destroying enclosure

An improperly built enclosure, sure.  A properly built enclosure, I have never seen one come apart.  re; Gorilla Glue.  They have a new wood glue formula that doesn't expand like their standard glues and is much easier to use for enclosures.Support the12volt.com

re: cutting circles.  All you need is a good plunge router and a Jasper Jig or two.Support the12volt.com

Hitachi, Delta, Black and Decker, Sears/Craftsman... ALL build a decent table saw, but avoid Jet, or pretty much anything you might trip across at Harbor Freight. I'd expect to pay around 400 to 500 dollars for a respectable one. The first thing I look to, when searching for a usable table saw is the TABLE. Thin, flimsy cast aluminum is to be avoided. Cast iron, and as thick as you can carry... In addition to being FAR more durable, all that weight on top makes the whole thing more stable. Be sure the table is big enough, OR make sure that you can get table extensions. Nothing more annoying than having to have three people's hands to cut a 4x8 sheet of MDF. At least 3/4 HP. I upgraded my motor to a 1.5HP, I like to be able to push it... Not to mention the fact that a bound blade is about as dangerous a situation you can encounter when working on a table saw... Also check the ripfence. Is it SOLID, or does it lock effectively? Does it lock at both ends? (That's a big one for me.) Are the graduations permanent? What I mean by that is this: Make sure the graduations are not on a tape, slid into a slot... those move, and your measurements CAN'T be consistent or repeatable. If you want to save a little bit on the saw itself, compromise on the fence, but be sure you can upgrade to a NICE one after the fact. The ripfence on mine was 750 dollars by itself. DYohn, wasn't aware of the new Gorilla Glue... I'll have to look for some when it's time to buy more again! Thanks for the tip.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

haemphyst wrote: Gorilla Glue. NEVER have I seen a single seam blow apart, and I don't even use screws to hold it during cure time. Clamps, and you're done. Of course, this construction method mandates perfect cuts, so proper measurements and careful setup and use of your TABLE SAW (i.e. NOT a Skil-Saw... FAR too inaccurate) are of utmost importance. I have actually had to DESTROY enclosures I have built this way to remove them from the vehicle in which they were installed, and the MDF gave way LONG before the joint did. Every home enclosure I have ever built is nothing but Gorilla Glue. I hate filling and sanding screw holes.

Yeah Gorilla is great I have used it in the last 4 enclosures I have built and will never use anything else now.

haemphyst wrote: Also check the ripfence. Is it SOLID, or does it lock effectively? Does it lock at both ends? (That's a big one for me.) Are the graduations permanent? What I mean by that is this: Make sure the graduations are not on a tape, slid into a slot... those move, and your measurements CAN'T be consistent or repeatable. If you want to save a little bit on the saw itself, compromise on the fence, but be sure you can upgrade to a NICE one after the fact. The ripfence on mine was 750 dollars by itself.

I think the ripfence is the most important part of the saw.  I've tried to build enclosures with cheap fences and cuts are horribly inacurate.  I've found that my pieces didn't come out perfectly square when done.  So far my favorite portable saw was a Dewalt where the fence was solid and moved uniformly on both sides.  Here's the one we use at work now: http://www.amazon.com/JET-708955K-Xacta-Commercial-30-Inch/dp/B0000C6DYI/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1203141429&sr=8-30

Has anyone ever used 5/8MDF? I built 2 boxes using 5/8" I cut all my pieces on our table saw at work. Everything is nice and quare and fits perfectly. I then used titebond glue which we use to glue our center stringers to the back of our stairs. I also used 1 1/4 long 1/4 wide staples. I then sanded the outside of the box ONLY to get the excessive glue off at the joints.

5/8" MDF is too thin IMO. Unless you brace it well. I'd rather have a stronger enclosure with 3/4" MDF. 5/8" seems cheap

if you are getting 5/8 for free I would just double up all the sides. just take the demensions of the sides and glue them to what you have now.