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high beam flash arm/disarm


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casperrx 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: April 06, 2008
Posted: April 06, 2008 at 4:41 PM / IP Logged  
I am using a relay to make my current alarm installation flash my high beams when I Arm/Disarm my alarm.
Here is my diagram:
high beam flash arm/disarm -- posted image.
Ok here is the problem I am having. It works fine when i disarm/arm, but when I turn my headlights on the high beams come on with the headlights. Then when I pull the high beam switch the high beams come on brighter. So I don't understand what my problem is.
i am an idiot 
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Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: April 06, 2008 at 10:05 PM / IP Logged  

The relay is wired correctly, it should not affect anything other than flashing the lights when the alarm arms and disarms.  If you remove the relay, does everything go back to normal?    You may have to get the high beam wire instead of the flash to pass.

casperrx 
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Joined: April 06, 2008
Posted: April 07, 2008 at 12:06 AM / IP Logged  
Ya when the relay is unhooked everything is fine. I've tried wiring to the + on the high beams with the same outcome.
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,670
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Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: April 07, 2008 at 4:31 AM / IP Logged  
That's strange. When that relay is not energized, it is not (should not I guess I should say) doing anything. What brand is the relay? Have you tried a different relay?
tedmond 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: April 07, 2008 at 2:44 PM / IP Logged  

use negative triggers for the headlights. wire relay like so.

85 - alarm positive output from alarm

86 - ground
87 - high current ground
87a - highbeam neg wire (switch side)
30 - highbeam neg wire (bulb side)

doing it like so will prevent backfeed onto other lights.

casperrx 
Member - Posts: 7
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Joined: April 06, 2008
Posted: April 07, 2008 at 10:12 PM / IP Logged  
OK thanks guys will try tomorrow and let you know how it goes and what do you mean by high current ground? One that goes to the battery as opposed to the body?
tedmond 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: April 11, 2008 at 3:03 PM / IP Logged  
same thing as a good clean spot on the chassis.
dualsport 
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Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 17, 2008 at 10:47 PM / IP Logged  
tedmond, assuming the car is a standard negative ground vehicle, how does switching the ground path for the headlights light them up?
The problem is that your output from your alarm parking light output is connected directly to your relay coil since you don't have any isolation, so if you turn on your parking lights, the relay will turn on and close the contacts.
Best way to go about it is to add a relay driven by your alarm's parking light output, and use that to power your parking lights, and then use a second relay driven off the same line. That way turning on your parking lights won't energize this added relay.
davngr 
Copper - Posts: 109
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Joined: October 20, 2007
Posted: April 18, 2008 at 5:47 AM / IP Logged  

use diodes.    two       stripe going out to parking lights and relay from the alarm.  problem solved.

life is a comedy to think, a tragedy to feel
dualsport 
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Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 18, 2008 at 8:20 AM / IP Logged  
The lights draw a relatively large current, so it would require large diodes to handle it. Diodes in this case will waste power (approximate watts = current draw X 0.7V) so they'll get hot if the lights are on for any extended time. High beams of 110W will draw over 9A, so the diode will have will have to dissipate over 6W. Doesn't sound like much, but give it a try and see how hot that is when it's not going out as light.
If the alarm output is only on for very short periods you might get away with it. In any case, high current diodes would be necessary, the run of the mill 1N4001 1A diodes won't cut it.
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