791 xv 2000 jeep grand cherokee

faberry1, The Grand Cherokee can be a very difficult car to do without a doorlock module, or a very easy car with modules and enough research beforehand. A few thoughts: --Use the search feature here. The Grand Cherokee was the same from 1999 to 2004, and was talked about a lot around here when it was in production. Should be lots of information to be found. --Many of us just tap a wire into the factory parking light relay, instead of using the resistor. (Should be able to find this info with search feature.) --The XK01 can be programmed with different firmware, for many different cars. (GM, Hyundai, etcetera.) Especially since you're overseas, make sure you buy it from someone who promises to pre-load it with the Jeep firmware for you. --I think bypasskit.com also makes a piece that's essentially an XK01 and a 555C combined into one part. Makes for a slightly cleaner install, but it's not really necessary. I think it's a JDL-PKUCH or something like that? --You don't need the D2D port. It's just to save you a little bit of time, and make the installation neater. From my experience and my co-workers', D2D doesn't work right half the time anyway. So I wouldn't worry about it. All you have to do is connect the corresponding wires from the doorlock module to those of the remote starter....... remote starter's lock wire to the module's lock wire, and so forth. --Like others have said, the 555C can be tricky. It's super simple to program, but the idea of playing around to locate that pellet in a spot that'll work, is one of the dumbest things I've ever seen. But, all it takes really is patience and calmness, and you'll eventually get a spot where it'll work.

My 2 cents on this issue...Bypasskit JDL-PK or XK531 with the JDL 1.00 firmware combine doorlock control and immobilizer bypass. I would suggest the JDL-PK since they both install the same way and you're guaranteed not to get the wrong firmware. Also, either of those pieces don't have the disadvantage of the 555C - they have a ring which goes around the key cylinder instead of the pellet. In my experience with both, the Bypasskit pieces are much less touchy than the 555C.C Renner's Auto Electronix

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For both of you thanks a bunch. You may not know how hard it is to get the right stuff. I'm always a great big fan of research before doing any electronic device out there. There are so many precautions and so on. So D2D doesn't work well. That's good to know. So that is what I thought about the lights, I never put an extra relay or resistor, just use the existing relay. I'm going to look at this bypasskit JDL-PK I looked at them before, and came accross one site on ebay and had a company say if you are going to order one to call and let them know what firmware you want on it. Thanks. Now if I purchase one of these it should already have the transponder bypass and immonilizer built in it right? I know the XK01 says it does. Chris Luongo you are saying to hook the wires of the bypass unit directly to the remote start system and your pretty much done? Anyways what my real problem is I bought a Chilton manual and the wireing diagrams and the wiring diagrams of the 12volt website don't match. Should I be worried, or dig in and find out for myself? Iknow I can install it I've done all my vehicles because I have high dollar stereo equipment and go to competitions all have done myself. So it's not all new to me just a little confusion. As I said before thaks and I will keep checking back.Ricky Berryman

2000 Mazda Protege

US.Army

Mechanic

Yes, JDL-PK, that's what I was thinking of. I've only installed one, but it worked very well. To try to answer your other questions: There aren't really that many wires to find in your Jeep. But anyway, any of the wire-color-sheets for a 99-2004 (you could probably find one searching here, I would think) should be good....but along with that, you want to test everything. Even a cheapie test light works fine, as long as you're not probing airbag wires with it. If you go to bypasskit.com, you can read the installation instructions right on the website. Pretty much, the module needs power, ground, a bunch of connections from the module to your remote starter.......and one connection from the module to the data (computer) wire in the car. You can do all that work with the bypass module as part of your bench prep. You could velcro or double-stick-tape the module to the back of your remote starter brain..........or leave its wires long and mount it somewhere separate, whichever you like. But either way, basically yeah, you just connect all the corresponding wires from the doorlock module to the remote starter. I also take the module's ground and power wires, and splice them onto the remote starter's power and ground wires during my prep. As far as a basic install on your Grand Cherokee, there aren't many wires you need to find anyway: --Main ignition harness: When you drop down the driver's dash panel, and unbolt the metal knee brace behind it for easier access, the six heavy wires coming down the steering column are practically staring at you. --Brake wire: I just slightly twist to the left the brake-pedal switch, which releases it from its mount and then drops down. At that point, there's enough slack to make an easy connection. --Door trigger wire: I forget if the doorlock module already gives you a door trigger output to use for your alarm? Even if it doesn't, most Grand Cherokees have an underdash courtesy light.....you'll see it right there while you're working. --Factory parking light relay: Above the driver's fuse box is a bank of fuses. Touch each relay with something solid (like a screwdriver), while turning the lights on and off, until you feel which is the parking light relay. You can tap your (negative) parking light wire in there, to terminal 86 of the relay. --Tachometer: Whether yours is a six or an eight cylinder, the fuel injectors should be right there on top of the motor. The factory hood-release cable, where it passes through the firewall, I think you can pass your tach wire through there. That's really about all you have to find. P.S. On the side of the driver's lower dash, visible only with the door open, is a single Philips screw. Make sure you don't forget to have a stubby screwdriver, or a right-angle screwdriver, to get that off.

