astrostart rs 113 dip switches

Anyone can provide me install manual or dip switch setting configuration for this controller?

I have the system installed in a 1996 Suzki Sidekick Sport JLX model but nothing seems to happen when any of the remote buttons are depressed. I have checked the basic power inputs and the pin switches but nothing happens yet I'm thinking there must be relays somewhere as the vehicle has full load power options but nothing and although I have searched near the steering column for any relays I can't find anything there or in the engine compartment. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

You may send me manual if you you have to quietwin@mts.net

Someone has altered all dip (8)switches, so I have no idea what the functions are; that's the first part. I notice and tested main cicuits at the controller and the functions seem to work testing lights, start and coil circuits. I'm leaning toward bunked transmitter because although led on transmitter works I don't get anything if I look at the diagnostic led on the receiver module that function seems to work when playing with the brake and transmission shifter and also the impact sensor. I suppose if replacing the battery on the trnasmitter don't work I could look inside the main controller becuase I saw some corrosion on one connector; possibly maybe need to resolder the pins should fix any issue there but receiver seems to be trying....

If I could get an installer outline for the dip switches that would certainly help my testing. Only one thing I noticed for certain LED on the dash is dead but I think it would still work regardless of the led as it has in another vehicle!

If anyone could even tell me basic factory settings for the dips that might help becuase I tried them all on and all off nothing happens including valet switch.

reprogram both transmitters. put # 8 up, hit the brake, THEN hit unlock on both transmitter, one after the next. When done

put # 8 down hit the brake. You are now out of programming mode. try to lock, and unlock. If this works GREAT, if not look at the receiver on the glass.

It must me connected, if it is not NOTHING will work. Also, look for the main on./off switch...... you want it on of course.

If the trnsmitters will lock, the next thing you need to do is a continuous run. start with the key, push the start button, shut the key off and take it out

The rig should stay running. I will send you the install guide.

If you could send me the manual that would be awesome muchas gracious!!!!

I did try and reprogram remote like you said presuming I was suppose to do that with the engine off; I did replace battery in transmitter which now seems to be working better prior to reprogramming remote. Unfortunately all the dip switches were already set to off by someone else before I got at it. I can tell you I know a fair degree about electronics and testing but my specialty is heavy equipment controllers but even then it's a whole lot easier with a schematic.

I did find a small problem on the transponder unit; as one antenna was broken off the circuit board; no problem and repaired that easily since the transponder is on velcro. No problem resoldered and retested unfortunately still nothing. I suppose since I'm determined and persistent not to be beaten next I will test the transponder harness since a hacker was in the dash it is possible someone cut the harness somewhere.

What I did see though is the LED on the dash is puked but the LED on the controller seems to be flashing different codes; I should have counted but presumiong it flashes eight times when in programming mode but the other I saw was  two but my last resort will be to take it to a dealeralthough I see no other reason it won't work other then possible faulty remote, defective "dash" LED, and the siren is probably ko'd although that really shouldn't matter. I'm also wondering if there is a sensor in the transmission console because I saw something, a switch controller that had a warning do not drop noticed while I was replacing park brake cable in the console.

I can say all looks good in the main module  and a bit of dielectric compund over the contacts took care of tha corrosion I had noticed on one connector but nothing was found faulty and I tested all the pinouts at the connector; since the main module seems to give staus LED outputs I presume that should still be working but it's just a bit of entertainment on a beautiful saturday afternoon with a few pina colopshoes...lol

I certainly appreciate your help and gladly return the favour any way I can! Thanx

I eagerly wait for that manual, tahnks again till then!

After going through the first 4 levels of programming; I'm a bit confused by the remainder at parts in each level for instance level 5 is the A+B/A+C suppose to mimica four button remote since I only have three. I was trying to program using a+c function but it was throwing me off because I presume  I could not set all parameters at once as I had upto level 5. I was then baffled how to set level 6, 7, 8 as they are all similar thinking you must use the same parameters say if you want pulse before starting I figured out #5 dipswitch changes pulse "before or after". If this is audible warning pulse I prefer if the alarm chirps once before start attempt  but I couldn't figure out purpose of pulse output; does that mean it chirps a couple times once started?That would be desireable as I have another vehicle with different system but it chirps once prior to start and chirps twice once started, turns on park lights and accessories locks the doors and initiates antitheft protection.

I'm considering translating level 6,7,8 as sequence of events in chronological order if I'm correct level 6, I would want a one second "pulse output duration"chirp prior to turning on ignition but I also want doors locked, antitheft active along with markers but because the vehicle is multiport fuel injection not carburetor I presume I just omit setting any parameter for carburetor  in all sequence levels 6,7,8.

I'm guessing I need to program parameters by interpreting level 6,7,8 as the desired effect for three consecutive modes; "ignition on" - level 6, "start" mode - level 7, and followed by "accessories" on- level 8 

I think the markers in my other vehicle come on for about 20 seconds while attempting to start  therefore I suppose; do I only enable pulse output in level 8  once accesories come on, using this as notification vehicle has started? Or do I need to program identical parameters for instance example "pulse output" does this require you set paramters the same for level 6,7,8........

