Your absolutely right and hit the nail on the head-admittedly I am a newby in electrics.
The point being made, on the net and instructionally is the knowledge known and what's not. RULE always know what you do and double check with electrics, that is all I am doing, amongst collecting tidbits for knowledge base.
But take this post from another site to read.........
Ok here's a neat trick get 2 relays, one closed and one open, put them inline with one relay going to the low and the other going to the high. When power is applied with the switch in the off position the low beam will be energized, now when you flip over to your high beams you run power through the switch, this sends power to the closed and open relays, they'll swap positions, the closed switch on the low beam will open shutting it off, the open relay will close and send power to the high beam. I'll see if I can make it look right on here via keyboard schematics:
+ --------------------------------------- Closed Relay
+ ------------ switch ------------------ Closed Relay -- Low Beam ------ Ground
+ ------------ switch ----------------- Open Relay ----- High Beam ------- Ground
+ --------------------------------------- Open Relay
I don't know if that makes sense but the single switch sends power to both relays when energized they switch positions turning the on to an off and the off to an on. If you do it right you should be able to stuff the relays in behind the headlight, there should be enough room for them that way t still looks pretty clean.
......I also read the instructions of how to build the hella lights which didn't CLEARLY SHOW connections made on the headlight wire, I ended up making an individual system until now. The difference between learning and putting into action are not CLEAR as seen above (its just written), a different way to set the rig but is it more ethical to elaborate ,so, when basically you can do this, choosing the basic setup might be more sensible and less confusing. Information it might be but reading is all it is and easy to confuse.
Here is An answered question.....
"However there is a general working rule that the DESIGN should size fuses (etc?) to run at no more than 70& or 80% of their rating. Hence a 10A fuse for 7A to 8A current is ok.
Some would argue that the 12V @ 8.3A applies and hence choose a 15A fuse."
.....precisely, clearly why a fuse is now the most important consideration when making electrics, and as close to the power source as possible. Lesson learned straight away!.
My main question is not answered ,as a clear build, as each diagram I've seen complicates even more, this time the link to access connect.com would have sufficed but for the 87a which I don't have; the switch is linked to 87, yet on another it is linked to 85. This might come known to you as an easy but I have no idea why there's a difference or even if you CAN do that. Essentially it doesn't seem safe, hence my question.
Yes, the net taught me the positive comes off first...............
(I wouldn't set foot near the + until the neg was removed/made safe making it safe to drop the + if need be...the system is still alive with the neg in contact)
So don't feel like your wasting space with repetitive basics, make one paste for the answer of everything in it for the basic stuff, helpful accurate information is really needed when one is not sure.
It doesn't seem like the hi/lo will effectually make any difference connected to the suggested hi wire or lo wire as I had hoped so I'll make an alternative system, as long you can verify the switch is + to 85 and the use of relays can be with just one? Then were done, obviously the fuse is answered although I say that because a resetting circuit is better, getting one might be a trip to the city.
Thankyou for your help.