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what deck to choose?


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dragon51 
Copper - Posts: 283
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 22, 2005
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: April 10, 2008 at 6:00 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks may be then, I think I will contact them. I really like the deck.
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,598
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: April 10, 2008 at 6:38 PM / IP Logged  
What knob quit working on your deck?    Was it the volume control? 
haemphyst 
Platinum - Posts: 5,053
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: April 10, 2008 at 9:31 PM / IP Logged  
Actually, it is true about the Eclipse parts... They REALLY don't like to release parts to anybody, even authorized retialers.
I had a friend who was a tech in an Eclipse "Authorized Retailer", and he was certificated from nearly every manufacturer, and he could tell you what was wrong with a deck before he opened it - he really was that good - and HE couldn't get a volume control for my 8051.
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,598
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: April 10, 2008 at 10:46 PM / IP Logged  
The volume controls on those decks can be repaired. Do you still have your 8051?
haemphyst 
Platinum - Posts: 5,053
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: April 10, 2008 at 11:49 PM / IP Logged  
Yes, I do... It needs feed rollers, as well. Can those be gotten, too?
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,598
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: April 11, 2008 at 5:54 AM / IP Logged  

Nope can't get the feed rollers.  Can't get the volume control either, but it can actually be repaired, not replaced. 

Is the rubber on the feed rollers physically damaged or is it just free spinning on the shaft?

haemphyst 
Platinum - Posts: 5,053
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: April 11, 2008 at 9:54 AM / IP Logged  
It's the encoder inside. The rubber is fine, and it still makes the mechanical "clicks" or "detents" when I turn it. I just have to ALWAYS turn it really, really slow (like 2 clicks a second) to make the volume go the way I am telling it to go, otherwise it just gets confused.
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
dragon51 
Copper - Posts: 283
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 22, 2005
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: April 11, 2008 at 7:19 PM / IP Logged  

On mine the volume works but when you push it in to get to the function bass ,treble  ect. that is the part that dose not work. It's controlled by a black circuit but it's not labeled so the tech told me it could be 5 different ones. He did send it as a fax to the eclipse manufacture but they said they don’t know what it is and the employee’s that made that deck are no longer are there.

 

I cant remember the model number right now but I got it in 1996 it’s a very simple looking deck but it sounds outstanding. It’s currently in my wife’s car paired up with a older Eclipse 4 channel amp with a separate sub output. So I have had to use the amp for all the tuning of the system.

i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,598
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: April 11, 2008 at 8:42 PM / IP Logged  

I know for sure that Haem's can be repaired.  I have never had the push button switch fail on one.  The following will probably fix that one too.   You have to remove the control from the circuit board.  You will need preferably a solder sucker, if you have to buy one for this project, do yourself a favor and get an EDSYN soldapult.  I have not bought a small one lately but the soldapult III will cost you about 20 bucks locally.  To remove the pot from the board you need to remove all of the solder from the 2 pieces of the frame of the pot.   These are the 2 large solder pads.  To make sure all of the solder is off of that let it cool and make sure both pieces of the frame will move side to side.  Then you need to put extra solder on the 5 remaining connections of the pot.  After they are full of solder with your finger on the shaft of the pot, gently appying pressure to it, in order to rock it out of the board, heat up the 2 connections on one side of the pot.  Do not try to remove the legs completly, we will gently walk it out.  next we need to heat up the 3 connections on the other side, applying pressure to rock the shaft the other way.  Once it comes up a bit, take a break and let it cool down,  we don't want to melt the inside of it.  After it cools, heat the 2 connectors and now you can pull enough to get those legs out.  Do not pull hard, when it comes out you could bend the 3 legs still in the board.  Now heat the 3 legs and get them out.  I know you are asking yourself, why not use the solder sucker.  It is much safer and easier on the circuit board if the solder is melted.  Melted solder will not rip up a trace on the board.  The last thing you will need to buy to complete the process is a 3/4 inch pipe nipple 4 inches or so long, and 2 pvc threaded pipe caps. We need to drill a 1/4 inch or so hole in one of the pipe caps.  Screw the non holed pipe cap onto the nipple drop the control into the nipple with the shaft facing up.  Shoot enough WD - 40 to cover the control.  Screw the other cap onto our pipe bomb.  Now you will need an air compressor and a blow nozzle.  A rubber tipped nozzle works best.  We need to pressurize the bomb to get the WD into the sealed control.    Pressurize it several times.  Remove the end and remove the control and immediately turn it back and forth several times.  notice all of the dark wd that comes out of it.    Now use the solder sucker to remove the solder from the 5 holes and put it back in.

dragon51 
Copper - Posts: 283
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 22, 2005
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: April 12, 2008 at 5:48 PM / IP Logged  
Thank you for the write up I have saved it for a later date, once I replace that deck with a newer Eclipse I will then take on that then use it in my vehicle.
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