the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

viper 5901, 2002 mazda protege 5, 5 spd


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
chriscollins 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2010
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: December 04, 2010 at 1:16 AM / IP Logged  
I think I get the door triggers and tach but how do I bypass the clutch? Do I tap into one of the wires on the neutral safety switch on the back of the pedal?
zerepdivad 
Silver - Posts: 605
Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: July 03, 2006
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: December 04, 2010 at 1:20 AM / IP Logged  
It depends you'll have to use your multimeter to test what exactly happens at the clutch switch when it's pressed. it varies by car.
A DMM is a beautiful thing.
MECP Advanced Installer Certified.
chriscollins 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2010
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: December 04, 2010 at 1:28 AM / IP Logged  
ok. so in the first harness i have wires h1/4,6,7,9,10,12 not being used or does the orange ground when armed output need to be used? 11 i need to figure out how to do the lights. In the second harness i think the only wires i need are the tach, brake, and neutral safety input. and the third harness i think i have figured out.
chriscollins 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2010
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: December 20, 2010 at 12:49 PM / IP Logged  
I finally got around to installing my system yesterday. Everything went rather well except I can't get the remote start to work. I had the reveiver inside the car learn the tach signal. I go through the manual trans shutdown procedure and the car stays running while I remove the key and exit the vehicle. As soon as I arm the system it shuts off. However a few seconds after I arm the system I get a "Remote Start Error", if I try to start the car I receive the same error message and 7light flashes. I don't understand how it can take over during the shutdown procedure but not start on it's own. Is there something else I need to program?
chriscollins 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2010
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: December 21, 2010 at 1:48 PM / IP Logged  

So after messing with it a little more, I got it to work. It seems that I was arming the system a little to early when exiting the car. By staying in the car while doing the exiting procedures I noticed that my door open light on the dash remained illuminated for a few seconds after I had closed the door. Waiting until the light went off and then arming the system seemed to take care of my issue. For my first install I think it went rather well. And to anyone who may find this in the future, I'll be posting the connections needed for this specific install in another post when I have more time in the next few days.

chriscollins 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2010
Location: Nebraska, United States
Posted: December 23, 2010 at 12:52 PM / IP Logged  

Here is a list of all the connections I made, anything not listed wasn't hooked up. So just cut them short to keep them out of your way and make it a little neater install.

H1/2 RED      (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT- To the BLACK/ white wire in the corner of the ign harness or the black wire in the ign harness. There are two BLACK/ white wires in the ign harness the other is the accessory.

H1/3 BROWN      (+) SIREN OUTPUT- to siren red wire
H1/5 BLACK       (-) CHASSIS GROUND- I grounded this with a stock ground right below the fuse box
H1/8 GREEN       (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT- To BLACK/ blue in drivers kick panel
H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE    (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT- Tie into H1/8 or run directly to same BLACK/ blue wire in the drivers kick panel
H1/1 WHITE       (-) PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT-To brown wire at headlight switch (don't forget to set the fuse polarity to (-) in the brain)

H2 HARNESS, 18pin connector

H2/8__BROWN / Black_____200mA Horn Honk Output-To BLACK/ red wire at steering column harness
H2/9__Violet/White_____Tachometer Input-To violet/white wire at diag port in engine bay. 
H2/10_Dark Blue_______200mA Status Output-To Clutch bypass relay in the diagram below.
H2/15_Grey___________Hood Pin Input-To the hood pin switch                                             
H2/17_Brown__________Brake Shutdown Input-To the GREEN/ YELLOW wire at the brake pedal
H2/18_Black White_____Neutral Safety Input-I wired it to the ebrake wire. Might also be wired into the pink/green wire on the transmission.
Heavy gauge remote start, 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT-To ignition 1 Blue (+), at the ignition harness
H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87-12v constant.Black or BLACK/ white wire at ign harness.
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT-To the BLACK/ white wire in the ign harness.There are TWO. NOT the one in the corner of the connector.
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)-Cut the BLACK/ blue wire at the ign harness. This goes to the car side.
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)-To the key side of the cut BLACK/ blue wire at the ign harness.
H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT-12v constant. Black or BLACK/ white wire in the corner of the ign harness connector.
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT-Ign 2 BLACK/ red at ign harness
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY

Door Lock connector

Blue Unlock-To light GREEN/ red at module high in drivers kick panel

Green Lock-To 1500 ohm resistor then tied into blue unlock wire

 

*Note-I read on two different sites that two relays are needed to hook up the door lock and unlock wires. So I ended up buying them. After speaking with someone who does this for a living he informed me that they wouldn't be needed. Just the resistor. So save yourself a little time and $15 and don't install these. My keyless works just fine without them.

*Note-You will however need a relay to bypass the clutch switch as shown below.

viper 5901, 2002 mazda protege 5, 5 spd - Page 2 - Last Post -- posted image.

Page of 2

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Saturday, June 15, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer