destroying enclosure

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aznboi3644

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Posted: February 17, 2008 at 1:26 PM / IP Logged

The cost of fiberglass mat/cloth and resin out weighs the cost for a sheet of 3/4" MDF though.

I don't trust mounting my 18 inch sub to 1/2" MDF. 1/2" will flex even with fiberglass and resin if it is not braced well.

I'm not saying your enclosures are weak. But for me part of having a sturdy enclosure is weight.

DYohn

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Joined: April 22, 2003

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Posted: February 17, 2008 at 1:50 PM / IP Logged

Actually weight by itself means nothing.

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sedate

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Posted: February 17, 2008 at 2:02 PM / IP Logged

aznboi wrote:

The cost of fiberglass mat/cloth and resin out weighs the cost for a sheet of 3/4" MDF though.

I don't trust mounting my 18 inch sub to 1/2" MDF. 1/2" will flex even with fiberglass and resin if it is not braced well.

I'm not saying your enclosures are weak. But for me part of having a sturdy enclosure is weight.

Hehe - my enclosure are super-duper-strong - unless I miss a critical joint with a deck screw!

Okay - aznboi - come on an 18 is a totally irregular install situation!

Anywho - I agree - heft is preferable - but the thing has to go into a car! Saving weight has so many beneficial impacts that I willingly spend the extra $40 or so on materials for fiberglass to cut 20 - 40 lbs from a moving vehicle! I betcha you'd save twice that over a year in increased fuel costs.

Anyway - for nominal install situations, 1/2 MDF and even a cursory coat of fiberglass resin is, I maintain, quite perferable to 3/4 MDF given all the trade-offs that go into the equation.

"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview

aznboi3644

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Posted: February 17, 2008 at 5:29 PM / IP Logged

DYohn wrote:

Actually weight by itself means nothing.

Density correct DYohn??

I may try using 1/2" MDF for 10" and 12" enclosures. I still need to learn how to fiberglass...I've done a lot of reading up on fiberglassing but I just never have time to mess around with it...Hopefully this summer I can learn.

Actually using 1/2 inch material would help with my back not breaking trying to lift big enclosures lol.

audioman2007

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Posted: February 17, 2008 at 5:49 PM / IP Logged

All I know is that I copied my box off another box thats 5/8" think. That box was used for years and the box never broke except at the joints which werent even square nor joined tightly together. My box is 100% square and the joints fit very tightly together. Use titebond and staples. I think it will be ok. If a box that wasnt made very good made it several years, my box should be fine.

sedate

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Posted: February 18, 2008 at 2:26 AM / IP Logged

aznboi wrote:

I still need to learn how to fiberglass...I've done a lot of reading up on fiberglassing but I just never have time to mess around with it...Hopefully this summer I can learn.

I don't mean anything fancy - no glass mat or special shapes - I think that stuff looks silly anyway and I can't imagine the amount of material I'd go through trying to make somethin that looks nice - I just paint the stuff inside of all my enclosures when I'm done building them - works wonders for sealing joints and MDF absorbs the stuff really well - very pourous, MDF makes an outstanding substrate. I'll generally use a quart of resin and two tubes of hardner for an enclosure meant for a pair of 12's. Like I said, I can't imagine the thing is any less acoustically viable than a heavier 3/4 brethern, and at some 50% weight savings!

aznboi wrote:

Actually using 1/2 inch material would help with my back not breaking trying to lift big enclosures lol.

Yea that TL you built musta weighed a freakin ton! It hurt just looking at it.

"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview

aznboi3644

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Posted: February 18, 2008 at 6:24 PM / IP Logged

Yeah...I would guess that T-line for that one 12 I weighs over 80 lbs unloaded.

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destroying enclosure

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