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Rewiring Door Speakers


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GasGuzz 
Member - Posts: 25
Member spacespace
Joined: March 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 17, 2004 at 10:16 AM / IP Logged  

Hello Neighbors,

I would like to abandon the wimpy 18ga OEM front door speaker wires, and install new heavier wiring.

Well, I don't see how I could push/pull new wire through the factory gooseneck boot between the door and car body.

What's the alternative, drill (OMG) and install a new flex boot/conduit?

What kinda' watts can you push through the factory speaker wires?

Thanks.

jugga-nemo 
Copper - Posts: 81
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 19, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 17, 2004 at 10:34 AM / IP Logged  
I used a coat hanger that I bent straight with a hook on the end to hold onto the wire that I was running.  The rubber just pops out of the door and body (like any other grommet) and pops back in with ease also.  The toughest part that I encountered was pulling the hanger back through the rubber after I got the wire through.  You could drill a new hole, but it only took me about 20-30 minutes to get the wire through the gooseneck (first time I've done that).
5.25" Components & 5x7 Coax Kappas w/Power Acoustik OV4-800
KAC 7252 powering 2 D3 8" Diamonds
KDC-MP728, KGC-4042A
GasGuzz 
Member - Posts: 25
Member spacespace
Joined: March 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 17, 2004 at 10:50 AM / IP Logged  

Makes sense.

Now, I won't even consider a new hole/conduit.  There's more probs with that.

Good post, Jugga-man.

Sweekster 
Silver - Posts: 481
Silver spacespace
Joined: May 13, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: March 17, 2004 at 11:10 AM / IP Logged  
Best thing (and easiest) to do is what Jugga said. Since you're going to be replacing the wiring anyway there really isn't a need to drill another hole. Before pulling the old wire out, pop out the rubber boot from both the body and the door. Then removed the kick panel cover and slip a metal coat hanger through the body, into the car, and tape the new speaker wires to it and pull it through the body. Then pull the old wire out of the door and and out of the rubber boot and then slip the new wire through the boot and into the door....and there ya go. Only way you would have to drill new holes is if this is a 4 door car that didn't have speakers or power door locks/windows in the rear doors..
Duane...
If you think you're confused, imagine how you feel.   Rewiring Door Speakers - Last Post -- posted image.
markcars 
Silver - Posts: 662
Silver spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2002
Location: New York, United States
Posted: March 17, 2004 at 4:23 PM / IP Logged  
Just be a little careful with the tape holding the wire at the end of the coat-hanger. What I do is I tie a knot with the wire to the wirehanger's loop at the end, hopefully the knot isnt too big to pass through the hole where the original wire was. If the knot is too big then you could "U" bend the wire in half and pass the middle onto the wirehanger's loop. Hope I made sense?
Custom_Jim 
Copper - Posts: 210
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 28, 2003
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: March 17, 2004 at 6:58 PM / IP Logged  

Some of the car's it is tough to get new wires run through the door grommet tubes and HOPEFULLY, you don't have one of those ignorant vehicles (like my wife's 98 Escort) that has a molded hard plastic plug mounted on the car side of the cowl that the door harness with the rubber boot plugs into. I can understand the design from an assembly line standpoint but it makes running wires in some of the new cars a royal pain. If you take your time and use some of the hints like above, you should be able to get the new wires run. You might also want to leave a pull wire in there for any later wiring that you might add.

Jim 

1968 Chevy II Nova Garage Find 2012
1973 Nova Custom
1974 Spirit of America Nova
1973 Nova Pro-Street

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