Alarm 94 honda accord

jrilla wrote: [QUOTE=bizzy818] How do you just a dmm? thnx   Do you mean: "How do you use a DMM"? I am just making sure. if so, are you talking about in General? or do you mean only practical purposes for installing remote starters and alarms? If I was you I would go ahead and install a starter alarm combo in your own car. Doing your own install is the best teacher. I only use a DMM for finding a tach signal and for resistor based anti-theft systems. Otherwise a handy test light will go a long way.

Sorry I meant how to use it when it comes to alarms. what you mean anti theft systems? which ones are does?

on the dip switch its says on=smart sense and off= spark plug r tach? how does the smart sense work? and how would I know which setting to put it on? thnx

a test light in todays cars?!?   I know its unlikely that you'd fry a computer or pop an airbag, but why risk it?  That'd be a mighty costly mistake.

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"Twins, Basil. Twins."

Does every car have the relay for starter kill or you have to buy it? Most alarms come with the relay for starter kill. and how does it work? Someone correct me if I'm wrong...When the car is "armed", the relay will prevent the car from being started. If the key is inserted and turned, the alarm will sound. When the car is disarmed, however, then the relay allows the car to be started. I'm sure you can get a better explanation that that, though. Whats the best place to connect battery constant 12V power? I like to grab 12v power from the ignition switch under the dash. If you take off the driver's "knee" panel, you'll probably see a lot of black tape and loom. That's what's usually covering the wires from the ignition switch. In there, there's wires for 12v constant, 12v switched, and other stuff. I like to follow that wire down a bit, and then connect to it there. If it's something big, though, like an amplifier, I grab the 12v directly from the battery under the hood by going through the firewall.

I usually use the tach setting. I believe the "smart sense" is the same thing as "tachless". I've installed remote starters before using the tachless feature, and they never worked as well. As soon as I hooked up the remote starter to the car's tach wire, it started perfect everytime. I think a lot of people will agree that it will start much better if you use the tach. If you have trouble locating the tach wire, post what car and alarm you have, and we'll help you find it.

jrilla wrote: If you are just installing an alarm you should only need one Ignition. Tapping a second ignition is for remote starters. What do you mean by "Wy do we use the (-) output of the window and not the (+) for window roll up?" Are you asking why we use the negative output of an alarm to trigger a window roll-up module?

Yes.

jrilla wrote: TACHOMETER is blue or yel/grn at the ignition coil. This is for remote starters to let the unit know when the car is started. You can also use an uncommon colored injector wire. Are you referring to Vacuum locks? if so it is a type of door locks that require relays to trigger the door locks. If you are not referring to this, then some remote starters have an alternative input to the tach signal to let the unit know the car is running. If you cannot find a tach signal, then you can use a vacuum switch instead, that you must install inline with the vehicles vacuum hose.

what you mean by this (You can also use an uncommon colored injector wire.)

Where is the vehicles vacuum hose? thnx 

jrilla wrote: If you want to have a starter kill feature which will open the circuit that your starter is on when the alarm is armed, you need to use that wire to trigger a 30amp relay. This feature is not necessary but it is a very standard feature on an alarm. If you wish to use this feature, that wire you are asking about goes to pin 85 on the relay, Pin 86 goes to an ignition wire, pin 30 goes to the key side of the cut starter wire, and pin 87a goes to the engine side of the starter wire.

I have to buy the relay? or the car has it?

There are only two wires at each injector. Every injector shares one common wire color leaving the other wire at each with a unique color. You can grab any one of the unique wire colors. I would not worry about the vacuum since you will likely never need to use this method. J Rilla

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