inverted subs in slot ported

if you really want to play with bridging amps... There's about 1320watts there. Each kenwood is a 4-channel amp and the Rockford is a mono. One Kenwood powers the front components as a 2-channel bridged stereo amp, the other powers the rear components as a 2-channel bridged stereo amp, and the Rockford powers the (2) 2ohm DVC's as a mono amp. Squirrel

"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"

If its too loud, then you're too old

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Show off !!!! :-p ....Im about to get a Cap tommorow and see how that helps my stereo system...I've noticed on hard beats my components distort not because there not good or blown...infact its just the opposite Polk Audio and Power Bass make some fantastic Component speakers Its just I belive the amp pulls so much juice they then dont have enough to power the components if you know what I mean...Any ideas if this can be true or not? and I decided to not Invert the subs on a side note

Forgot to ask is it better to Sit below the Speakers RMS like mine are 350watt 4ohm SVC X2 so 700 watts running on a 600.2 (dual channel amp) so im short about 100 watts and I can get some clipping...or Sit above like say a 800watt amp and not have as much clipping but have a chance to blow the subs...wich is better ?

Caps are ment for voltage regulation, not battery/alternator fixes. They smooth out the voltage to keep a constant SQ level throughout. Your alternator is rated to produce "x" amount of voltage. The entire vehicle electrical system uses that voltage (lights, ignition, stereo, etc). When the bass hits hard the amp draws more current. The increased current draw pulls voltage away from the other electrical components (like the lights). A cap allows the amp to draw the extra power from it while limiting the draw from the other electrical components. Yes they store juice, but they also need to be replenished. So just adding a cap only adds one more thing that your alternator needs to recharge! If your lights are dimming when the bass hits then odds are you need a larger alternator and possibly a better battery. For the strongest stereo you can have, you need to make sure that there is enough power being produced by the alternator to support it as well as the normal functions of the car! You should also look into upgrading the wiring from the alternator to the battery, the battery to ground, and the engine to ground. Read the sticky here for more info. As for the RMS levels, I always try to match the sub(s) and amp(s) as closely as possible. total RMS of the subs = RMS output of the amp For example I'm running (2) 500w RMS 1000w Peak subs. The combined subs rating is 1000RMS 2000Peak, so I went with a quality amp producing a reliable 1000w RMS (500/sub). A perfect match in my book. The largest I would have recommended someone getting with those subs is an amp that puts out 1500w RMS (750w per sub), since the combined RMS is 1000 and half the difference between combined RMS (1000) and Peak (2000) is 500. Although I usually play it safe (since I don't have a lot of $ to throw around if something goes wrong) and stick to RMS matching If you underpower a sub there is less chance of damaging it, but they usually don't sound quite as good as they would with the correct power rating. "Clipping" occurs when you have the Gains turned up too high (normally because the amp is underpowering the subs and the user wants more power). Clipping is not a good idea and can damage your amp and/or subs. Make sure the gains are set properly. If it still isn't loud enough then you need a larger amp or a different enclosure. Squirrel

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yea the max of the subs is 700 each 350rms each so if i got a 1200amp that would put about 600 each so I should be alright then? And I'll def look into the "big 3" sticy I've heard that term used more then once and wasn't exactly sure what it is. The alternator in my car is a brand new Aftermarket Alternator the ones in the nissan altima stock weren't enough and are a common problem with the Alty so I replaced that as soon as I got the car. As far as ground goes I can easly Replace the ground with a 1 gauge wire to the chassis/Frame. I'll read some more before I post Again and thanks for all the replys :)And the pleasant reply's without flame and Learn to Search etc....I'll be sure to return the favor to others when I learn a little more :)

I think I must have edited that last post at least 5 times because I couldn't get it to sound right *lmao* To me 600w would be pushing it for a 350w sub. I wouldn't recommend an amp with more than 500w per sub (1000w RMS total). But then again a lot of amplifiers don't even produce the RMS power they are rated at. When they test their amps a lot of companies will use a 14v system (not 12v) to get as much out of the amp as possible. Then they "claim" their amp will produce "x" amount of watts. That's why you see a lot of cheap amps claiming thousands of watts, because they did it on a 14v test block for a split second before they melted! Glad to help.Squirrel

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aww so the 600 is doing alright then im not under watting my subs and damaging them alright good.. and a 1000watt wouldnt hurt them either but would push them a little more and probably break in the cone some more... should i stick to a D grade amp if I upgrade? also sorry for not using punctuation was smoking a cig at the time.

Also when I say 600 I mean total its a 600x2 so 300 each and 1000x2 so 500 each. Also done smoking cig now and I can use proper grammar Rofl.

Class D = mono block amplifier (subs) Class A/B = stereo amplifier (components/cabin speakers) When I referenced 1000w it was 1000x1@xohms which translates to 500x2@xohms or each sub gets 500watts. Wattage x #channels @ "x" ohms. The rating is how many watts each channel receives. If it's an "x2" like 500x2 then each channel receives 500 watts. What amp are you referring to? A 1200x1@xohms (which you referenced earlier) would translate to 600x2@xohms (600w per sub, not 300w). This would be too much for a 350w sub IMO. If you are talking about a 600x1@xohms amp (and not 600x2) then it would be 300x2@xohms or 300w per sub. In this case it's fine. Under powering by 50w is nothing to be concerned about.Squirrel

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To put it another way, Class D amps only have 1 channel (mono). All the wattage is split between all the subs on that channel. So a 1000x1@xohm mono amp will always be 1000x1@xohm (and yes if you change the ohm load the wattage will change as well). If I hook up 2 subs to it, then each sub will receive 500w a piece since 1000/2=500. Multi-channel amps have different ratings because you can have 2, 3, or 4 channels depending on the amp. The rating given for each number of channels is the total wattage each channel receives. For example an 80x2@xohms rating means that each channel will receive 80w when an 'x'ohm load is presented.Squirrel

"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"

If its too loud, then you're too old

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