Frame, Stretch, Soak

dude that looks cool but did you have a hard time stapleing the material

holla ths rah

flexing my routering skills... YES, flexing my wood working skills... YES,  sharing useful tips with forum members... YES

how many numerous times have you seen pictures on this forum regarding fiberglass projects that could of turned out alot better if time was spent on the wood work details? to me it just does not look good when you make a subwoofer ring that sticks out at least an inch with jagged edges about to be fleeced. you dont have to recess or flush mount the subs like i do, but at least router the outer edge of the ring so you can attach fleece to it, and not over the entire ring itself, so the woofer has a true and flat surface it can seat itself on.

anyways, i see alot of projects like this and was just hoping to help others on this forum.

as far as enclosure design, i'm not a pro at it, and i was not trying to show it off, i even said i didn't know what type of an enclosure this should be considered. like i said before "it works for me, keeps the bass in the cabin of the vehicle and not in the trunk", the only reason i posted additional pictures of the vehicle was because a forum member did not understand what i was trying to acheive.

Once again, this thread i started was not intended as a "Port Design / Enclosure Design" thread.

I started this thread to share with you how very important it is to spend the time, and go over the little wood work details so you will have better results with YOUR finished product.

Hope this clarifys everything for you BMONEY

the unfortunate thing is no, it didn't clear anything up.  What you've done, clearly by accident, is create a tri-chamber bandpass enclosure and then tell people who asked you that its NOT a bandpass or a vent or anything but instead a way to "isolate the bass into the cabin and not the trunk"  To me, someone offering advice and/or instruction should be AN EXPERT in their field.  Not someone who's built a few glass boxes and isn't sure what the design or outcome actually will be  :-(  There's no better way to shake someones confidence in you than to not know what you've actually built.

PS - there is far more value in correct and intentional box design than there ever will be in the basic ability to use a $30 Jasper Jig and 1/4 spiral upcut bit and frame something to be stretched with fleece.  I'm sure most shop owners would agree  :-)  Thanks for the reply tho (and the offer still stands - gimme the dimensions and I'll show you how to calculate what you have)

bmoney

yeps - and thats the point.  To me its a little worrisome when an installer shows off great framing techniques, and adds pics of an ill-designed tri-chamber bandpass which he honestly thinks is a sealed box with the "bass isolated in the cabin".  then back that up more by saying is a "pure spl" install and of course its going to sound bad.  You finding a way to make Dub 7's sound bad is testament to how little you understand about box design....

now be honest (seriously).  Have you noticed that with this "bass isolation method" you get some pretty wildly unpredicted results?  Take this as an opportunity to grow as an installer and become a PRO at box design (which, by the way is fundamentally far more valuable in the bay than glass skills are)  Take the time to learn man - don't just deflect the fact that you've build an unintended fart-cannon and then made the mistake of posting pics about it...of course we're gonna ask!!!!

sorry man - misinformation bugs the HELL out of me  :)

bmoney

HamiltonAudio

alright, i'm ready to learn enclosure design. I don't have the specs on the box i built with the W7's, it was done awhile back.

where can we start?