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2004 tundra double cab wiring pin/plug?


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bpowa 
Member - Posts: 29
Member spacespace
Joined: January 17, 2013
Location: United States
Posted: January 30, 2013 at 11:53 AM / IP Logged  
Awesome.. Howie what do you think I should add to the alarm?
Glass break, proximity sensor, or tilt sensor..
I was thinking tilt or proximity. not both.
My truck is nothing special.. no wheels.. I haul my motorcycles to the track overnight trips, and have my work laptop, etc.. in the cab.. its the main reason, I got the alarm.
Larry
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Posted: January 30, 2013 at 12:00 PM / IP Logged  
Prox*, or even a single zone prox in the load area.
If you have standard wheels, no point in having a tilt sensor.
*If you go for a dual zone, try and mount it inside to the rear roof, should cover your load area. You will have to extend the 4 wires.
bpowa 
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Joined: January 17, 2013
Location: United States
Posted: February 02, 2013 at 10:30 PM / IP Logged  
Well. The alarm works. Engine start works. But I an not getting signal from the parking lights. I tapped into th headlight ( green) wire. But no flashes. Also i hooked up a relay according to the diagram, into the door loom. Door unlocks not does not lock.
Any ideas?
Larry
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
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Posted: February 03, 2013 at 9:31 AM / IP Logged  
Make sure the jumper fuse is set for NEG output on the white wire and test.
bpowa 
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Joined: January 17, 2013
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Posted: February 03, 2013 at 2:54 PM / IP Logged  
The jumper works. Lights work. When I jumper to positive.
. However the door lock still only locks but don't unlock.    It's kicking my ass struggling with it. Any other tips?
Larry
bpowa 
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Posted: February 04, 2013 at 4:33 PM / IP Logged  
Anyone out there for input?
Larry
soundnsecurity 
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Posted: February 04, 2013 at 5:08 PM / IP Logged  
what wire did you use for the lock function? did you test the wire with a volt meter? how did you test it and what kind of reading do you get?
bpowa 
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Joined: January 17, 2013
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Posted: February 04, 2013 at 5:30 PM / IP Logged  
I used the lt.GREEN/ black for the lock wire. the wire tested 1.625v it spikes up slightly to 1.645v or so when I press the lock button.
Is there another way I should be testing it?
Larry
soundnsecurity 
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Posted: February 04, 2013 at 7:33 PM / IP Logged  
a tiny voltage spike is not what you are looking for when you test lock wires. if they are negative trigger then you are looking for the wire to rest at 5 or 12 volts depending on the system and the wire will drop close to 0 volts when you press the lock switch. this is with the black lead of the meter hooked to a ground source and using the red lead to test the wire. some lock systems need to be tested by turning the key in the door's key cylinder and not the switch.
not only that, did you use the relay and diodes that are shown in the lock diagram? the wires you are looking for are at the drivers door switch but they need to be wired exactly like in the diagram or it wont work.
bpowa 
Member - Posts: 29
Member spacespace
Joined: January 17, 2013
Location: United States
Posted: February 04, 2013 at 10:42 PM / IP Logged  
Ok. But I think the lock spiked up. More than the negative.   I think it maybe a alarm programing
The wires are tapped from the door lock switch. Meaning the wires under the driver side door lock button and power window.   Is this correct?
I wires the door just like the diagram.
I thought i programmed the alarm to double pulse unlock. Is this correct?
Larry
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