08 tacoma remote start, random musings

That would be stellar if the wires could be accessed at the cluster - I'll have to try that on the next Toyota I do. Any of you guys who have access to Mitchell/ALLDATA able to offer an explanation of which modules the IMI/IMO wires typically go to? Also, I meant to put this in my original post - the constant feeds to the ign. switch are WHITE/ blue and WHITE/ red, fused at 50A and 30A respectively. The WHITE/ red powers up the WHITE/ green Acc. and GREEN/ black Starter 2...the WHITE/ blue powers the rest. Additionally - I disassembled the PRO9276 and found that the RED / white 12V input powers the start and ign2, the red 12v input powers acc and ign1.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Ok guys. I new here to the forum. I've been in the 12 volt industry off and on for 16 years. I used to do it pro back in the mid 90's but i'm off on todays new stuff. Anyway, My friend and former boss who is the man for remote starts and myself just put on a Clifford 55.x thing alarm and remote start on my brand new toyato tacoma and it was running late so we still have some odd and ends to do. Everything works fine. Alarm is great and the remote start works good too!!! The problem for now is the truck has self canceling head lights on it so that when you leave the lights turned on and then you cut the truck off as soon as you open the door the headlights will cut off. the problem is when we crank it with the remote start the headlights cut on and the then if we use the remote start to cut it off then the headlights stays on waiting for someone to open the door. you can disarm the alam open the door and the lights will go off. So for now i just have to remember to cut the headlights off and on.....no big deal but its easier just to leave them on. Any suggestions. Thanks Jon

The lights shut off automatically with ignition off and (I believe it has to be the driver's) door open. Simple enough solution - connect the factory rearm (-) wire from the Clifford to the driver's door trigger wire at the back of the fusebox. Since the ignition's off at that point, the lights will go out. The only problem there is that you have an alarm/RS combo, and the alarm looks for a door trigger at all times when it's armed. The factory rearm wire sends out a (-) pulse whenever the Clifford is armed via remote, and whenever the remote start shuts down. This is a problem whenever you shut the remote start off while the system is armed, because the alarm sees an open door trigger and will start going off at that point. The solution to that will depend on where you've connected your door trigger input. 1. If you've used the individual door wires, you'll need to put a diode inline on the driver's door wire going to the fusebox. The striped(cathode) side of the diode must face away from the fusebox; the door input to the alarm must be connected on the striped side, and the factory rearm must be connected on the other side. 2. If you've connected the door trigger to the ajar indicator wire, I would suggest using a relay to interrupt it (the door trigger) at the time that the rearm (-) pulse is sent. Wire the relay as follows: 85 factory rearm output 86 12V constant 87a, 30 each goes to one side of the door trigger wire after you cut it. Since the factory rearm wire is also going to the driver's door switched wire, you'll need to place a diode inline on it, with the striped side facing away from the door switched wire(otherwise the driver's door won't set off the alarm ever). This is a bit complicated, but your buddy should know how to do it. If you want a diagram, PM me and specify where you've hooked the door trigger up to.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

ok. Your right bout we just hooked into the door ajar wire. the relay and the rearm along with the diode on the ajar pick up makes sense. We knew that we would figure something out when we had more time but i didnt know if any company made something that would fix this or if just using a relay would be easier. Thanks I'll pass the word to him and I'll keep checking back here for some more info. Seems like some great knowledge here. Thanks again, Jon

I'm pretty sure you have to send the rearm to the driver's door switch and not the door ajar indicator in order to shut the headlights off.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Ok. sry for all my questions but my installer went to the beach for the weekend and i have a few more questions but i cant ask till Wend. On the clifford remote start for a 08 from the question above. With the lights on and the normal truck running under its own power when i turn off the truck and open the door then the headlights turn off auto which is correct. However when i arm or disarm the alarm i dont get any flashing park lights. Kinda like opening the door takes the whole light circuit out of the equation. So i gotta figure a way round that. also have the check engine light coming on. it says something like it cant tell what gear the trucks in. Havent used remote start all weekend and get no light. but for 2 days before my friend left i got it twice. both times had to clear it out with his controller and it was the same code both times. Any help? Thanks Jon

For the flashing lights issue...that will happen if you used the (-) parking light wire. The truck ignores that and the headlight wire from the switch if it was left on. Use the (+) wire which actually activates the bulbs and you'll be allright there. For the check engine...make sure that you have 2 ignition and 2 starter wires connected correctly, and that they are powering up as they should(I mean that you don't have the ignition powering as an accessory especially).C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two