Thank you chriswallace. I will be ordering the JDL-PK. Do you know if it still has the window roll-up and defrost or HVAC feature on it. I know the XK01 does or I think it does. I believe it is a wiring thing or you have to put in a certain mode or something like that right? Anyways I found one online for about 62 bucks. I couldn't find on on ebay since they are the cheapest in my opinion. If the JDL-PK doesn't I will lean towards the XK01 since it does and it is much more cheaper 45 bucks. I know it is not necessary but I found an XK Loader there for about the same price, so this will eleminate the firmware update if I run into a problem. So thanks again and I appreciate the info. Hope to here your opinion later.Ricky Berryman

2000 Mazda Protege

US.Army

Mechanic

You may also want to search for a "DEI 455J" for the doorlocks. This is the first module that DEI came out with to control the doorlocks on the 1999-2003 Grand Cherokee. I used that module many times back when I was installing and it works great with no programming required.

Actually the JDL-PK doesn't do the window roll-up/heated seats if the temp is below 32F, the XK01 does. The XK01 won't bypass the immobilizer though...it only disarms the alarm, so you'd need a separate piece to do that(PKU-CH should work).C Renner's Auto Electronix

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Ok gentlemen. I'm still a little confused. Sorry, please bare with me. I did a little more research and the XK531 looks like the best choice for me. It does have the immobilizer, transponder bypass, window roll up on /off, defrost, and etc...Features. Now my confusion is how in the heck can you have a box with only ten wires, hooking these wires to the viper 791xv and it work all these features? I've tried to study this I am pretty good with electronics, but my guess would be, the XK531 sends the signals from the OBDII pin 2 wire in the vehicle, the other 7 wires; since PK/WT and PK wires are not used. connect these wires to the wires of the viper 791xv unit. The defrost aux output wire from the alarm will not be used, the trunck/hatch release aux output wire from the alarm will not be used, and so on; as it is recieving the signal from the XK531 unit. Am I correct or am I just not getting it. Also it says it has an RS- 2nd Start Wire Activation (Mux) wire 2 wire feature, again as I said before. I basically know the XK531 recieves the signal from the OBDII pin 2 connection from the vehicle, but where do you make these connections on the 791xv unit? Like I said just a little confused. If I don't understand something I really don't want to do something if you know what I mean. In turn I don't want to waste the alarm either. Anyways any info would help because these install manuals are't really helping. I want to do it with fewer difficulties. Thanks again to the people of 12volts.Ricky Berryman

2000 Mazda Protege

US.Army

Mechanic

Basically you've got it...there's a whole bunch of stuff that can be done with J1850(Class II) data on the '99-'04 Grand Cherokee. The door lock control, factory alarm arm/disarm, window roll-up/down, and climate control on your vehicle are done over the class II data line, not with conventional wires. Trunk/hatch isn't...but obviously you don't have a remote with trunk pop, just a glass hatch that you can open with the button on the gate if the car's unlocked. The 2nd start/mux output from the XK531 isn't used on your vehicle. That applies to some of the more recent Chrysler designs('01 minivans were the first) which don't have a conventional ignition switch. The ground-when-running output to the XK531 enables multiple functions as does the lock output.C Renner's Auto Electronix

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