2004 tundra double cab wiring pin/plug?

Well I cannot find anything on this truck searching the net. As if no one ever really did a DIY.. Sound like everyone is using a bypass.   I would have went with one if I knew ahead of time. I dont want to install a bypass when I only have one issue I have to complete..Larry

can you take some pictures of how you wired the locks at the switch? it would help me figure it out for you. do the locks work like normal with the switch.

Disconnect the lock and unlock leads from your R/S. Take your DMM,set it to 20VDC, place the red probe on a constant source and place the black probe on the lock and unlock wires in sequence then lock and unlock with the remote. You should get a 12VDC reading each time. If not the R/S is faulty. If you do, then the R/S is OK, so repeat this test at the joins in the door. If not your wiring is faulty, bad join, open circuit etc. If OK then ground each join in turn. If that locks and unlocks the vehicle, look again at how you did the relay, diode position, etc. I'm assuming soldered joints or all bets are off.

here is a picture from door panel control.. please let me know if I have it correct.. I will try to find time to test the wires.. Larry

sorry.. I cant post pic.. here is a link Larry

your negative unlock that goes to the RED / yellow wire needs to go the the other side of the wire when it gets split with the relay. other than that the only other problem i see is that you are using T-taps for your connections, this could cause a connection problem because they dont contact the wire tight enough sometimes. and make sure your diodes are facing the right way, the stripe needs to go towards the alarm.

Well from my picture above the controller is to the left side, and the motor is to the right.. Its the opposite to the diagram.. Can you confirm? Those t taps were there prior. But I use them to tap in temporary. I will make solid connections when all the wiring is correct and tuck neatly.Larry

And you will get constantly recurring problems with those T-taps. Loose them and solder now.

no, if you look at the diagram carefully it has the motor AND switch on the same side. it says motor on top and switch on the bottom. the part that says motor is a separate part of the diagram

Yes.. I will try that out.. Diagram is better than the other 1070 I saw. But For the armature installer like myself its hard to determine. Thanks I will try that out.. Hopefully in the next couple days..Larry