06 caravan, remote starter

Adaseb, I responded to your other post. For future reference you shouldn't start a new thread for separate questions on the same install, just post them all in the original. No biggie though, you're new here. Clearly, one thing that may be confusing you is that you're looking at Directwire information(hence the references to those 2 documents) and Bypasskit info as well(they are owned by Directed now but weren't at the time the PKU-CH2X was developed). Anyway... Ignore Doc1083 completely(and the concerns you had about relay/diodes for the ground-when-running). The PKUCH2X takes care of the 2nd start via the wire(s) which go to the violet/brown on the car. This violet/brown wire, which runs from the ignition switch to the BCM, is

referred to in the complete vehicle wiring as the "2nd starter" and in Bypasskit's manual as the "mux". They are one and the same. The positive start and ignition don't need diode isolated whatsoever. For transponder programming - reread the 2nd page of the PKUCH2X's manual. The key disassembly method they show will work like a charm. C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

chriswallace187 wrote: Adaseb, I responded to your other post. For future reference you shouldn't start a new thread for separate questions on the same install, just post them all in the original. No biggie though, you're new here. Clearly, one thing that may be confusing you is that you're looking at Directwire information(hence the references to those 2 documents) and Bypasskit info as well(they are owned by Directed now but weren't at the time the PKU-CH2X was developed). Anyway... Ignore Doc1083 completely(and the concerns you had about relay/diodes for the ground-when-running). The PKUCH2X takes care of the 2nd start via the wire(s) which go to the violet/brown on the car. This violet/brown wire, which runs from the ignition switch to the BCM, is referred to in the complete vehicle wiring as the "2nd starter" and in Bypasskit's manual as the "mux". They are one and the same. The positive start and ignition don't need diode isolated whatsoever. For transponder programming - reread the 2nd page of the PKUCH2X's manual. The key disassembly method they show will work like a charm.

Thank you for the info. So that image that I uploaded in my other thread describing the "Chrysler 2nd starter diagram" I should ignore and instead just cut the Violet/Brown wire and connect the Ignition Harness side to the GREEN connection on the bypass and the BCM side of the wire to the Violet/White of the bypass correct?

So there is no need for the relay or the 180Ohm resistor?

Correct, ignore that other info - the PKUCH2X eliminates the need for the separate relay and resistor. You would cut the violet/brown only if the PKUCH2X has hardware version 1A or 2 according to the manual for it. Otherwise I think you would just connect the violet/white to it and ignore the green wire.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Thanks Chris I kept thinking adaseb and myself were running at cross purposes and I was digging myself in too deep, ditto the other non-cranking post. H

Howie, that's what I get paid absolutely nothing for. Adaseb, it's possible that you've got a faulty module. If for some reason it was ever programmed to another Chrysler vehicle it's useless on any other. Also, if you're trying to use the same key turning the ignition on twice, it's not going to ever going to go into programming mode. You have to have 2 different keys which will start the car. I would suspect more likely that you're not going into the program mode correctly. It definitely doesn't take an hour. What I'd suggest you do is the following way, which I've used on this style of Chrysler: Disassemble one of the 2 factory remote keys. Separate the circuit board(which contains the transponder) from the housing(which the key shaft is part of). Once you've done that, hold the circuit board close to the key cylinder with one hand and use the housing to turn the key to "run". When the red security light has gone off after 3 or 4 seconds or so, turn it off and set both pieces reasonably far away from the key cylinder(passenger or back seat will do). Within 10 seconds, take the other, still assembled remote key and turn the ignition to "run". This time the light should come on for the same 3 or 4 seconds, go off, and then between 10 or 20 seconds later the light will flash and/or a chime will sound. Once either of those happens you know you're in "programming mode". Within 60 seconds of that, grab the empty remote housing(keep the remote circuitry separate), hold the PKUCH2X up to the key cylinder as shown in the picture on page 2 of its manual, and turn the key to "run" again. Keep the PKUCH2X there until the security light stops flashing and/or you hear another chime.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

chriswallace187 wrote: Howie, that's what I get paid absolutely nothing for. Adaseb, it's possible that you've got a faulty module. If for some reason it was ever programmed to another Chrysler vehicle it's useless on any other. Also, if you're trying to use the same key turning the ignition on twice, it's not going to ever going to go into programming mode. You have to have 2 different keys which will start the car. I would suspect more likely that you're not going into the program mode correctly. It definitely doesn't take an hour. What I'd suggest you do is the following way, which I've used on this style of Chrysler: Disassemble one of the 2 factory remote keys. Separate the circuit board(which contains the transponder) from the housing(which the key shaft is part of). Once you've done that, hold the circuit board close to the key cylinder with one hand and use the housing to turn the key to "run". When the red security light has gone off after 3 or 4 seconds or so, turn it off and set both pieces reasonably far away from the key cylinder(passenger or back seat will do). Within 10 seconds, take the other, still assembled remote key and turn the ignition to "run". This time the light should come on for the same 3 or 4 seconds, go off, and then between 10 or 20 seconds later the light will flash and/or a chime will sound. Once either of those happens you know you're in "programming mode". Within 60 seconds of that, grab the empty remote housing(keep the remote circuitry separate), hold the PKUCH2X up to the key cylinder as shown in the picture on page 2 of its manual, and turn the key to "run" again. Keep the PKUCH2X there until the security light stops flashing and/or you hear another chime.

Thats what I have been doing with the 2 keys. I actually even have 3 keys for this car. I did exactly the steps that you've stated and with the 2nd key it for sure entered programming mode. What I suspect is that they could of sold me a faulty bypass module or a already programmed one.

That may be the case if you're doing all the above steps. Where was this unit purchased from? One other thing...I've just noticed this supplement from Bypasskit in regards to programming with a remote key. The position of the bypass in this document is slightly different so I'd recommend you take a look.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

chriswallace187 wrote: That may be the case if you're doing all the above steps. Where was this unit purchased from? One other thing...I've just noticed this supplement from Bypasskit in regards to programming with a remote key. The position of the bypass in this document is slightly different so I'd recommend you take a look.

I bought it from a local aftermarket auto place here in Canada. I will call them and see if I can exchange it for another unit or if they can program it themselves. I basically tried holding the transponder every possible way. I tried with the cover and without and no luck what-so-ever.