my kickers keep blowin fuses

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motocrossrider

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Joined: January 05, 2008

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: January 05, 2008 at 12:11 PM / IP Logged

1994 chevy silverado k1500, new car battery, 4 gauge wiring positive&negative 2 cvr 12" kickers Mtx thunder series amplifier TC4002, 1.2 farad capacitor

the problem is my power cable running from my battery to my cap/amp keeps blowing fuses, the owners manual for my amp states that I need a 50 amp fuse in the power cable because I have 2 25 amp fuses in my amplifier (it's a 2-channel), yet 60 amp fuses keep blowing and i recently installed a 150 amp fuse is this ok?

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KPierson

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Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: January 05, 2008 at 12:15 PM / IP Logged

Did it blow the 150A fuse?

With a 4 guage wire, technically, the 150A fuse is OK. However, it is a bit excessive for the load you are putting on it.

I would think a 60A fuse would be fine, that is strange. How often does it blow the fuse? What are the conditions when the fuse blows?

I would recomend removing the cap and going from there - it's not helping you in any way anyway.

Kevin Pierson

motocrossrider

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Posted: January 05, 2008 at 12:19 PM / IP Logged

with 60a fuses they blow in about 5-10 min

DYohn

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Joined: April 22, 2003

Location: Arizona, United States

Posted: January 05, 2008 at 12:46 PM / IP Logged

Have you checked for shorts in your system using an ohm meter? Have you measured system voltage? How are your speakers wired? How was your gain set? What else is in the circuit? Get rid of the cap and see if that helps.

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i am an idiot

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Joined: September 21, 2006

Location: Louisiana, United States

Posted: January 05, 2008 at 6:48 PM / IP Logged

Does the fuse actually blow, or does it just melt the solder off the ends of it and not make a connection anymore?

speakermakers

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Posted: January 05, 2008 at 7:23 PM / IP Logged

If your 50 amp fuse (two 25 amp) dose not blow but more than one 60 amp fuse at the battery blows you have a short between your battery and your amp. Inspect the entire run and repair what you find.

motocrossrider

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: January 05, 2008

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: January 05, 2008 at 7:30 PM / IP Logged

KPierson wrote:

I would recomend removing the cap and going from there - it's not helping you in any way anyway.

How is the cap not beneficial to my system? Before I installed it, the lights dim and the battery voltage meter on my dash bounced around. Both items still occur, just much less, now that I installed the cap.

motocrossrider

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Joined: January 05, 2008

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: January 05, 2008 at 7:32 PM / IP Logged

speakermakers wrote:

If your 50 amp fuse (two 25 amp) dose not blow but more than one 60 amp fuse at the battery blows you have a short between your battery and your amp. Inspect the entire run and repair what you find.

Agreed. I doublechecked and the amp indeed has only 2x25amp fuses so, that's the only solution. Any other problems I may or may not have at this point are going to be hard to find and diagnose until the short is fixed, i'd imagine.

motocrossrider

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Location: Texas, United States

Posted: January 05, 2008 at 7:37 PM / IP Logged

Also, I just had a thought:

We've determined there must be a short, but as the battery doesn't wind up dead after I turn off the engine, that would seem to limit the places the short could be located. Is this a correct assumption? If so, where should I limit my search? I'm not especially familiar with car wiring (otherwise I'd have wired it myself, not had the idiot at Trader's Village do it, and probably wouldn't be here right now).

motocrossrider

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Joined: January 05, 2008

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: January 05, 2008 at 7:41 PM / IP Logged

DYohn wrote:

-not yet. gotta get one.

-engine off, about 12.5 on the cap readout; engine on, 13.5

-DVC 4ohm, wired for 2ohm load

-like 3/4 the way up

-nothing but the cap, speakers, and amp, unless i misunderstood you

-happened before i installed the cap as well

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