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rear defrost, alarm


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shagdrum 
Copper - Posts: 68
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 31, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: September 14, 2008 at 5:28 PM / IP Logged  

I just installed a Viper 5701 alarm with remote start in my 1996 Lincoln Mark VIII. The DEI printout for the car and the wire sheet on this site don't list a wire for the rear defrost. On one of the forum's unique to the car, the best explaination I could find was this:

Without taking the switch apart and soldering wires in it that are triggered by a relay to act as the button, it isn't going to work well.

You could wire a relay directly into the power for the grids, but that would be a bigger wire to handle the current and it wouldn't be timed etc unless you can program that in with the alarm/relay. Modifying the switch with the wires is the easiest way imho, as it keeps the timing circuit and will turn off etc like normal.

Is there a better, or easier way to go about hookin up the rear defrost? How would I find the wire I need to tap? Do I need to worry about the timing circuit thing?

icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: September 15, 2008 at 2:27 AM / IP Logged  

I'd be interested to see if there is a better way too, as I have a '94 Mark VIII, subscribing to this thread :)

Here is a link to the thread where he got the info from me, if anyone wants to see the switch etc. I can post up a wiring diagram too of the switch.

How's the rest of the install going by the way?

·Ï¢årµ§·
rear defrost, alarm -- posted image.
chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 15, 2008 at 2:59 AM / IP Logged  
There are several types of rear window defroster setups including but not limited to:
1. The defroster switch has a timer and relay built into it(many GM vehicles).
2. The switch sends a pulse on a dedicated wire to an external controller, which activates a separate relay(probably most older Japanese imports).
3. The switch sends a data signal to an external controller, which activates a separate relay(some Chrysler products)
4. The switch sends a signal of either type and the controller has a built-in relay.
I would imagine yours is type 3, from the above description. The easiest way to control in this case is by activating the relay with the Viper's "2nd status/defrost output". Therefore you should look and listen for the relay clicking whenever you're turning the defroster on/off.
Once you've found the relay(pull it out of its socket and try the defroster again to confirm that you have the right one - if the defroster still works, keep searching), you'll need to figure out which terminal is the control circuit (on a standard SPDT relay it will be either terminal 85 or 86 - more often 85. I've yet to see a non-standard relay for a defogger on any car).
I've usually tested said relays by stripping a bit off of a wire, wrapping it around the suspected control terminal, reinserting the relay into the socket, and metering the other end of that wire. When doing this, you must be careful that your wire end does not have any loose strands that could short the terminal together.
The correct terminal will show a change in voltage when the defroster is activated. Usually it will go from 12V to 0V when activated, but on some vehicles it will go from 0 to 12(in which case you'll need to reverse the DEI unit's polarity).
Solder the control wire from the DEI to the proper relay terminal, and you'll be in good shape. DEI remote starts have a built in timer so you don't need to worry about a separate one.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: September 16, 2008 at 4:07 AM / IP Logged  

Chris,

I 'think' that the switch in our cars is similar to #1 you listed. There is heavy gauge wiring coming to and from it, to the grids on the mirrors and rear window. Here's one of the pictures I posted of the switch internals below. My suggestion and the switch I have that works, is solder wires off of the internal switch (the back side of the green dots in the pic below) and use them via a relay to activate it on/off (the relay would act like the switch then.)

Is there a better way to do it? There's more pictures in that link, and I can put up the wiring digram for it if you want as well...

rear defrost, alarm -- posted image.

·Ï¢årµ§·
rear defrost, alarm -- posted image.
chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 16, 2008 at 9:35 PM / IP Logged  
Right on, icarus. I looked at the pics in your above link, but that's definitely a "type 1" as I've defined them above. I can't tell you exactly what the 8-pin black component is (off the top of my head I was going to say a solid state timer, which would control the relay. I can't find a datasheet for it though); the component with the coil wrapped around it is certainly a relay for the grid. You can clearly see the giant traces from there to the connector.
It also appears that there's another 8-pin component hidden underneath the relay? I can't tell but I'm guessing that'd be an amplifier for the control output from that "timer".
At any rate, your method of connection there will work - also if you were trying to skimp on a relay you could solder the defroster output lead from the Viper directly to the control terminal for the factory relay there, assuming it's (-) controlled and the positive side of it is constant or ignition switched 12 volts.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: September 17, 2008 at 12:33 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the info Chris.

Hopefully shagdrum will chime in soon again ;)

·Ï¢årµ§·
rear defrost, alarm -- posted image.
shagdrum 
Copper - Posts: 68
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 31, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: September 17, 2008 at 10:25 AM / IP Logged  
I don't think I will mess with soldering on the circuit board. Where is that relay located?
chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 17, 2008 at 4:27 PM / IP Logged  
The existing relay is in the circuit board itself as well, as mentioned previously.
If you were so inclined you could just use the defroster (-) out from the Viper to connect to the 2 heavy gauge wires going to that switch. Make sure you have a relay that's rated at a higher current than the defogger switch is fused at, and wires of the same gauge as the 2 you're connecting. Wire as follows:
85: defroster (-) out
86: constant 12v +
87: 12v+ input to switch
30: defroster grid wire from switch
Most likely the heavy wire in to the switch is going to be constant 12 volts, in which case you can use it for pin 86 as well; however there's a slight chance it will be ignition or accessory, in which case it will still work presuming you've powered up the correct ign/acc wires, but you'll need your constant 12V for this relay to be connected elsewhere.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: September 18, 2008 at 5:58 AM / IP Logged  

If you do it the way Chris suggested in the above post, you'd need a 40A relay or higher. This circuit is protected by a main 40A fuse in the engine bay then goes through the defrost switch to the rear window element, it also branches off to a seperate10A fuse in the I/P fuse box (fuse 13), then to the side view mirror elements/compass module.

If you pull the connector off the defrost switch, you'll see 2 of the 5 tabs on the switch are much wider than the rest on one side (mine has the #'s 1 & 2 on it if you look close.) These are the two wires you'd use. The first one from the edge goes to the defrost grids, the second is the constant 12V input from the engine bay fuse panel, so you could use it on pin 86 as well like Chris mentioned...

·Ï¢årµ§·
rear defrost, alarm -- posted image.
icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: December 22, 2009 at 6:51 PM / IP Logged  

I finally got around to installing my modified switch in my car, and yes, I know it's been a year +, lol...

I used a relay to act as the momentary switch in the defrost switch housing like talked about above. I put the aux.1 wire from the remote start to 85, 12V to 86, and the switch wires from the defroster to 30 and 87.

The aux.1 wire is pulsed so it actuates the relay in place of the button you manually press on the dash for the defrost. This seems to work fine under remote start and normally, so this year I hope my defrost works when I want :)

·Ï¢årµ§·
rear defrost, alarm -- posted image.

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