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Remote Start Activation Input


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Reeceddogg 
Copper - Posts: 329
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Posted: February 09, 2008 at 6:54 PM / IP Logged  
When doing an add-on R/S what's the best wire to use for the activation input. Door lock motor?
chadwa2003 
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Posted: February 09, 2008 at 10:07 PM / IP Logged  
Usually that's your best bet what kind of vehicle year make and model
Reeceddogg 
Copper - Posts: 329
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Posted: February 10, 2008 at 3:15 AM / IP Logged  
I'm putting this one in a 05 taurus. I did use that wire. I wanted to see if there was anythings else. I've tried pulsing off the unlock wire to a relay but the voltage drop still wasn't strong enough. Just looking for ideas for the future.
chriswallace187 
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Posted: February 10, 2008 at 3:30 AM / IP Logged  

Lock motor lead's usually your only option. Most of the time the lock switch wire (the pink / YELLOW (-) on that car) doesn't get activated with the factory keyless remote.

C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
tedmond 
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Posted: February 10, 2008 at 7:23 AM / IP Logged  

yea chris is right, most units require a strong ground pulse, and most of the time the best way is door lock motor wires. using a relay on the motor for the remote start unit ensures 100% that it will always start remote start sequence.  

Reeceddogg 
Copper - Posts: 329
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Posted: February 10, 2008 at 11:18 AM / IP Logged  
That's what i figure.
chriswallace187 
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Posted: February 10, 2008 at 1:07 PM / IP Logged  

It's really not so much the need for a strong ground pulse that makes the lock motor lead a necessity for an activation input.

Theoretically you could connect it to the lock switch wire, defogger circuit, headlights or any other switched circuit on the vehicle, and your remote start would work fine - when you do valet take-over to run into the store, because you can just activate that switch from in the car. 
This wouldn't be a big deal at all if you were putting in an r/s with its own remote and wanted to give the customer an extra option for takeover rather than fumbling with the buttons on the remote while it's still in the ignition.

If you are adding the system on to be controlled by a factory keyless entry remote, the lock motor lead (or if you've got really good wiring info, the lock output from the keyless receiver to the lock relay) is the only wire you can count on to work. 

The lock switch wires(with some exceptions - '95-up keyless Sunfires/Cavaliers among them) don't get activated by the keyless entry.

C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Reeceddogg 
Copper - Posts: 329
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Posted: February 10, 2008 at 1:21 PM / IP Logged  
That the reason i went to the lock motor. lock switch wires didn't activate with the factory keyless and this is an add-on with no remotes.
wsc75 
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Posted: February 15, 2008 at 8:41 AM / IP Logged  
what if you wanted to activate the r/s using the unlock button?
chriswallace187 
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Posted: February 15, 2008 at 3:24 PM / IP Logged  

It's possible to use the unlock button, but less feasible since factory keyless systems generally do priority unlocking (driver's door only on the first press). 

If you used the driver's unlock motor lead with one pulse for activation, it wouldn't be an issue. 

If you wanted to make it work with multiple button pushes so the car wouldn't start every time, that'd be a little more tricky - some keyless entry systems may not send an output to any doors after they are already unlocked, some will alternately unlock the driver's door and passenger doors indefinitely, and some will only unlock the passenger doors from the 2nd button push on.

In addition, if your car doesn't allow the keyless to work while running, you've got the additional problem of an unlocked car the whole time it's remote started.  Not good in my book.

C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
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