what deck to choose?

Nope can't get the feed rollers.  Can't get the volume control either, but it can actually be repaired, not replaced. 

Is the rubber on the feed rollers physically damaged or is it just free spinning on the shaft?

On mine the volume works but when you push it in to get to the function bass ,treble  ect. that is the part that dose not work. It's controlled by a black circuit but it's not labeled so the tech told me it could be 5 different ones. He did send it as a fax to the eclipse manufacture but they said they don’t know what it is and the employee’s that made that deck are no longer are there.

I cant remember the model number right now but I got it in 1996 it’s a very simple looking deck but it sounds outstanding. It’s currently in my wife’s car paired up with a older Eclipse 4 channel amp with a separate sub output. So I have had to use the amp for all the tuning of the system.

I know for sure that Haem's can be repaired.  I have never had the push button switch fail on one.  The following will probably fix that one too.   You have to remove the control from the circuit board.  You will need preferably a solder sucker, if you have to buy one for this project, do yourself a favor and get an EDSYN soldapult.  I have not bought a small one lately but the soldapult III will cost you about 20 bucks locally.  To remove the pot from the board you need to remove all of the solder from the 2 pieces of the frame of the pot.   These are the 2 large solder pads.  To make sure all of the solder is off of that let it cool and make sure both pieces of the frame will move side to side.  Then you need to put extra solder on the 5 remaining connections of the pot.  After they are full of solder with your finger on the shaft of the pot, gently appying pressure to it, in order to rock it out of the board, heat up the 2 connections on one side of the pot.  Do not try to remove the legs completly, we will gently walk it out.  next we need to heat up the 3 connections on the other side, applying pressure to rock the shaft the other way.  Once it comes up a bit, take a break and let it cool down,  we don't want to melt the inside of it.  After it cools, heat the 2 connectors and now you can pull enough to get those legs out.  Do not pull hard, when it comes out you could bend the 3 legs still in the board.  Now heat the 3 legs and get them out.  I know you are asking yourself, why not use the solder sucker.  It is much safer and easier on the circuit board if the solder is melted.  Melted solder will not rip up a trace on the board.  The last thing you will need to buy to complete the process is a 3/4 inch pipe nipple 4 inches or so long, and 2 pvc threaded pipe caps. We need to drill a 1/4 inch or so hole in one of the pipe caps.  Screw the non holed pipe cap onto the nipple drop the control into the nipple with the shaft facing up.  Shoot enough WD - 40 to cover the control.  Screw the other cap onto our pipe bomb.  Now you will need an air compressor and a blow nozzle.  A rubber tipped nozzle works best.  We need to pressurize the bomb to get the WD into the sealed control.    Pressurize it several times.  Remove the end and remove the control and immediately turn it back and forth several times.  notice all of the dark wd that comes out of it.    Now use the solder sucker to remove the solder from the 5 holes and put it back in.