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have i blown my amplifier?


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i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,716
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 18, 2008 at 12:46 AM / IP Logged  
You need to turn the key and the radio on and check voltage again. Black lead on ground terminal of amp. Red lead to power and then to remote. If there is 12 volts on both of these wires and the amp is not on, it has a problem. Depending on what kind of radio you have, some decks get amp turn on through the output IC. You took yours our. The remote wire of your deck may now be dead. If that is the case connect the amp turn on wire to the same wire that the red wire of the deck is connected to. This will turn the amp on anytime the key is on.
dragon51 
Copper - Posts: 283
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 22, 2005
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: October 18, 2008 at 3:56 AM / IP Logged  
I was running I fosgate he10 with a old fosgate power 500 bridged at 2 ohm when I froze the sub, when that happened it took out the amp and the RCA cables.
haemphyst 
Platinum - Posts: 5,059
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: October 18, 2008 at 10:42 PM / IP Logged  
dragon51 wrote:
I was running I fosgate he10 with a old fosgate power 500 bridged at 2 ohm when I froze the sub, when that happened it took out the amp and the RCA cables.
There was something ELSE wrong. Your description of what happened can't take out RCAs. If you "froze" the sub, you were overpowering it, period. It IS possible you somehow got a DC on the RCAs or you were running the deck into clipping, but it would have to happen from the signal end, overpowering a sub WON'T take out the RCAs.
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
ncchance 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: June 17, 2008
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: October 19, 2008 at 12:53 PM / IP Logged  

Well I did like you said. Apparently my Orion amplifier has become a pretty nice subwoofer anchor. lol, it keeps my subs from moving. I'm getting 12 volts at both the Power and Remote terminals without any response from the amplifier. I do feel like the remote wire from the deck is still working because my other amps are turning on. Actually,The remote wire from the deck goes to a relay and then the relay kicks my others amps on. I checked the relay for continuity and its checks out fine. Also, however fortunate it may or may not be, my subs aren't completely gone. I hooked them up to a JL amp again and this time they worked with sufficient response. I'm pretty sure they may need to be relaced, Either they're old or there is some damage to the voice coils. I really don't know what the gritty and sticking comes from when I push in on the sub...

...the way I took a blown amp from a buddy of mine, turned it over and sprayed the hell outta the voice coil with PB blaster. The sub works again! Not nearly as good as it did when it was new, but believe it or not it worked for this particular sub in this particular instance.

I sure appreciate all the help and insight ya'll have provided. I'm definitely going to spread the name of THE 12VOLT.COM!!!

"I've only gotten this far because I'm known for making every project 10x more difficult than it ever needed to be."
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,716
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 19, 2008 at 8:08 PM / IP Logged  
When checking the voltages, did you use the ground terminal of the amp for your ground reference?    If you are willing to do a little footwork, this should be a very easy repair.
ncchance 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: June 17, 2008
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: October 19, 2008 at 8:31 PM / IP Logged  

Oh yeah, I used the ground terminal at the amp like you instructed the other day. No more trunck latch testing from me. Thanks for the lesson on that by the way.

I'm absolutely willing to do a little footwork. I don't even mind doing a lot. I'm no stranger to work by any stretch of the imagination. I can only assume you are referring to repairing the blown trace on the amp? I'm ready to do whatever, whenever. Good looking out!

"I've only gotten this far because I'm known for making every project 10x more difficult than it ever needed to be."
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,716
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 19, 2008 at 9:14 PM / IP Logged  

You need to remove the amp from the vehicle and remove the cover so you can see the inside of the amp.  I do not remember which screws they used on that particular model.  I think you will need either a t-15 torx driver or a 7/64th allen wrench to remove the screws on each end of the amp.  You will need a 3/32nd allen wrench to remove the screw securing the RCA jack to the amp.  Leave the speaker and power plugs in the car.  Remove both fuses and carefully pull that end cover over the fuse holders and the 1/8 inch remote jack.  After you clear those things simply raise the cover and move it toward the other end so that it clears the RCA jacks.   Put the fuses back in and set your meter to the lowest ohm setting.  Touch and hold one meter lead to the power terminal of the amp.   Locate the transformer in the amp, it is the round thing with wires wrapped around it, there should be a couple different color wires and a couple different size wires on it.   The three legged things mounted to the heat sink, held down by the silver clamps are the transistors.  The ones located very near the transformer are the power supply transistors.  You need to touch the other lead to the center leg of one of these transistors.  You should be able to do this without touching the metal clamp.  If you can not do it without touching the clamp it is pretty easy to remove,  simply place a screwdriver in the slot on top of the clamp, there are 2 slots on each clamp.  With the screwdriver inserted in the slot, move the screwdriver gently toward the center of the amp, once that side comes out, do the same to the other slot in that clamp.  Grab the clamp and move it toward the center of the amp.  The clamp goes down below the board, you have to get the lower part of it above the board so you can get it out of the way.   Now touch the other meter lead to the middle leg of one of the transistors.  It should read a dead short.    If it reads near 0 ohms, the problem is possibly the ground trace.  Now touch and hold the meter lead to the ground terminal of the amp, touch the other lead to the right leg of the same transistor.  It too should read near 0 ohms.  Let me know what you find out.

DO NOT CONNECT THE AMP WITH THE CLAMP REMOVED.    to reinstall it simply work it back under the board and push the top of the clamp (with your hands) back over the ridge of the heat sink.  Make sure it is at the same level as the neighboring clamps.

ncchance 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: June 17, 2008
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: October 20, 2008 at 8:28 AM / IP Logged  
Awesome! I can't wait to give this a shot. The only problem I might have is with my meter. You mentioned setting it to the lowest Ohm setting. I have a Fluke multimeter, but I'm not sure it has that option on it. All I do is slide the selector switch and push one of four buttons. I'll run out to the car here in a little bit and grab it along with the user manual. Worst case scenario I'd have to wait until Thursday evening when I'm at my Uncle's house to get you the results. I know for fact that he has a top of the line, do everything but mow your lawn type of multimeter. I'll get back to you shortly...
"I've only gotten this far because I'm known for making every project 10x more difficult than it ever needed to be."
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,716
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 20, 2008 at 8:58 AM / IP Logged  
Your fluke meter is an auto-ranging meter.  Just set it to ohms
ncchance 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: June 17, 2008
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: October 20, 2008 at 9:16 AM / IP Logged  
Nice! I'll get on that after work. I should have results for you by 5:00.
"I've only gotten this far because I'm known for making every project 10x more difficult than it ever needed to be."
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