wiring remote start + dei alarm 8th civic

Hey hey ! It was the bloody white plug ! DBALL2 is now programmed. it went green for 3 seconds and orange! according to the manual I am now programmed. The next thing Im having an issue with is the lock/unlocking via D2D. The lock unlock wires are on the DBALL2, i used this particular diagram to try to get to the wires. I found those two wires in the same pins. I connected up a multimeter and each wire was showing about 11 volts, and the voltage would drop when i either unlocked or locked (respectively). Now that the viper and DBALL2 are connected together via D2D, im trying to use one of the viper remotes to lock/unlock. but nothing is happening. Some of the wiring diagrams mention a location in the kick panel, white 18 pin plug. But im not sure which plug they are talking about. I could not find one that was specifically 18. Thats why i went with the back of the fuse box. Let me know where I should be looking for the lock/unlock wires. ------------ My second question is about programming the viper with the menus. kreg357 mentioned having to go into the viper menus to changes a few settings. Do i need a bitwriter for this, or can this be done in some other way? 998T -------- Also I have not tested the remote start part of this setup.

Again, my info will differ but:- Never been able to get at the plug shown in right hand drive versions there are two white plugs in a recess in the kick panel, go for the bigger plug and here's how you test. Throw away the DMM grab a Stanley knife and a good test light with an incandescent bulb*, not LED, such as Snap-On or MAC, then ground the clip end of the test light, knife blade just breaking the insulation on each wire of the BIGGER plug and test light probe to the knife blade. At the same time, key should not be in the ignition. I've made the locks work from both Viper (failed DB-ALL2) and the DB-ALL. *Old school but faffing around with a DMM on any relay trigger such as locks is IMO a bloody waste of time. The incandescent bulb will safely pull enough current to trigger the locks. You won't need a bitwriter, all the programming functions you need are flashed on the DB-ALL. The only programming you will need to do and it takes seconds, program tach. Change default to automatic transmission if yours is an auto and tach. Menu 3 level 1 and 2, options 2 and 3. See the quick reference sheet that comes in the Viper box.

I dont have a test light in my toolbox so im going to go and buy one real quick. Hopefully i can find one thats not LED...because it seems everyone one of them that I looked at online is (Hardware stores & automotive stores), we'll see. If once i find different wires and connect to them, the DBALL2 will still not lock/unlock. How would i proceed? I will also try to program today: Menu 3 level 1 and 2, options 2 and 3. (Automatic trans.) Menu 3, Item 8 to Option 2. because of what kreg357 said "The H3/7 Pink/White wire is known as the Flex Relay and has a selectable output. The Factory Default is Ignition2 but for your Civic you want it set to Accessory2."

Okay im back. Lock unlock works with the back of the fusebox fine! I wad able to program the two menus mentioned above. Issue now is the remotr start will not work. With a 2 way remote when I press the remote start button. It blinls red, and then after a few seconds gives a declined buzzer sound with a red light next to the function key. Not really sure whats going on. Also my tpms light is on, this is something new... not the low pressure symbol but the actual "TPMS" word, and it stays on. What did I break?

Forgot to mention. Im getting 7 flashes via parking lights also when trying to start, this is after the error tone from remote.

Got it. It was the neutral wire. I wasnt using it since I thought d2d would provide. I can start now. It sounded a little strange the first several times then got better. Now its just the tpms sensor and alarm sensor to plug in. (Ill have a few questions about those)

Guess what, I forgot; I had to ground the BLACK/ white as well because the DB-ALL and DB-ALL won't provide it. DEI seem to have a habit of not providing what's written on the box. Very common on Euro cars, VW, Euro GM etc. Always have to hardwire the hand brake (BLACK/ white) on manuals. As for that warning light I don't know which one it is but unplugging the gauges then ign and start I managed to through up the engine warning light. Cure? Disconnect the battery for 20 minutes.

Doing the rear defroster now. Took out stock headunit. Looking at 24 pin brown plug to ac controls. But it has multiple brown wires. Do you know which one I need for rear defroster ?

Uploaded from my phone. This is what im looking at

Tpms light still there after an hour w battery unplugged :(