2001 Toyota Sienna Alarm/Remote Start, Stereo Wiring

Go to this link for the diagram for the Toyota child safety lock relay: https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page4.asp#tc & I'm not familiar with either brand of the alarms that you have above so I can't help you with an additional information.

one more question...just wondering the sienna already has a keyless entry system....when i take the car apart will it have a control module somewhere there?  if so can i just use the wires in there or do i have to take the whole module out and start from scratch...thanks.

• Dexinefx you can avoid the override the child safety by tapping the key wires

• 18ga. Blue/White (-) at same (also locks doors and engages switch lockout)

  18ga. Blue / YELLOW (-) at same (also unlocks doors and overrides switch lockout)

• You find these wires at the base of fuse box it a brown plug facing down

I do alarm installs for dealers, and the local Toyota dealer is one of my biggest accounts.  I've been doing a lot of extensive research on these cars when I have the time.  I've only done about three Siennas, but I do believe I have a handle on this whole "child safety" issue, which I believe to be an incorrect term.

Here's how ALL modern Toyota power door locks work.  And you can even walk out to your van and test this for yourself.  (Open a window to make the test easier.)  If you press the power Lock button on the door, and then close it, the Unlock button becomes disabled.  (Presumably, this is so a thief can't just poke a stick into the car and push the Unlock button.)

However, if you close the door first, and then reach in the window and press Lock, you'll discover that the Unlock button will still work normally.

Now, suppose you install an alarm or keyless entry unit, and you tie the alarm's lock/unlock outputs into the wires coming off the switch on the door.  If you close the door first, and then lock it with your remote, you're never going to have a problem.  But one day, you'll press Lock on the door just for the hell of it, or you'll press Arm on your remote before you've closed the door.........and then you'll find that your remote will no longer unlock the doors.

There are ways to trick the system into working.  There is a "door lock detection" wire, commonly called a "child safety" wire.  It will show negative whenever the door is physically unlocked.  If you use your alarm's output to energize the switch-Unlock wire, and the detection wire, at the same time--the car will unlock reliably.  However, there is no need whatever to do this.

What you're looking for, is another pair of wires, that you test by operating the key in the door.  Yes, they'll test by turning the key, but not by pressing the Lock/Unlock button on the door panel.  If you use the key-cylinder wires, the doors will reliably unlock 100% of the time, no matter what the car owner does.

I forget the colors offhand, but you can find the correct Lock and Unlock wires in either kick panel.  The passenger kick panel's Unlock wire will open all doors, with a single negative pulse.  The driver kick panel Unlock wire will open only the driver's door on the first pulse, and the second pulse will unlock all doors.  Use whichever one you prefer.  (Not all alarms offer two-stage unlocking either.)  The wires in the passenger kick are blue/white and blue / YELLOW; I forget what the driver's side ones are.

The RED / white door trigger at the fuse box IS affected by the car's dome light delay, and I'm pretty sure it doesn't catch the rear hatch either.  Many alarms will emit a multitude of ghastly chirps when they detect that the delayed domelight has stayed on.  (Some models have a programming option to delete the chirps, some don't.)  Also, if you're setting the system for passive arming (which you shouldn't do anyway), the system won't beging to arm until after the domelight has gone out.   have a better solution.

Get on your back with a good light in hand.  High up behind the dash, on the driver's side, you'll see a bundle of wires, about 1 1/2" thick, running out to under the hood.  You'll see another bundle, about 1/2" thick, branching off and running upward.  These are the wires that go up to the instrument cluster.  If you gently pull, a good amount of slack will come down; use a razor knife to open up the harness.

In that harness, there's a RED / white door trigger wire, that is unaffected by the domelight delay.  It also catches the rear hatch.  (There's also a WHITE/ red in that harness, so don't get confused.)  Also, if you're doing remote start, light GREEN/ black is tachometer.  If you have trouble getting enough slack in the wires under the dash, you could always just remove the instrument cluster; it's only like six screws.

I have some more notes on this van, but not with me right now.  Let me know if you have more questions.

Also, here's the tech sheet given out by DEI, makers of Viper/Python/Sidewinder/Clifford/Avital:

|       ITEM      |     WIRE COLOR     |POL|       WIRE LOCATION        |

Notes:

There's no need to find or remove the factory keyless; keep it in place for when you sell the car.  If you're keeping the car a long time, remove the batteries from the factory remotes, as batteries can sometimes leak after they sit around for a few years.

The installer on your 2001 Corolla was probably using the wires that test off the passenger key cylinder, which is what most tech sheets show.  If you're curious, run through the procedure I mention above.  Open a window.  Open the door.  Press Lock on the the door.  Close the door.  .......... Reach in the window and press Unlock; you can't get it to open, can you?  Now, press Disarm on your alarm's remote--does the door unlock now?  If so, the installer caught the correct wires.  If it doesn't unlock, that means he incorrectly used the wires coming from the switch, but you never ran into the problem until now.

So in any event, just use the wires in either kick panel, that test by turning the key back and forth in the keyhole in the door.  That's all you need.  If your alarm has two-stage unlocking, hook up both of its unlock outputs to the correct key-unlock wire in the driver's kick.  If your alarm has a single stage unlock, hook it up in the passenger kick.  (Or, if you're too lazy to run wires over to the passenger side----hook it up in the driver's kick, but program the brain to pulse this wire twice when you press the disarm button--you should find that feature in the programming instructions of the alarm.)

Will your alarm also be equipped with a remote start?  Does your van have the transponder chip in the key?