side switch, test wires using that switch.

UNLOCK

BLUE (CN4)

Pink/blue

In green plug on left side of fusepanel

These wires are mastered from the passenger side switch, test wires using that switch.

DOORPIN

RED / WHITE(-) or RED(+) (CN3)

GREEN/ red

In green connector behind fusepanel

HOODPIN

GRAY/BLACK (CN3)

Yellow/red

At hoodlatch in engine compartment

TRUNK PIN

VIOLET/BLACK (CN3)

Blue/black

In driver's kickpanel (harness to rear)

TRUNK RELEASE

VIOLET/WHITE (-) (CN4)

YELLOW /GREEN

In driver's kickpanel (harness to rear)

FACTORY ARM

Tie to Lock wire (diode isolate)

WHITE/ red

At driver's door controller

This module is part of the switch assembly inside the driver's door. You must run 2 wires through the door jamb boot.

FACTORY DISARM

Tie to Unlock wire (diode isolate)

White

At driver's door controller

This module is part of the switch assembly inside the driver's door. You must run 2 wires through the door jamb boot.

BRAKESWITCH

WHITE/ black

At switch above brake pedal

PARKLIGHTS

GREEN / WHITE (+) (CN1) or (-) (CN2)

RED / black

White plug at top of fusebox or DKP

HORN

N/A

GREEN/ YELLOW

At steering column

VSS WIRE

Blue/white

top of transmission

TRANSPONDER IGNITION

BLACK / YELLOW

At 7-pin plug on Ignition switch assembly

TRANSPONDER DATA 1

RED / blue

Pin-2 at 7-Pin connector

DATA

TRANSPONDER GROUND

BROWN / yellow

Pin-1 at 7-Pin connector

beginners first rs 2003 accord -- posted image.

Available Notes

Vehicle Notes

PLEASE NOTE: This vehicle is equipped with a TRANPONDER passive anti-theft system. Please refer to the appropriate security diagram before any remote start installation.

Additional Notes

Drivers doorpin-dark green, passenger doorpin-lt GREEN/ red, rear drivers-dk GREEN/ YELLOW, rear passenger-dk GREEN / WHITE (Drivers kick panel)

fiveohh

Member - Posts: 13

Joined: November 26, 2007

Posted: November 26, 2007 at 9:19 PM / IP Logged

Thanks for the info. My main question is: If I get that module, I shouldn't have to tap into any other wires(besides the ones to hook the module up)to get remote start and lock/unlock (along with the status of them for 2-way).

Thanks again, your advice is appreciated!

peterubers

Silver - Posts: 706

Joined: December 29, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 27, 2007 at 2:28 PM / IP Logged

The module is a dream come true .. I installed a r/s in an Acura TL in under 2 hours thanks to the CAN-SL and Honda-SL2 modules .. and less than two hours with soldering and taping off every connection including running a tach into the engine bay is GOOD for me (I know others out there can do it faster). I saved most of my time thanks to not having to pry the door trim off to access the doorlocks, and hunt for trunk wires and door/trunk pins ..

The search function is your friend.

fiveohh

Member - Posts: 13

Joined: November 26, 2007

Posted: December 03, 2007 at 11:13 PM / IP Logged

Just received my 2w900fmr, had to ebay it since I live in rural MN and no retailers near here. I'm still waiting on my idatalink module, but have a few preliminary questions about this wiring. Where does the module get its power from? The diagrams show it having an output for power/ground to the RS brain, but it only has inputs of data, ignition, doorlock info, and security led in/out. Is their a separate power input not listed on the diagrams, or does it pull its power off one of the inputs I listed?

Thanks in advance, hopefully I'll have the module by this weekend, and will be able to start the install before temps stay sub zero:P

fiveohh

Member - Posts: 13

Joined: November 26, 2007

Posted: December 04, 2007 at 12:05 AM / IP Logged

Think I looked at that wrong. Looks like the module gets its power tapped off the brains power, I think... I'm also curious why the module needs the security led i/o's. I think I'll hold any further questions till I get the actual module:D

Thanks

fiveohh

Member - Posts: 13

Joined: November 26, 2007

Posted: December 06, 2007 at 6:46 PM / IP Logged

K, got the module and planning on starting this tomorrow, working through the wiring I'm wondering where I should both the two +12v for the CM4200 brain. Can I pull them both off the ignition harness? or is there a better idea?

I also see that the idatalink module has a starter input. I'm planning on wiring the brain straight off the ignition harness, so I have the anti-grind working anyway, but just curious if theres an advantage to using the idatalinks starter input.

Again, thanks in advance. I'm planning on getting some photos of the entire install for a tutorial for another forum(I'll post the link here as well). So hopefully this can help some others in the future.

peterubers

Silver - Posts: 706

Joined: December 29, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: December 06, 2007 at 9:08 PM / IP Logged

You can tie in both of the CM4200's power wires to the ignition harness of the vehicle.

The search function is your friend.

marinekilz

Member - Posts: 14

Joined: December 07, 2007

Location: New York, United States

Posted: December 07, 2007 at 12:47 PM / IP Logged

OK I am looking at doing a exact same project on a 03 accord ex v6. How did that mod and bypass work for you?? And any hints or thing you ran into would be helpfully too

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