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2001 town and country, remote start


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audiomaninc 
Copper - Posts: 108
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 18, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 21, 2008 at 5:33 PM / IP Logged  

Alright, this one's got me ready to jump off the roof of  the garage.  Two weeks ago, Friday, I installed an Omega MARS 11+ Starter with an IM531 and CHDL6 firmware into a 2001 Town & Country LXi.  This is the one with ALL the bells and whistles, power doors, liftgate etc.  I got everything installed and programmed the bypass, and everything works absolutely wonderful, except it wont start with the key all the time.  It would crank really long, so I'd stop and wait a second and try it again, and voila, it starts.  I looked over and over and over for any accidentally cut wires, or unplugged plugs, and nothing.  I swapped the bypass thinking it may have been faulty, but that's not the case.  Hell, I even completely unwired the starter and the van still did it!  Needless to say, I put the starter back in because magically, it's the only way the van will start every time.  Fast forward to today...This poor woman can't start her van at all with the key!  It's gotten worse and worse, and now it only starts with the remote starter.  At first I'm thinking that the SKIM could be completely bad, but wouldn't the car at least run for a couple seconds and shut off?  Also, if the SKIM was bad, I think the remote starter would work either!  I hope I'm not the only one who's ever had this problem, it's driving me crazy.  To top it all off, the van is my fiance's boss'!  Please help, please.

Jason

audiomaninc 
Copper - Posts: 108
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 18, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 21, 2008 at 5:47 PM / IP Logged  

Also, I forgot to mention, there is NO security light on the dasboard!  It doesn't flash, or even light up at all, no matter if I'm using a key, or the remote starter. 

Jason

StealthEs 
Copper - Posts: 326
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 04, 2003
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: January 21, 2008 at 6:18 PM / IP Logged  
Sound like the Skim code got erased from the key. Does it do it with her other key?
Cris
offroadzj 
Gold - Posts: 2,043
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 21, 2008 at 7:41 PM / IP Logged  
i am not familiar with that particular bypass, but is there a keysense wire on it? If not, is there a way to disconnect power to the bypass using the keysense. I have seen quite a few chrysler vehicles where if the vehicle sees both keys (the bypass being the second key), it will not allow it to start. Again, I am not familiar with that particular bypass, so this may not be of any help at all, but just giving it a shot. If not, then you may have erased the key.
If that is the case, does the customer has another key? You may be able to reprogram the unprogrammed key using the good key and the bypass as follows:
1) ground the wait-to-start wire on the r/s
2) turn vehicle to on position using the good key for approx. 10seconds, then turn off and remove key
3) press the remote start button (will not start because of wait-to-start being grounded) and let it leave the ignition on for approx. 10 seconds until the red program light illuminates and beeps.
4) press the brake to deactivate r/s
5) put unprogrammed key in and turn to on for approx. 10 seconds. This should allow the key to relearn the code and allow it to work.
I am not 100% sure if this will work or not, so if someone out there sees a flaw in it, please let me know.
HTH
Kenny
2) turn vehicle off, a
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
robertsc 
Copper - Posts: 337
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 21, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 21, 2008 at 9:59 PM / IP Logged  
you did the 180 ohm on the mux wire i presume?
Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: January 21, 2008 at 10:14 PM / IP Logged  
Where did you grab your tach wire at ? If you grabbed it at the coil pack at the back of the engine did you by chance unplug the plug wires to gain access to the coil plug ? ( That's a rhetorical question 2001 town and country, remote start -- posted image. )
Anyway, make sure that all the plugs are actually plugged in ALL THE WAY and also, make sure that they were plugged back into the proper order ( shortest plug on the left [ when facing the coil ] and longest plug on the right ).
The vehicle will still run just not very well or start very good if the plugs are not in the proper order.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
audiomaninc 
Copper - Posts: 108
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 18, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 22, 2008 at 10:09 AM / IP Logged  
Alright, the remote starter works flawlessly every time.  Neither factory key will start the car anymore.  The car wont just start and run for a second, it will actually crank as long as you'll hold the key for without even turning over.  Yes, there is a 180 ohm resistor on the MUX wire, and I'm using the "Smart Start" voltage sense feature instead of a tach wire.  Neither key starts the vehicle at all, even with the remote starter completely removed from the vehicle, wires and all.  The odd thing to me is that the security light that's supposed to be lit on the dashboard isn't there.  It doesn't light up at all, regardless if I'm trying to use the key or the remote.  If the SKIM erased the keys, both keys, I believe the van would just start and run for a couple seconds and then shut off.  Jeez louise, this is really crawling under my skin!
2003 Dodge Neon R/T
Alpine CDA9813, RF T2000.1bd, RF T162S, RFT142C, RF T600.4, RF T215D4
140.7 @ 28Hz
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: January 22, 2008 at 10:12 AM / IP Logged  
When you say "remote start completely disconnected," is that the bypass too?
If Chryslers see two keys at once, they won't start.
If the bypass has a problem where it stays on all the time, when a key is inserted the car will see two keys, and therefore won't start.
I'm not too familiar with the IM531, but that's a rebadged Trilogix piece, right? It has a ring that you put around the car's ignition switch, right?
If you unplug that ring from the module, what happens?
audiomaninc 
Copper - Posts: 108
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 18, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 22, 2008 at 10:53 AM / IP Logged  
You are correct about the IM531, Chris.  When I say that the remote starter was removed, I do mean completely.  Every wire, every plug, the bypass, and the brain completely outside the vehicle.  I even went so far as to put one of the keys in the ignition to see if maybe the SKIM was detecting 2 keys and wouldn't let the van start,  but it remote started just fine.  I'm really at a loss on this one!
2003 Dodge Neon R/T
Alpine CDA9813, RF T2000.1bd, RF T162S, RFT142C, RF T600.4, RF T215D4
140.7 @ 28Hz
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: January 22, 2008 at 2:12 PM / IP Logged  
Hmm. This does seem like a tough one.
Just one more idea I can think of.
With all the aftermarket stuff removed, like you have it now, test all of the wires coming from the key cylinder for proper operation.
Specifically:
Does the PURPLE / orange have ground at all times? Does the PURPLE / brown test as ground when cranking with the key?
Does the car's keysense circuit function properly.....that is, with a key in the ignition and the door open, do you get the warning chime?
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