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newbie, 04 silverado, remote starter


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deadtired80 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2008
Posted: March 29, 2008 at 10:18 PM / IP Logged  

installing a compustar remote starter (2w900fm-as brain is a cm3000-vd) in my truck 04 chevy silverado 3500 diesel 4 door. Would like someone to go over this before i wire it in. i might have missed a few things. especially on the idatalink like ground output when running,ignition,tach output,door status and panic

compustar                                                                                                         vehicle                                                                                           idatalink

cn1/pin1    red                               12v constant (+)                                      ignition harness red wire                                                    also to 12v red on idata link

cn1/pin2    GREEN / WHITE                parking light                                             drivers kick panel brown wire

cn1/pin3    RED / white                   12v constant/prewired relay(+)              ignition harness white wire?????????????

                                               (RED / white to pin 87a&86 purple to 85 blue to 30)

cn1/pin4    white                           accessory                                                 ignition harness orange wire

cn1pin5    violet                            starter kill?anti grind                               (pin 85 on starter relay pre wired)

cn1pin6    yellow                          starter                                                        ignition harness yellow wire (cut   pin 30 on relay to motor pin 87 to ignit switch)

cn1/pin7    GREEN/ red                  ignition                                                        ignition harness pink wire (Also pin 86 on starter relay pre wired)

cn1/pin8    black                           ground                                                       vehicle chassis                                                                     also to idatalink black ground

cn2/pin1    GREEN / WHITE                250ma light out(-)                                    bcm gray/black wire

cn2/pin2    black                           250ma status out(-)                                                                                                                        idatalink door status white wire(-)

cn2/pin3    green                          250ma ignition out(-)

cn2/pin4    WHITE/ black                250ma access out(-)

cn2/pin5    RED / black                    250ma starter out(-)

cn3/pin1    light blue                     em brake sensing(-)

cn3/pin2    gray/black                   hood pin sensing(-)                              under hood

cn3/pin3    light blue/white          brake sensing(+)                                   brake pedal white wire

cn3/pin4    violet/black                 trunk sensing(-)

cn3/pin5    RED / white                    door sensing(-)

cn3/pin6    red                              door sensing(+)

cn3/pin7    BROWN / black              glow plug(-)

cn3/pin8    BROWN / white              glow plug(+)

cn3/pin9    yellow/black              alt/tach sensing                                       instrument cluster white wire pina5

cn4/pin1    not used                     not used

cn4/pin2    violet/white                  250ma trunk unlock(-)

cn4/pin3    ORANGE / black              250ma 2nd pulse unlock(-)

cn4/pin4    blue                             250ma unlock(-)                                                                                                                           idatalink unlock/disarm blue/black(-)

cn4/pin5    blue/black                  250ma lock(-)                                                                                                                                      idatalink lock/arm GREEN/ black(-)

cn4/pin6    not used                     not used

cn5/pin1    orange                        rearm(-)

cn5/pin2    ORANGE / white             disarm(-)

cn5/pin3    violet                            dome light super(-)

cn5/pin4    brown                          Siren(+)

cn5/pin5    white                           horn(-)

cn5/pin6    yellow                         aux1(-)

cn5/pin7    yellow/white               aux2(-)

cn5/pin8    not used                     future use

jumper     cut for auto

dip 1    on for tach

dip 2     off for 25 min diesel

idatalink purple wire to pin 2 on obdii under dash

thanks

Steven Kephart 
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Posted: March 30, 2008 at 2:28 AM / IP Logged  

Although this is a list of the correct wires to hook up. You still MUST test each wire to be sure you have the correct one.  This will prevent much headache in the future, including damage to your vehicle.  Here's some of the modifications I see in your list.

The RED / white wire in the ignition harness needs to be connected to a 12v constant source, not the white wire you specify above.  The vehicle has two red constant wires in which I use both.

You will want to use the supplied relay with the purple wire hooked to the green negative ignition output and the blue wire from the relay to the vehicles white second ignition wire in the ignition harness.  If you don't power up this wire, you will have warning light issues.  You will also want to build a relay using the WHITE/ black accessory negative output as a trigger to power up the vehicles brown second accessory wire. 

For the park lights you should either use the positive output, or the negative output; but not both.  The easiest to find is the negative output, but you will probably want to use a relay. 

I can't check the Idatalink connections as their website is down right now for maintenance.  But I don't think you have the black status output on the right wire.   It should be going to the ground when running wire on the Idatalink module.  IIRC it is blue.

For door sensing, you can use the vehicles domelight supervision wire as a trigger, but you will have to program the open zone warning for 60 seconds to give the delayed domelight time to turn off.

You will want to hook up the glow plug wire to the vehicles dk. blue wait to start wire. 

IIRC the Idatalink module doesn't disarm the factory alarm before remote start.  So you may need to run a wire hooked up to the black status output into the door to trigger the factory alarm disarm wire.

