2005 Dodge GC, Avital 4105L, Xpresskit PKUMUX

In a previous post you mentioned checking that I had the PKUMUX wired correctly to the cut MUX wire at the ignition. Just to clarify, the PKUMUX violet/black wire would go to the PURPLE / brown wire that was attached to the connector (at ignition) after it was cut. I assume that is what is meant by switch side of the wire. If I have a key in the ignition, the R/S works fine. Would it work if I had this part wired wrong? I had ordered the PKUMUX from Amazon and it is easy to get a replacement, so no extra money lost. Just a couple of days waiting for it to arrive. I am going to try that first just to save myself some hassle and time. I have to be back at work Tuesday and kind of running out of time. If I have issues with it I will go your route and get the FLCAN. Are you referring to the one by Audiovox? https://www.amazon.com/Audiovox-FLCAN-Multi-Platform-Doorlock-Interface/dp/B002NENP8U One of the reviews mentions it comes preflashed with the Chrysler firmware. Does that sound correct? I thought they came "blank". I also see the idatalink ACLA: https://www.amazon.com/idatalink-ACLA-Remote-databus-Interfuse/dp/B001983S0Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482991791&sr=8-1&keywords=iDataLink+ADS-ALCA Are they the same unit? The Audiovox is a few dollars cheaper. If I go with one of these do I still need the relays/resistors for lights, door lock/unlock, and rear hatch pop? As far as wiring into the van and connecting to the 4105 R/S are they extremely different than the PKUMUX? I do IT work for a living and this is becoming more frustrating than anything I have done in regards to my job. :-) Must say this has a bit of a learning curve.

The van would still start OK with the key if the Starter MUX wire connections were reversed, but would not start with the remote starter. If you can get another PKUMUX for free, go for it. If you are having problems getting the minivan into position to accept a new transponder chip ( proper response at Step 5 ), then a another PKUMUX might not be the answer. As a side note, you can use a plain cut metal key from a hardware store ( no chip ) at Steps 7 & 8. The FLCAN is a re-branded iDatalink ADS AL-CA module. Audiovox OEM's them and they are loaded and packaged for use with R/S systems that use DBI D2D like your Viper. The FLC type firmware is the same as the DBI firmware. You could also get the ADS AL-CA and have it flashed with the DBI CH6 firmware, it would be the same as the FLCAN w/FLC CH6 firmware. The FLCAN with FLC CH6 firmware does many more functions than the PKUMUX. Here is a link to the install guide : http://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-CH6/FLC-AL(DL)-CH6_20110829.pdf As noted in the Features Chart on Page 2, it will handle the transponder, locks, alarm system, power lift gate and sliding doors*. It will also supply a Tach and Brake signal. This will greatly simplify your in-vehicle wiring. I'm not sure why, but the ADS AL-CA w/DBI CH6 firmware will do all of that and handle the sliding doors via the D2D connection while the FLCAN needs the sliding doors interconnection made via hardwire. Follow the Type 2 diagram. * You would need a R/S system with extra AUX outputs to handle the sliding doors. Your 4105 does not have those extra AUX outputs. For those minivans with power sliding doors and a power hatch, I use a Prestige APS687E system that has a 5 button remote and those extra AUX outputs. You would still need the relays and resistors for the Parking Lights and Trunk Release ( if you don't have the power liftgate ). The door locks would be handled by the FLCAN, so no need for those relays. The PKUMUX only handles the transponder bypass and the Starter MUX wire. The FLCAN does that and a bunch more. The FLCAN talks to the minivan via the J1850 connection. If the Viper 4105 DBI D2D connection works properly, it handles a lot of interconnections between the modules. This will cut down on wiring and save time. Yes, a big learning curve. Not exactly the same as strapping a modem or downloading parameters to a router but some very similar functions. J1850 is old like RS232 BiSync while CAN Bus data is newer like 802. But it's still all 1's and 0's. Soldering is fun!

I received the new PKUMUX today and swapped it out. Programmed on the first try and the R/S now works. The only issue I have now is the rear hatch. I found the PURPLE / tan wire at the BCM plug 2 pin 6 but no luck. I hear the relay click when pressing the trunk button on R/S remote.

Does the rear hatch lock and unlock with a regular Lock and Unlock command? Do you have a power rear hatch?Soldering is fun!

Yes, the rear hatch locks / unlocks with the regular lock / unlock command from the factory remote and R/S remote. No it is not a power hatch, must be manually opened and closed.

On those style Grand Caravans, the non-power rear hatch locks and unlocks with the doors. The factory remote FOB's only have a Lock and Unlock button ( plus the Panic button ). There is no Trunk release button on the Factory FOB's. I have never tried to get the rear hatch to unlock independently. I give a demonstration to the customer showing how the Unlock button unlocks all the doors & hatch and the due to this the Trunk Release button on the R/S remotes is not needed, just like on the Factory Remotes.Soldering is fun!

I was hoping I could pop the latch with the R/S remote and then the rear hatch gas lifts would open it. Just like using the button on the rear hatch by hand. If not, then I would use the R/S remote trunk button to turn on rear defrost. I know there is a combo of two buttons for rear defrost but the single button would be easier for my wife to remember. Would I tap into rear defrost wire at the switch in dash? Do I need relay resistors like the lights and door lock? If so, how would I wire relay and what resistors do I need?

Sorry, I have no info on the Rear Defrost for that vehicle.Soldering is fun!