stereo issues

Yeah, this is first on my list of things to try when I have time. But, I work nights so I won't have time to do it until Thursday, my first day off for the weekend. I basically just wanted to know if there was a possibility that, with my system layout, what happened could have caused damage to other components in my system.

I know more or less how to track down what is actually wrong, but perhaps I did not make my request clear in my OP. My apoogies...

greenbroncoguy, advanced_audio is one of several on the forum who'd like to help you figure things out, but the car's not in his or anybody's shop.  You have the meters but you don't have the time.  It looks like you posted the horse before the cart.  Re your last question (IMHO):  At this point, all possibilities exist.

But I did get some enjoyment out of the entertaining part of this thread.  You and sedate both wrote better rebuttals than I could ever achieve. 

I have no issue with advanced_audio whatsoever - and I appreciate the help immensely. I understand that I may have started this thread a little pre-maturely; however, I wanted to get the ball rolling and hopefully get some ideas flowing about if what happened could have possibly led to the demise of my other equipment.

As for the rebuttals, maybe I just like to argue and am in the wrong profession Still, I have no beef with the other dude, at this point I could call it a draw and drop that whole thing. I'm sure we both have better things to do with our time - like fix my system :)

Ok, so I just went out and did some checking, and the amps and the DCX all come on. The sound still only comes from the rear fills, which are run from the HU. When I turn on the system, there is a loud "thud" from the subs, and nothing else.

I still won't have time to remove my sub box and take the POS Audiobahn amp out of the equation until Thursday, but at least I know the DCX is still outputting a remote turn on signal to the amps, and everything is powering on.

greenbroncoguy wrote: As for the rebuttals, maybe I just like to argue and am in the wrong profession Still, I have no beef with the other dude, at this point I could call it a draw and drop that whole thing. I'm sure we both have better things to do with our time - like fix my system :)

More productive things?  Sure.  Better?  No way.  I love arguing the fine technical points of car audio and your last response was ripe with minutia to quibble over. . .

Well.  I think I just like to argue.

Like - everytime you turn on the system?  Reliably and reproducibly?  Huh.

stevdart wrote: You and sedate both wrote better rebuttals than I could ever achieve.

Cheers, stevdart.

What, helping me isn't productive? Please, please, please, please tell me it is with a light-hearted and joking attitude you type this with, as I was seriously ready to drop this but I can go all day if need be. All's good though, I just couldn't quite tell...

Yes, the same exact thing every time I turn on the system, so long as the volume on the HU is 1/35 and over. If the volume is all the way down when it powers on, then nothing...

If all the amps and processor are turning on, then the next step is to be sure they are getting signal.  Swap the working output on the processor to the inputs on the nonworking amps (be careful of volume level first) and see if you get sound.  Let us know what you find from there.

BTW, what are you using to set crossover/level/alignment settings in the processor for your speakers?  Are you using some sort of measurement device to get an active response of the speakers in their mounted locations?  Or are you doing it all by ear?

This was next on my list, but my box and all has to come out for me to be able to get to the DCX and swap things around.

As far as setting the x-overs; I haven't really started to tune yet since I've gotten the re-wire done and the Focal's put in. I just set up some preliminary x-over points (which I have listed below for reference) just as a starting point. I realize the high-pass for the tweets is rather low, but since it's a two way, I think it has to be. I think I am going to get a set of Seas Lotus RT27's to replace the Focal's, as they are suppose to be able to be crossed low like I need.

Tweeters - 2500hz & up 12db slope

MIdbass's - 80hz - 2500hz 12db slope

Sub - 25hz - 63hz  12db slope

Hmm.  I'm running an active wiring scheme as well and I crossed my tweets up at 4k - I'd play with this 2.5k a bit.  I'd be afraid with so much musical info coming from tweets, they'd take on a real bright tenor - assuming they'd handle the freq over the long term.  But I'm not real familiar with Focal tweets...

I dunno.  Post back when you figure out your signal situation and can eliminate that audiobahn.

Are you running a 2-way system, or 3-way?

Once I get my A-pillar pods built and get my Vifa TG9 3.5" mids put in, I will be corssing the tweeters over around 5-8khz. Since I only have a 2-way currently with a 6.5" mid/bass, this size driver will start to beam around 3k, possibly a little higher - this is why I have the mid'bass low passed at ~2500hz and let the tweeter takes over from there.

I haven't done too much EQ'ing on the system yet since the re-wire, or since putting in the tweeters - all I did was set the x-overs to keep things safe(what a concept). I also won't be cranking the system or straining the tweeters until I get it all dialed in.