Chris Luongo 
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Posted: March 30, 2008 at 7:24 AM / IP Logged  
Steven is right, but I do have a few minor differences of opinion.
--Not only is Steven right that you never use BOTH parking light outputs from the remote starter, but I've also found it impossible to find the positive light wire in the kick panel.
Just use your negative parking light output to the gray/black at the BCM, and cut the Compustar's postive light output and tape it off.
--Getting to the brake wire at the pedal sucks, and there's a better way.
Reach inside the driver's-side dashboard fusebox, reach up, and you'll feel a small harness running upward. It's wrapped in gray foam instead of black tape.
Pull that down, there's plenty of slack. Brake is light blue. (It runs up to the third brake light at the top of the cab.)
If needed, I think the gray/black domelight wire is in there too.
--Starter kill/anti grind relay. Your truck already has antigrind from the factory, and the PASSLock II is a pretty good theft-deterrent system.
It's totally up to you, but if the aftermarket starter kill is not desired, you could cut this relay out.
--Brown accessory wire. I prefer to leave it unpowered, as this way, the wipers can't come on during remote start, even if the wiper switch is left on.
On the other hand, it is more correct to power up ALL of the car's circuits during remote start, and many installers prefer this. It's up to you.
--Diesel stuff. Doesn't yours have the Duramax.........um, what do they call it? Instant-Fire or something like that, right?
Basically what I'm asking is, does the wait-to-start light ever come on? I don't think it does, does it?
If you (with your key) can start the truck like it has a gas engine, then I would install the remote starter as if it had a gas engine as well.
cn5/pin5 horn output: Are you installing a siren with this system, and don't care about the horn?
The horn wire is BLACK / YELLOW, in the steering column with your ignition wires. If it were me, I'd hook it up, so there's even more noise when the alarm goes off.
--idatalink stuff: Same as Steven, I can't say without reading their website (and without knowing which module you're using), but:
iDatalink (and many other manufacturers) say "ground when running," and Compustar (and DEI) say "status"...........but those are the same thing.
That is, if I'm not mistaken, the Compustar's "status" wire puts out a ground whenever the remote starter is turned on.
This wire would be connected to the iDatalink's blue/white "ground when running" wire, UNLESS you're using that special black cable that ties the Compustar directly to the iDatalink.
If you ARE using that special cable (I think they call that "iDatalink mode?"), look at the iDatalink instructions carefully.
Out of all the wires coming out of their module, some of the wires are illustrated with a dotted line, and it says something like "only if connected in wire-to-wire mode" or something like that.
Basically, if you're using the datalink cable, the cable "carries" many signals for you, like lock, unlock, door trigger and so forth........which saves you time and makes the installation neater.
Steven Kephart 
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Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: March 30, 2008 at 12:27 PM / IP Logged  

Chris Luongo wrote:
Just use your negative parking light output to the gray/black at the BCM, and cut the Compustar's postive light output and tape it off. 

I've always added a relay to the negative parking light output just in case the 200ma output wasn't enough.  I know the factory wire is only 18 awg, but I prefer to be safe than sorry.  So have you ever had a problem wiring it directly?  I'd love to be able to wire it this way if assured there wouldn't be any problems.

Chris Luongo wrote:
--Getting to the brake wire at the pedal sucks, and there's a better way.
Reach inside the driver's-side dashboard fusebox, reach up, and you'll feel a small harness running upward. It's wrapped in gray foam instead of black tape.
Pull that down, there's plenty of slack. Brake is light blue. (It runs up to the third brake light at the top of the cab.)

Thanks for that tip! 

Chris Luongo wrote:
--Diesel stuff. Doesn't yours have the Duramax.........um, what do they call it? Instant-Fire or something like that, right?
Basically what I'm asking is, does the wait-to-start light ever come on? I don't think it does, does it?
If you (with your key) can start the truck like it has a gas engine, then I would install the remote starter as if it had a gas engine as well.

I haven't done too many of the diesels.  But IIRC the wait to start wire is almost impossible to find in that vehicle anyway.  I believe I've always used a programmed delayed start in the past instead.

KarTuneMan 
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Posted: March 30, 2008 at 1:23 PM / IP Logged  

Just for future referance. The wait to start on this truck can be found in 2 spots. Under the underhood fuse box. It's blue in a black plug with purple guts.

It's also behind the guage cluster.... same color. Negative. The tach is in the same 2 spots. White 4 cylinder reading.

deadtired80 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2008
Posted: March 30, 2008 at 6:31 PM / IP Logged  

thanks for the help so far everyone

i'm using a idatalink solo series ads-gm, have to hard wire the unit because there is no rs232 port on compustar

Q1. What does idata link 2-way mode mean? my next 2 questions depend on this.

Q2. door status(-)output white wire on the idatalink does this go tocn3/pin5 door sensing(-) on the compustar?

Q3 tach output(ac)BLACK/ white wire does this go to cn3/pin9 alt/tach sensing on compustar so i shouldn't have to go tothe  instrument cluster white wire

Q4 ignition(+) input green wire on idatalink not sure were this goes on compustar(maybe cn2/pin3 on compustar)

thanks again

deadtired80 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2008
Posted: March 30, 2008 at 6:35 PM / IP Logged  

i do have the duramax engine and its like 3 seconds for the glow plugs

gus1 
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Joined: October 15, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: March 30, 2008 at 7:30 PM / IP Logged  
Brake wire is right there at the switch, right in the open. I think you are thinking of 92-2002 where the switch was waaaayyyy up high and hard to get to. On those ones, the brake wire is also in the column harness. Light blue.
Set your remote start for a 5 second wait to start, don't need the wait to start wire on those trucks.
Tach from iData box goes to tach on Compustar.
Door trigger output of iData box to -ve door input of Compustar
Ignition of iData box goes to ignition output of Compustar, yes.
2way mode means that the bypass will communicate with the Compustar. One cable takes care of a lot of connections.
Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
deadtired80 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2008
Posted: March 30, 2008 at 8:39 PM / IP Logged  
so my cn2/pin3  (-)250ma 2nd ignition output on the compustar and my ignition(+) input on my idatalink both go to my relay on pin85
Steven Kephart 
Platinum - Posts: 1,737
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
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Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: March 31, 2008 at 2:59 AM / IP Logged  

deadtired80 wrote:
so my cn2/pin3  (-)250ma 2nd ignition output on the compustar and my ignition(+) input on my idatalink both go to my relay on pin85

No, the Idatalink module wants a positive ignition source.  You will want to connect it to the large awg green wire on the Compustar unit.

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