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2003 mustang mach 1, stereo advice?


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01trublugt 
Copper - Posts: 112
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 08, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: March 18, 2008 at 1:58 PM / IP Logged  

I am getting ready to re-do my current system in my 2003 Mustang Mach 1.

The only current piece of equipment I am keeping is my Alpine head unit.

For amps I have two PPI Art series A404.2's and I plan to use an Audio Control 6xs X-over as neither the head unit or the amps have built in X-overs. For subs I have 2 Elemental Designs 11Kv.2 10" 2ohm DVC's. I am going to have to wire them up for 4 ohm loads and will use one A404.2 bridged to 2 ch. mode to power them which should give me about 200 watts a piece. Would love to run them to 2ohms but from everything I can find the old PPI's cant handle a 2ohm bridged load.

For highs I am still up in the air. I still plan to use some sort of rear fill, I am thinking maybe just a 5" woofer on each side with a bandpass filter, gain turned down lower than the front and angle the speakers to hit the back windshield so it acts more as fill than direct sound.

For the front I want to go with a component set and would love to find a set that produces a 2ohm load. I was thinking either something from CDT or MB Quart. Opinions are welcome at this point I want it to sound good but I also don't want to drop $500 + for a set of Rainbow's or Morel's either.

My car came with the Mach Audio system which places the front tweeter at the top corner of the door I am just wondering if I should keep the tweeter high in the door or place it lower closer to the woofer.

Any opinions, changes, or suggestions  would be appreciated

sedate 
Silver - Posts: 1,173
Silver spacespace
Joined: July 03, 2004
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: March 18, 2008 at 7:07 PM / IP Logged  

trublugt wrote:
I am getting ready to re-do my current system in my 2003 Mustang Mach 1.

trublugt wrote:
Any opinions, changes, or suggestions  would be appreciated

Dump it and get an import. 2003 mustang mach 1, stereo advice? -- posted image.

Naww just kiddin - (well, sort of)

trublugt wrote:
For amps I have two PPI Art series A404.2's and I plan to use an Audio Control 6xs X-over as neither the head unit or the amps have built in X-overs. For subs I have 2 Elemental Designs 11Kv.2 10" 2ohm DVC's. I am going to have to wire them up for 4 ohm loads and will use one A404.2 bridged to 2 ch. mode to power them which should give me about 200 watts a piece. Would love to run them to 2ohms but from everything I can find the old PPI's cant handle a 2ohm bridged load.

Sounds good to me.

trublugt wrote:
For highs I am still up in the air. I still plan to use some sort of rear fill, I am thinking maybe just a 5" woofer on each side with a bandpass filter, gain turned down lower than the front and angle the speakers to hit the back windshield so it acts more as fill than direct sound.

The bandpass part sounds good, this is actually how I run my rear fill - but don't bother angling or anything, rear fill isn't that complicated - just turn them down a bit.  With ur tweets up front, u will get exactly ZERO locational information from ur rears.

trublugt wrote:
For the front I want to go with a component set and would love to find a set that produces a 2ohm load. I was thinking either something from CDT or MB Quart. Opinions are welcome at this point I want it to sound good but I also don't want to drop $500 + for a set of Rainbow's or Morel's either.

I wouldn't worry so much about the 2-ohm requirement - but I think Image Dynamics has some stuff that might be up ur ally -

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3943

but if I were to purchase any particular componet set on the market today?

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_components_pages.php?page_id=233

trublugt wrote:
My car came with the Mach Audio system which places the front tweeter at the top corner of the door I am just wondering if I should keep the tweeter high in the door or place it lower closer to the woofer.

Lower, closer to the woofer.  Point the tweeter at the opposite side window pane.  Right in the middle.  It'll sound fantastic, I promise.

trublugt wrote:

Any opinions, changes, or suggestions  would be appreciated

Dude - you sound like u know EXACTLY what ur doing.

"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview
01trublugt 
Copper - Posts: 112
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 08, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: March 19, 2008 at 9:30 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the input, as for the import.....I had a mid 11 second Civic but once Fast and Furious came out and people started slapping 3' tall wings on Corollas it was time to get out of that.

I have been looking into CDT components with their upstage add on system, from what I can read they are getting pretty good reviews. For now I think I am going to get the sub box and amp rack built, get the front stage set up and bridge the 404 going to the highs for the front. Once I see how that sounds I will decide if I even need any rear fill. I don't have a back seat so its not like anyone will be back there listening for it anyways.

sedate 
Silver - Posts: 1,173
Silver spacespace
Joined: July 03, 2004
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: March 19, 2008 at 9:53 AM / IP Logged  

trublugt wrote:
I had a mid 11 second Civic but once Fast and Furious came out and people started slapping 3' tall wings on Corollas it was time to get out of that.

LMAO! 

Yea those movies warped many young minds. . .

trublugt wrote:
Once I see how that sounds I will decide if I even need any rear fill. I don't have a back seat so its not like anyone will be back there listening for it anyways.

I found that when I added a bandpass rear-fill (100 - 4000hz @ 45 watts to a pair of CDT Classic-series midranges) to my front stage, the sound became *much* more enveloping - and it *really* helped blend the midbass into the sub nicely. This was probably one of the most meaningful improvements I've made to my system - So if you're the type that tends to appreciate rear-fill - I couldn't recommend this enough - nevermind that you already have the available channels and the xover - you just need a ~$75 pair of drivers. . .

"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview

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