how perfect are your boxes?

It all depends on the application for me.  My inwall speaker boxes for my home theater weren't as "perfect" as a box I would build that would be highly visible in a car.  If you are going to finish the box with carpet (or not finish it at all) accuracy (within reason) isn't a big deal.  If you are going to paint or vinyl the enclosure then things needs to line up a bit better.  For a 1/8" gap I would fill it with white glue and mix in some sawdust until it was a pretty thick consistency.  I would then seal the inside of the box with a construction adhesive (like liquid nails) although almost any adhesive that comes in a paper caulking tube should seal it well enough.Kevin Pierson

I learned a trick from a professional cabinet maker that works wonders when the wood seams are going to be visible (not covered in carpet). What you do is on the side that you will be able to see the edge of the board, cut that piece 1/4" larger than you want. When assembling the enclosure, make sure those pieces stick out further than the adjoining piece by 1/8". Then when you are done, take a flush trim router bit to those edges and you will end up with an edge that sits perfectly flush. Here is a picture of a project I did using this technique with solid oak:

Every single one of my enclosures is absolutely perfect.  At least it is after liberal use of wood putty and silicone sealant.  Support the12volt.com

Depends on the amount of fibreglass odours in the shop area.....Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

lol @ forbidden. My box is pretty damn perfect, it just seemed to be a little bit off after the application of glue (PL Premium.... this stuff is invincible) It's just the one baffle board that has a gap, but its a gap that PL Premium is capable of filling, and it should have no problem holding up to what a speaker can throw at it..... if you have ever used the stuff you will know what I mean. Steven: how did you do the angled pieces at the top of those boxes? how did you measure/mark/cut the angles etc ?

bigjohnny wrote: Steven: how did you do the angled pieces at the top of those boxes? how did you measure/mark/cut the angles etc ?

Well the top pieces I just cut with the saw blade set to 45 degrees. I knew how wide to cut them using the formula a^2+b^2=c^2. The front and back pieces didn't have to be perfect because of the flush router bit technique I mentioned earlier. But first I just marked the center of the board. I knew how high I wanted the tip, and I knew how low to start the cut at because it was half the width of the board. So I used a strait edge to mark my line and used a miter gauge set at 45 degrees to make my cuts. I'm wondering if anybody saw the noticeable mistake I made in those speakers.

forbidden wrote: Depends on the amount of fibreglass odours in the shop area.....

There must be a lot because your spelling all "Canadian" again adding all them extra vowels.

Yes, Steven, the grain runs the wrong way on the peak.  Nothing that some carpet can't fix...  Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

stevdart wrote: Yes, Steven, the grain runs the wrong way on the peak.  Nothing that some carpet can't fix...

Good eye. Unfortunately all my experience is with MDF where grain isn't something to take into account when making cuts. I was careful with all the long pieces, but ended up with my leftover wood forcing one of my top pieces to be cut with the grain the wrong way. I think some of Rob's resin fumes were affecting me.

...but beautiful speakers nonetheless.  And you said "fumes".  Didn't you mean to say "odouours"?Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.