I'm very close now as I also checked transponder harness for any open and all looks good there voltage and ground signal to transponder checks out, then I checked signal wire from transponder to controller; that's okay. The module controller is responding accurately in all the programming sequences so far but I'm now at point where it looks like my only remote doesn't funciton because the programming parameters were pretty basic straight forward for at least levels1- 4 yet I can't get any lock or unlock from remote however  if I plug in the utility harness at (252) the locks suddenly engage or lock but this causes an overide by the astrostart module and I can't unlock the doors from the door panel switch.

Possibly that might have something to do with the positioning of the data cable connection on the vss100 module tommorow I try switching the connection on the vss100 module since I presume this is for the door locks because I only have two module not three.  I just thought of something which now makes sense; I guess I need to find out what output funcions are being controlled by utility harness. No doubt I just realized locks are controlled by at least one output; makes sense now thre outputs, three levels all from utility connector!!! OMG

90% of the default settings are perfect for 99% of the cars on the road.

I think you are reading WAY TOO MUCH into this manual....wich is very easy to do.

Did you get the transmitters to program.?

will the vehicle lock/unlock.

pulse before and after are negative trigger signals generated by the brain to control certain features that might be needed.

pulse after as an example. Ford, and Chevy truck that have retained accs. power. you need to send a "pulse after" (after runtime) to the door pin

to shut the radio off. You see?

Outputs 6, 7, 8, are threee seperate outs that can be programed a multitude of different ways. (IF they are connected to something on the car)

You cannot change the operation of the parking lights, so don't try.

Your probably correct in that I'm trying to hard to set parameters especially level 5,6,7,8

I see only two wires connected at utility connector; on the output #2(wht/blu) controlling door "lock" function - negative pulse, and on ouput #3(wht)controlling door "unlock" function - negative pulse. Other then that I can't get remote to fire anything.

What I don't know is where the siren input signal is connected yet, and also dash mounted LED because I have now tested siren module and that is working but no chirp when connected to system and dash mount LED odes nothing at all likely fried.

Here is quick survey of what I programmed: that seems to be succesful in that I know I'm on the correct level of programming.

Level1 - first I did #7 on only reset hit brake, turn off dip, hit brake , and exit, then #8 on only to program remote, hit brake once, sequence unlock "c" button on remote, return #8 to off and hit brake.

Level2 - set 1,5 "on" all others off, program; should be 4 cyl, normal starter cutoff, and 15 sec. crank cycle. Hit brake once, confirm level2 mode, returned all dips to off and hit brake again to exit.

Level3 - set 2,6,8 "on" all others off; program for gas configuration,15 min. run duration espececially when it's -35 here in winter at least, 3 second delay accelerator, and ground glow plug circuit though not used.

Level4 - set 1,2,4,7 "on" all others off; programmed for alarm enable manual mode, 1 second electronic signal door locks, with confirmation, auto lock disabled. Hit brake once as usual after dips set to on confirm level of programming then then return all dips to off and hit brake again to exit.

Level5 - set 3,4,5,6,8 "on" all others off; program for automatic rearming, and type 2 sequence, presume a&b function for car finder, and a&c fuction start only, brake once, verified level, return all dips "off" brake to exit.

Level6 - (no circuit connected on ouput #1 channel of utility connector) set 1,3 "on" for level but not certain what if anything else should be on 5,6,7,8 must be off because it is fuel injection but wondering if I need to program 6,7,8 on to activate horn were I have siren module however I thought this is likely only to control the channel #1 output on the utility connector since I'm not getting any audible output but I also wondered if I had to do something related to start becuase hypothetically this is button "a" function signal.

Level7 - set 2,3,4 "on"enables 30 second dome light, and 6,8 "on" to program lock mode fuction; output #2 is lock function signal needing negative pulse, remote button "b"(wht/blu utility connector) verify and program as in previous levels local dealer service told me something to program with  pulse after in this level. all other dips "off" and completed programming.

Level8 - 1,2,3 "on" , for negative hood switch polarity 4 is set "off", dealer mentioned pulse before for unlock sequence; output channel#3 is unlock function signal needing negative pulse, remote button "c" (wht wire at utility connector) and 5,6,8 "on" to program unlock mode function, all other dips set "off" and completed verify and program level, return all dips to off possition reapply brake to exit.

That is everything I did to try and restore something, failing that I'm already looking for a new remote. Again I haven't verified the connection on the alarm siren or for the dash LED so it's a bit difficult to tell if anything is attempting operation  but the continuous run has not been achieved yet becuase I can't get the remote to respond to lock, unlock command so far.

Don't know if this is correct but I do sincerely appreciate your help!

Nadda, nothing, zip, sfa,....lol

I'm pretty much convinced yup remote is dead but dealer tells me this three button remote is hard to come by....... but I saw them $59.00 already I had cover off RS MODULE and I saw relays which looked ok and manual test they did fire the circuits and closely checked all fuse protection already. Nothing found bad there.Voltage output to transponder and ground and data signal wire all test no open so really transponder is not likely suspect but the remote well if I had one I find out pretty quick. Any remote for this type of system should program no problem correct???I have a few remotes around maybe I should try them see if I can get anything happening.